Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JHWilliams]

Does anyone have experience with Harrison’s P & B Universal bunch with the 20/21 ounce twill cloth?

 

[dieworkwear]

I know Marzoni is not the best of fabrics but I have used it in the past and my garments seem as durable with it as with anybody else. I am funding a new project and they have a pattern that I like. Does anybody have any strong opinions about their wool or wool blends?

I have a wool-silk-linen blend from them. I think it's fine.

 

[Sreezy36]

Does anyone have experience with Harrison’s P & B Universal bunch with the 20/21 ounce twill cloth?

thinking of an overcoat?

 

[JHWilliams]

thinking of an overcoat?

No way. English Drape 3 piece

 

[Sreezy36]

No way. English Drape 3 piece

?????????
Double breasted asymmetrical shawl collar waistcoat or bust.

 

[JHWilliams]

?????????
Double breasted asymmetrical shawl collar waistcoat or bust.

haven’t quite decided on the waistcoat just yet.

 

[Sreezy36]

Mas liabilities….

370g dugdale black barathea for a classic single breasted peak lapel DJ.

Ivory Dugdale new fine worsted Panama/plain weave for a double breasted tropical climate/warm weather dinner jacket. Still undecided on the lapels. If I go with a shawl collar, it will be used solely a dinner jacket. If I decide on peak lapels, it will serve as Dj and suit.

 

[JHWilliams]

Mas liabilities….

370g dugdale black barathea for a classic single breasted peak lapel DJ.

View attachment 1717794
Ivory Dugdale new fine worsted Panama/plain weave for a double breasted tropical climate/warm weather dinner jacket. Still undecided on the lapels. If I go with a shawl collar, it will be used solely a dinner jacket. If I decide on peak lapels, it will serve as Dj and suit.
View attachment 1717795

can’t go wrong with Dugdale Bros!!

 

[The Chai]

Mas liabilities….

370g dugdale black barathea for a classic single breasted peak lapel DJ.

View attachment 1717794
Ivory Dugdale new fine worsted Panama/plain weave for a double breasted tropical climate/warm weather dinner jacket. Still undecided on the lapels. If I go with a shawl collar, it will be used solely a dinner jacket. If I decide on peak lapels, it will serve as Dj and suit.
View attachment 1717795

Welcome to the dj train!

 

[The Chai]

can’t go wrong with Dugdale Bros!!

Not the biggest fans of their recent mohair offerings....but that's just me being a nitpicky mohair fan

 

[Sreezy36]

Welcome to the dj train!

Tbh, you and @dieworkwear gave me the idea of the versatile multi-use cream/ivory jacket. However, I’m just not sure if the new fine worsted is the right cloth for it. It might just work only as a Dj.. but that project is way down on the bespoke project que. I just couldn’t pass up on the deal that I received for that cloth.

 

[bernoulli]

Thank you. Your opinion is much appreciated. "Fine" is what I need from Marzoni at their price point.

I have a wool-silk-linen blend from them. I think it's fine.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you. Your opinion is much appreciated. "Fine" is what I need from Marzoni at their price point.

FWIW, I don't mean "fine" as in "mediocre." I would call Fox Bros fabric "fine." I mean fine as it "seems fine."

Can't remember how much I paid, but I think it was something like $200 or $250/ meter. I'm ok with the fabric for how much I paid.

 

[bernoulli]

Your message reminds me why I am all for price transparency. Here in Shanghai, Marzoni is at the bottom of the ladder, with some tailors charging less for a suit made with their fabric than for, say, VBC. If I want a bespoke suit, I will get a better price for any Marzoni fabric than for the typical Fresco by Hardy Minnis (which retails for 59GBP, according to their website). Hence, a meter will be much cheaper than U$200 (most likely, it will be around U$40-50). In the past, tailors have overcharged me by factors of 3 or 4 for certain fabrics just because I could not find pricing information for them online.

Price opacity can be quite harmful (I know I won't even touch many collections just because I won't have a clue about the price range). Mind you, I don't being overcharged, to some extent, because I am not as knowledgeable about the market as some other folk. But having one tailor telling me that Marzoni is an expensive exclusive fabric that I am lucky to get for a similar price than (and I exaggerate) Scabal, while another telling me that they don't bother with the brand, as they spend more on marketing than quality control? And having to ask about it in internet forums? It takes a lot of joy of commissioning a garment.

FWIW, I don't mean "fine" as in "mediocre." I would call Fox Bros fabric "fine." I mean fine as it "seems fine."

Can't remember how much I paid, but I think it was something like $200 or $250/ meter. I'm ok with the fabric for how much I paid.

 

[dieworkwear]

Your message reminds me why I am all for price transparency. Here in Shanghai, Marzoni is at the bottom of the ladder, with some tailors charging less for a suit made with their fabric than for, say, VBC. If I want a bespoke suit, I will get a better price for any Marzoni fabric than for the typical Fresco by Hardy Minnis (which retails for 59GBP, according to their website). Hence, a meter will be much cheaper than U$200 (most likely, it will be around U$40-50). In the past, tailors have overcharged me by factors of 3 or 4 for certain fabrics just because I could not find pricing information for them online.

Price opacity can be quite harmful (I know I won't even touch many collections just because I won't have a clue about the price range). Mind you, I don't being overcharged, to some extent, because I am not as knowledgeable about the market as some other folk. But having one tailor telling me that Marzoni is an expensive exclusive fabric that I am lucky to get for a similar price than (and I exaggerate) Scabal, while another telling me that they don't bother with the brand, as they spend more on marketing than quality control? And having to ask about it in internet forums? It takes a lot of joy of commissioning a garment.

I believe Marzoni is cheap in China because some of their fabrics are woven in China. I bought my fabric through a distributor and I don't get trade prices. For people who have to pay for import costs, are buying through a distributor, and not in the trade, it's not uncommon to pay $200/ meters for a length of non-cotton fabric.

British tailors typically include the cost of cloth in their price. Italians set things as CMT, and then add cost of cloth on top. I've noticed that some Italians mark up cloth a lot, but I think ultimately, I don't really mind. If I can save a few bucks by sourcing my own cloth, then I may do so. But if the tailor's work is good, I personally just figure out whether I want to pay whatever they charge given the outcome of the work.