Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bespoke DJP]

I thought people usually say pure cotton is "better" than a mix with artificial fibres in corduroy? Assuming you mean cotton + lycra/elastane

I'm not much of a purist and I'm fine with fabrics that have a touch of elastane. I have a cotton suit made with something like 98% cotton and 2% elastane. Fabric is from Zegna. But the Loro Piana fabric is a cotton-cashmere mix. The touch of cashmere helps soften the fabric and gives it more of the properties of wool.

Ermenegildo Zegna corduroy is presently offered in two distinct categories:

1. 100% cotton at 300grams: this is a rather basic line, can be found in the winter cottons' bunch, I think it will produce a rather average result.

2. CashCo; the current bunch has three sub-lines:
a) approx. 290grams, 92% cotton, 7% cashmere, 1% elastane to provide some stretching to the garment,
b) approx. 340grams, 91% cotton, 8% cashmere, 1% elastane, and
c) approx. 340grams, 91% cotton, 9% cashmere.

Dear @Chronic_Zero,

The addition of cashmere in the mix makes all the difference, it offers real value to the fabric and a real premium to the cost; still, this is the one! You may thank me later.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[konstantis]

Konstanti (@konstantis) hi,

I hope that you do have swatches (or intend to order some) so as to have a real-life grasp not only of exact color tones, but also textures, hand of the fabrics!

Moreover, Brisbane Moss has the fabrics' weight expressed in square meters and not in linear meters, therefore a "medium-weight" fabric of stated 355 gm2 (as they cite) actually weights 518.3 grams per linear meter at a width of 146cm; not quite "medium" I may say.

I am most certain that our fellows here will suggest the "heavier-the-better", however we don't have the same climate and also global warming is here!

Best,

Dimitris

Thank you Dimitri . You are always extremely helpful. My biggest concern is if i should choose drill cotton or canvas. Thanks

 

[Marshak]

Ermenegildo Zegna corduroy is presently offered in two distinct categories:

1. 100% cotton at 300grams: this is a rather basic line, can be found in the winter cottons' bunch, I think it will produce a rather average result.

2. CashCo; the current bunch has three sub-lines:
a) approx. 290grams, 92% cotton, 7% cashmere, 1% elastane to provide some stretching to the garment,
b) approx. 340grams, 91% cotton, 8% cashmere, 1% elastane, and
c) approx. 340grams, 91% cotton, 9% cashmere.

Dear @Chronic_Zero,

The addition of cashmere in the mix makes all the difference, it offers real value to the fabric and a real premium to the cost; still, this is the one! You may thank me later.

Best,

Dimitris

How does this Cashco drape? You've intrigued me.

PS: heavier is better

 

[Alocin]

How does this Cashco drape? You've intrigued me.

PS: heavier is better

I can’t speak to these but I’ve had a pair of RTW Cashco Zegna trousers and they are like butter and on the heavier side. Though they don’t hold a crease too well. So I’ll let DJP speak to these iterations.

 

[lordsuperb]

I can’t speak to these but I’ve had a pair of RTW Cashco Zegna trousers and they are like butter and on the heavier side. Though they don’t hold a crease too well. So I’ll let DJP speak to these iterations.

 

[Alocin]

When I put them on I hear those snares in the back of my mind! Hahaha

 

[brax]

LP also had a great cotton/cashmere book of corduroy and cashmere mix called cotton time. As far as I can tell, it has been discontinued.

Is the Zegna the best alternative?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Gentlemen,

Re: EZ / LP corduroys

I now have two CashCo lengths, still unfunded, so no experience on how the garments would drape. As far as the subtleness of the colors, hand, overall quality of the fabric are concerned, one has to check them IRL to get an idea!

However, our fellow Dan (@dan'l) has complete bespoke garment(s), so perhaps he could share his experience (drape included) here.

Finally, Loro Piana still offers in the "Jackets and Trousers" bunch a corduroy line: 350grams, 88% cotton, 10% wool, 2% elastane, but no personal experience with them. The color palette is quite nice, and wool instead of cashmere offers a more economical alternative.

To conclude, if one would contemplate a casual suit, "Blazer-suit" or whatever of corduroy, I would suggest him to go big and choose the premium EZ CashCo fabric, especially if the LP equivalent is discontinued as our fellow @brax mentioned above; in the case of odd trousers, the LP cotton-wool fabrics seem a fine choice.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Marshak]

Dear Gentlemen,

Re: EZ / LP corduroys

I now have two CashCo lengths, still unfunded, so no experience on how the garments would drape. As far as the subtleness of the colors, hand, overall quality of the fabric are concerned, one has to check them IRL to get an idea!

