Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

Recently Simon Crompton released a cashmere plaid reminiscent of RL and it got me thinking I would like a very tonal and subtle plaid. His was just a bit too bright/bold for me, but are there any other books out there that are similar?

For reference, I really like this one below, not the styling, but the cloth on the coat which is an older RLPL:
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-DL

I really liked it, but it was just a touch too much contrast for me, and I would prefer a non cashmere cloth. Unless it’s purple of course.

-DL

Bateman & Ogden - Grey/brown large check

Bateman & Ogden, merchants of Suiting Cloth

www.batemanogden.co.uk

 

[Despos]

Does anyone have any trouser fabric recommendations to go with this sport coat?
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looking for something drop Drapers, Loro Piana, or VBC…or something that I purchase myself

Taupe is a good choice. Not far from a taupe color is ”donkey” but is usually only found in flannel. Oatmeal was a good shade too. Think NMWA had these RTW.

 

[Concordia]

Those pillows are heavy!!!!

Just stole Thanksgiving dinner.

 

[ChasingStyle]

All right kids, now that you’ve gotten that out of your system, any advise on the brown chalkstripe?

 

[Simon A]

All right kids, now that you’ve gotten that out of your system, any advise on the brown chalkstripe?

The P&B Universal book from Harrisons has a 465g brown chalkstripe worsted.

 

[artyom.le.gall]

While I doubt I'd go full-on "5-10 for B&E orange" like the swatch, this 500g 63/37 linen/cotton corduroy by LP Solbiati is pretty intriguing.

As a texture whore, I think it could look really cool in a relaxed, rumpled way (particularly after extended wear). But from a practicality perspective, I'm unsure what linen-based corduroy provides. Living in the SE United States, maybe it's a unique alternative to more substantial, cashmere-mixed cords for warmer climates? Unsure how noticeable the difference would even be.

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Do you happen to know a Solobiati online catalogue ? Where to buy ? Not too many tailors have them..

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Do you happen to know a Solobiati online catalogue ? Where to buy ? Not too many tailors have them..

As far as your first question, this is the only known-to-me online source with images (along with codes) of Solbiati fabrics:

Solbiati Fabrics — Hall Madden

Solbiati fabric swatches from Dresano Pegaso Linen, Art Du Lin, Zefiro seersucker, Gabardilia cotton, Winter corduroy and moleskin cotton, Lima wool and Nobel linen collections. All available for custom suits, custom tuxedos, custom trousers, custom blazers in made-to-measure and bespoke from Hall M

hallmadden.com

As far as your second question, my cloth suppliers in Greece are the LP group's (which includes Solbiati) fabrics' division official representatives for Greece. Should you need a contact, just PM me.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[paborden]

Anyone know if the attached cloth is still to be found in the Holland and Sherry line? It had previously been in Pardessus under the following reference and I have a suspicion it moved over to the classic overcoating bunch but H&S USA doesn't know if it is the same.

 

[Chronic_Zero]

Does anyone have experience with Huddersfields flannels and corduroy?

I am considering getting some lengths of the following for winter trousers:

- 510032 mid grey flannel, 450-470g
- 9289 brown 465g, 100% cotton corduroy
- 9286 black 465g, 100% cotton corduroy

they seem good in terms of colour and weight and at a decent price, but wanted to check with more experienced users to avoid surprises (ie. they are known to have a terrible drape)

 

[dieworkwear]

Does anyone have experience with Huddersfields flannels and corduroy?

I am considering getting some lengths of the following for winter trousers:

- 510032 mid grey flannel, 450-470g
- 9289 brown 465g, 100% cotton corduroy
- 9286 black 465g, 100% cotton corduroy

they seem good in terms of colour and weight and at a decent price, but wanted to check with more experienced users to avoid surprises (ie. they are known to have a terrible drape)

Have a pair of Minnis flannel trousers that are about seven or eight years old. I think they're OK. At least, I don't have any complaints about them.

I also have a Hunt and Winterbotham cord suit. I think that's who makes HFW's cord? I like it, but wish I went with a cotton-blend, such as Loro Piana's Cotton Time.

 

[Chronic_Zero]

Thanks @dieworkwear, that's useful. The longevity of flannel was a concern as my trousers seem to wear out a lot at the crotch. I'd be plenty satisfied if they last half of your 8 years!

I thought people usually say pure cotton is "better" than a mix with artificial fibres in corduroy? Assuming you mean cotton + lycra/elastane

 

[camez_]

Looking for a worsted or similar suiting in a chocolate chalkstripe. Any ideas?


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alfred brown has something similar

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks @dieworkwear, that's useful. The longevity of flannel was a concern as my trousers seem to wear out a lot at the crotch. I'd be plenty satisfied if they last half of your 8 years!

I thought people usually say pure cotton is "better" than a mix with artificial fibres in corduroy? Assuming you mean cotton + lycra/elastane

I'm not much of a purist and I'm fine with fabrics that have a touch of elastane. I have a cotton suit made with something like 98% cotton and 2% elastane. Fabric is from Zegna. But the Loro Piana fabric is a cotton-cashmere mix. The touch of cashmere helps soften the fabric and gives it more of the properties of wool. While I like my corduroy suit, it's a bit stiff, as cotton suits tend to be. I think when you add a touch of wool, the garment drapes and moves better.

 

[konstantis]

Hi to all the members . I am thinking of making some khakis trousers for casual wear for the fall winter. I am thinking of buying the fabrics from Brisbane Moss. Could anyone advise me if i should prefer the canvas collections , cottons drills or the mid-heavyweight twill ? Thanks.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Konstanti (@konstantis) hi,

I hope that you do have swatches (or intend to order some) so as to have a real-life grasp not only of exact color tones, but also textures, hand of the fabrics!

Moreover, Brisbane Moss has the fabrics' weight expressed in square meters and not in linear meters, therefore a "medium-weight" fabric of stated 355 gm2 (as they cite) actually weights 518.3 grams per linear meter at a width of 146cm; not quite "medium" I may say.

I am most certain that our fellows here will suggest the "heavier-the-better", however we don't have the same climate and also global warming is here!

Best,

Dimitris