Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

And Minnis, and several others. Dormeuil (Very expensive, perhaps for no reason)?

I recently located a dark blue sharkskin suit that was made over 20 years ago and barely worn. I think it came before business school, and between different locales, different jobs, and changes (ahem!) in size, I never got around to wearing it. Probably Golden Bale, and gorgeous! In my UK closet now, in case I find reasons to dress up in London without going as far as black tie.

 

[dieworkwear]

Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:

 

[kolecho]

Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


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Try Caccioppoli also. They have Irish linen and I find they understand colours better than English merchants.

 

[FlowableFill]

Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


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Solbiati art du lin?

 

[ZMEH]

Amazed at how difficult it is to find densely woven linen in the right weight (12/13oz) and in this color. Have looked at Spence Bryson, W. Bill, Minnis, and Mersolair. Just ordered swatches from Dugdale and Baird McNutt. Have I missed any other merchants or mills? Want something that has only the slightest touch of butter, like Alejandro Rey here:


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Hey Derek,

Perhaps the Oyster colour in Spence Bryson's Tropical in case you missed it? It appears light beige on their website but IRL it's the "yellowest" white linen I've seen amongst the usual suspect mills. Pictured middle one in between White and Light Grey. Hope this helps!

 

[dieworkwear]

Try Caccioppoli also. They have Irish linen and I find they understand colours better than English merchants.

Solbiati art du lin?

Hey Derek,

Perhaps the Oyster colour in Spence Bryson's Tropical in case you missed it? It appears light beige on their website but IRL it's the "yellowest" white linen I've seen amongst the usual suspect mills. Pictured middle one in between White and Light Grey. Hope this helps!

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Thanks, everyone! All of these are promising leads.

I must have missed that tropical linen from Spence Bryson. Do you know how to order a swatch of that in the United States?

 

[Wren]

Thanks, everyone! All of these are promising leads.

I must have missed that tropical linen from Spence Bryson. Do you know how to order a swatch of that in the United States?

The one from art du lin is not as yellow, more like whipped cream than thickened cream , even though it's still a nice colour.

Let us know when you find the right colour!

 

[kolecho]

Solbiati art du lin?

Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.

 

[FlowableFill]

Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.

I haven't. I saw this video from the Armoury and the cloth seemed nice, so I put it on my list. I'll definitely get a swatch of it before I pull the trigger. The Armoury made a suit out of it and they said it turned out good fwiw.

 

[ZRH1]

Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.

yes, I confirm. Definitely too light.

EDIT: this seems to be heavier than the W. Bill stuff as it is over 400gr. Am I wrong?

 

[Wren]

yes, I confirm. Definitely too light.

EDIT: this seems to be heavier than the W. Bill stuff as it is over 400gr. Am I wrong?

Have you tried them for trousers? I've always found Italian linens too soft and trousers bag after some use.

I think it is heavier. I saw a fellow customer in a pair of trousers made from the art du lin. It hangs very well. But it doesn't feel as robust as W.Bill despite the weight, so it's difficult to tell its durability.

 

[Krish the Fish]

Edit: got my hands on some. Thanks!

 

[The Chai]

Anyone ever had a dress shirt made with a raglan shoulder? Curious to test it out

 

[ericgereghty]

I have a suit in the Art du Lin. Have only worn it a few times, so can’t speak to bagging/durability thoughts, but the above is mostly correct. It is objectively heavy, but FEELS a good deal softer than the Irish ones of similar/slightly lighter weight. If Minnis/W Bill can be considered crisp, the Solbiati is probably best described as fluid.

 

[bernoulli]

I know Marzoni is not the best of fabrics but I have used it in the past and my garments seem as durable with it as with anybody else. I am funding a new project and they have a pattern that I like. Does anybody have any strong opinions about their wool or wool blends?