However, our fellow Dan (@dan'l) has complete bespoke garment(s), so perhaps he could share his experience (drape included) here.

Finally, Loro Piana still offers in the "Jackets and Trousers" bunch a corduroy line: 350grams, 88% cotton, 10% wool, 2% elastane, but no personal experience with them. The color palette is quite nice, and wool instead of cashmere offers a more economical alternative.

To conclude, if one would contemplate a casual suit, "Blazer-suit" or whatever of corduroy, I would suggest him to go big and choose the premium EZ CashCo fabric, especially if the LP equivalent is discontinued as our fellow @brax mentioned above; in the case of odd trousers, the LP cotton-wool fabrics seem a fine choice.

Best,

Dimitris

I've investigated cotton/cashmere blends available on the market and sadly found almost nothing excepted this Cashco and an now defunct Caccioppoli reference with a decent weight of 450gr... Wool/cottons are a nice alternative indeed but the offer in a weight compatible with northern climates (above 400 gr) is non existent. Draper's/VBC Three Kings does contain these but too light to my tastes.

 

[Despos]

No one has mentioned the Scabal corduroys. 9% cashmere, 360 or 380 grams.
Great colors. The cotton corduroys have as much of a luxe hand as the cotton cashmere. Please report back when you discover the price or the up charge from your tailor.

 

[UrbanComposition]

No one has mentioned the Scabal corduroys. 9% cashmere, 360 or 380 grams.
Great colors. The cotton corduroys have as much of a luxe hand as the cotton cashmere. Please report back when you discover the price or the up charge from your tailor.
View attachment 1690396

Ooooh nice. I’ll have to ask about that.

 

[dan'l]

Dear Gentlemen,

Re: EZ / LP corduroys

I now have two CashCo lengths, still unfunded, so no experience on how the garments would drape. As far as the subtleness of the colors, hand, overall quality of the fabric are concerned, one has to check them IRL to get an idea!

However, our fellow Dan (@dan'l) has complete bespoke garment(s), so perhaps he could share his experience (drape included) here.

Finally, Loro Piana still offers in the "Jackets and Trousers" bunch a corduroy line: 350grams, 88% cotton, 10% wool, 2% elastane, but no personal experience with them. The color palette is quite nice, and wool instead of cashmere offers a more economical alternative.

To conclude, if one would contemplate a casual suit, "Blazer-suit" or whatever of corduroy, I would suggest him to go big and choose the premium EZ CashCo fabric, especially if the LP equivalent is discontinued as our fellow @brax mentioned above; in the case of odd trousers, the LP cotton-wool fabrics seem a fine choice.

Best,

Dimitris

Good memory! Indeed I have a suit made up in CashCo, before Zegna re-released the collection. The fabric is very soft and it is comfortable to wear. I do not have experience with 100% cord suits so cannot make a direct comparison, but I would certainly consider getting another one made from CashCo. I will say that the trousers do not hold a crease nearly as well as wool; one will have to live with that.

 

[Wren]

I have a pair of trousers in a discontinued Dugdale corduroy that contains a small amount of elastane. It drapes well and has a tiny bit of stretch, making it quite comfortable to wear. If it is still available, I wouldn't mind having more trousers made out of the fabric.

Thanks @dieworkwear, that's useful. The longevity of flannel was a concern as my trousers seem to wear out a lot at the crotch. I'd be plenty satisfied if they last half of your 8 years!

I thought people usually say pure cotton is "better" than a mix with artificial fibres in corduroy? Assuming you mean cotton + lycra/elastane

 

[CorozoButton]

Came across a swatch whilst looking for a transitional earth-tone jacket cloth. It's definitely not at all what I set out looking for or had in mind. 300g, 90% Wool/10% Cashmere, ideally for early spring and fall, and also when the London summer decides it doesn't want to play nicely. Only managed to find one example of it made up and I'd appreciate some other opinions. Please ignore the lapel pin/pocket square in the garment pictures.

 

[Concordia]

Hmmm... looks a bit designer-ish, unless it is amazingly well made. Would a lighter-weight Shetland serve the same purpose only better?