Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Aloysius16]

The Sherry Tweed has a larger scale and is softer than an Harris Tweed (and lighter). On the heavy side, Fox has a the same large herringbone pattern in black and white in its Tweed collection (500 gr).

The first pic is from WWChan isn't it?

yes, from Chan

 

[Marshak]

yes, from Chan

And it's Sherry Tweed. Would chose this path if I were after a lighter fabric with a tweed twist.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

The Sherry Tweed has a larger scale and is softer than an Harris Tweed (and lighter). On the heavy side, Fox has a the same large herringbone pattern in black and white (a bit darker than the H&S) in its Tweed collection (500 gr).

The first pic is from WWChan isn't it?

I do not have the said H&S swatch, I merely quoted what they used to write in their own site; I just re-checked and they still do, and it is not wide at 5/8 inch (1.6cm) unless our definition of width is different!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Marshak]

I do not have the said H&S swatch, I merely quoted what they used to write in their own site; I just re-checked and they still do, and it is not wide at 5/8 inch (1.6cm) unless our definition of width is different!

Best,

Dimitris

Dimitri,

As you can see on the WWChan jacket the scale is wider than a herringbone pattern used for suits and visually well balanced. Indeed all depends on what you understand by width. The next step would be an overcoat scale which, I think, would be off for a sport jacket.

 

[undertheskin]

i would rather opt for something like this in terms of width:

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dimitri,

As you can see on the WWChan jacket the scale is wider than a herringbone pattern used for suits and visually well balanced. Indeed all depends on what you understand by width. The next step would be an overcoat scale which, I think, would be off for a sport jacket.

Well, I do not want to de-rail the Thread, if our fellow @Aloysius16 is fond of the aesthetic of a final garment as the WWChan one (which is quite nice BTW), who am I to claim the opposite? This would be the obvious direction for him!

Just to remind you that during previous years there was a discussion in this very Thread about the "proper" herringbone width for a Sport Coat, which by definition it should be, and actually is always wider than the ones for suiting purposes. This does not mean, however, that this proposition (5/8 inch / 1.6cm) is a wide one!

Before going to overcoating fabrics' herringbone scale - that I personally neither select nor suggest for an SC - I believe that it would be far more becoming if the jacketing-scale herringbone could be approx. 2.5cm; in a wide neapolitan-style lapel (circa 10cm), one could observe 4 full herringbones instead of 6 in the WWChan SC, which BTW does have a slimmer lapel than that.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

i would rather opt for something like this in terms of width:


View attachment 1711767 View attachment 1711768

It would be really useful if we knew the actual width of the lapel; I have the impression, however, that this is an overcoating fabric, which makes it a no-go for me if this is a SC (the image is cropped so we cannot tell).

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[bernoulli]

Does anybody know if the source of the image is WW Chan Shanghai or HK? If Shanghai, I can pop in and ask the manager.

 

[Concordia]

Thinking about getting a brown suit and I'm between the two Standeven fabrics below. Wondering if I can get some feedback: do you prefer the darker brown with subtle mottling or the lighter brown with more mottling?



View attachment 1711555 View attachment 1711556



The lighter brown as a suit

I've never much liked 'brown' suits. The lighter one is a khaki derivative, and more flexible as a result.

 

[undertheskin]

It would be really useful if we knew the actual width of the lapel; I have the impression, however, that this is an overcoating fabric, which makes it a no-go for me if this is a SC (the image is cropped so we cannot tell).

Cheers,

Dimitris

should be from fox tweed bunch/500g.
my post was solely about the width.

 

[DavidLane]

Thinking about getting a brown suit and I'm between the two Standeven fabrics below. Wondering if I can get some feedback: do you prefer the darker brown with subtle mottling or the lighter brown with more mottling?



View attachment 1711555 View attachment 1711556



The lighter brown as a suit

I am leaning towards the darker brown one. It would be easier to wear to dinners/at night, and if you went with patch pockets, you could break it up and wear with light gray or mid gray trousers as a jacket. I think it would be pretty great with a black turtleneck and black tassels too.

-DL

 

[Marshak]

Well, I do not want to de-rail the Thread, if our fellow @Aloysius16 is fond of the aesthetic of a final garment as the WWChan one (which is quite nice BTW), who am I to claim the opposite? This would be the obvious direction for him!

Just to remind you that during previous years there was a discussion in this very Thread about the "proper" herringbone width for a Sport Coat, which by definition it should be, and actually is always wider than the ones for suiting purposes. This does not mean, however, that this proposition (5/8 inch / 1.6cm) is a wide one!

Before going to overcoating fabrics' herringbone scale - that I personally neither select nor suggest for an SC - I believe that it would be far more becoming if the jacketing-scale herringbone could be approx. 2.5cm; in a wide neapolitan-style lapel (circa 10cm), one could observe 4 full herringbones instead of 6 in the WWChan SC, which BTW does have a slimmer lapel than that.

Best,

Dimitris

Interesting discussion. Do you have an example of a pattern with a 2.5 cm width?

 

[sugarbutch]

I like both the dark and medium browns, so it really hinges on when you think you'd wear it.

 

[Mr. Six]

Butchy and David make good points about the brown suit fabrics. I had been thinking overall use, but the dark brown would be better for an evening out suit.

 

[Aloysius16]

It would be really useful if we knew the actual width of the lapel; I have the impression, however, that this is an overcoating fabric, which makes it a no-go for me if this is a SC (the image is cropped so we cannot tell).

Cheers,

Dimitris

thanks for the suggestions everyone. I do admire the larger scale cloth, but I would probably not choose it for this commission.