Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Shetterd]

You're too much of an academic to pretend like you don't know the history of these names and fabrics.

Jokes aside, between this and the Invincible, I think it's kind of cool that Dugdale is giving a little nod to the martial origins of CM materials and styles. I hope they have a POW in there named after the HMS Prince of Wales for example. Or some sort of tartan/check for the HMS Duke of Edinburgh. How about the HMS Indefatigable, a high twist, no wrinkle travel worsted? HMS Dauntless, an 18oz tweed that will repel wind, rain, sleet, snow, and, if made into a 3-piece suit on an SF CM purist, potential romantic partners and employers.

I can do this all day but you get the idea. If the sun never set on the British Empire, it's probably 60% because Royal Navy vessels have the best names.

Far be it from me to argue with an enthusiast, but while I have heard of the Invincible-Class Cruisers I have never heard the name Fearnaught. Dreadnought, on the other hand, is of course a familiar term in a naval context.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Far be it from me to argue with an enthusiast, but while I have heard of the Invincible-Class Cruisers I have never heard the name Fearnaught. Dreadnought, on the other hand, is of course a familiar term in a naval context.

Alas there's no HMS Fearnaught; I just like the Victorian/Edwardian ring to it. That said, it was originally a thick fabric that could be used as overcoats. I always understood it to be similar to melton or duffle, and the association with the Royal Navy came from when they were issued to sailors, like the USN's Sterlingware peacoats.

 

[konstantis]

Hi to all the members ? Does anyone knows where to find Brisbane Moss fabrics ? I have send them several emails to ask them if they sell to individuals , but never got an answer back . I am searching for quality canvas fabrics suitable for trousoures . Any other reccomendations are welcome. Thanks.

 

[konstantis]

they only sell b2b

you can dm me

Thank you . I have already sended a DM to you.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Anyone have experience with Lumbs Golden Bale? I think I remember @Despos saying it tailors well? I'm not sure what exactly this is (twill?) but it looks especially nice.

H LESSER LUMBS GOLDEN BALE/ALL WOOL - Harrisons

400gm 13oz 150cm wide 100% Pure Lumbs Golden Bale

www.harrisons1863.com

Also, does anyone know if Porter & Harding's thornproof holds a crease well? I seem to remember that some of their dense tweeds might. Here's a brown donegal in a lighter and heavier weight.

P&H THORNPROOF ALL WOOL - Harrisons

560gm 18oz All Pure Wool MOQ 60

www.harrisons1863.com

P&H THORNPROOF ALL WOOL - Harrisons

390gm 12/13oz All Pure Wool

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[ValidusLA]

Anyone have experience with Lumbs Golden Bale? I think I remember @Despos saying it tailors well? I'm not sure what exactly this is (twill?) but it looks especially nice.

H LESSER LUMBS GOLDEN BALE/ALL WOOL - Harrisons

400gm 13oz 150cm wide 100% Pure Lumbs Golden Bale

www.harrisons1863.com

Also, does anyone know if Porter & Harding's thornproof holds a crease well? I seem to remember that some of their dense tweeds might. Here's a brown donegal in a lighter and heavier weight.

P&H THORNPROOF ALL WOOL - Harrisons

560gm 18oz All Pure Wool MOQ 60

www.harrisons1863.com

P&H THORNPROOF ALL WOOL - Harrisons

390gm 12/13oz All Pure Wool

www.harrisons1863.com

I have a jacket made out of LGB that I picked up at Tip Top whole passing through Brooklyn a few years back.

It's a dark green donegal that I thought tailored out quite well and drapes great.

Unfortunately it was probably from an old bunch, so not sure I can offer tons of advice, but I like the cloth and so did my tailor.

 

[JHWilliams]

Anyone have experience with Lumbs Golden Bale? I think I remember @Despos saying it tailors well? I'm not sure what exactly this is (twill?) but it looks especially nice.

H LESSER LUMBS GOLDEN BALE/ALL WOOL - Harrisons

400gm 13oz 150cm wide 100% Pure Lumbs Golden Bale

www.harrisons1863.com

Also, does anyone know if Porter & Harding's thornproof holds a crease well? I seem to remember that some of their dense tweeds might. Here's a brown donegal in a lighter and heavier weight.

P&H THORNPROOF ALL WOOL - Harrisons

560gm 18oz All Pure Wool MOQ 60

www.harrisons1863.com

P&H THORNPROOF ALL WOOL - Harrisons

390gm 12/13oz All Pure Wool

www.harrisons1863.com

according to my tailor: Lumb’s Golden Bale survives “in name only”. The same may be said for H. Lesser.

his advice: if you are able to find a vintage length of LGB or H. Lesser prior to merger :grab it!!

 

[UrbanComposition]

Here are the tweeds I'm thinking of for suiting:

I like the darker color but I'm afraid it may run too warm (in tone) for my tastes. Then again, it could be awesome.

 

[Despos]

Here are the tweeds I'm thinking of for suiting:
View attachment 1676705
View attachment 1676706

I like the darker color but I'm afraid it may run too warm (in tone) for my tastes. Then again, it could be awesome.

Couple decades ago made up a brown tweed double breasted suit for myself.
Color was a mix of the two shades in your post.
Less saturated red tones of the lower picture and less gold tones as the first swatch.
It was a hard worsted tweed from Wain Shiell, suitable as a suiting.

Think the darker of the two here would be easier to match trousers. Put trousers you have with the swatches and it will be clear which one to pick.
Better to match what goes with or works with a cloth before making it.

If you still can't decide, get a deep dark green tweed

 

[bertie]

Here are the tweeds I'm thinking of for suiting:
View attachment 1676705
View attachment 1676706

I like the darker color but I'm afraid it may run too warm (in tone) for my tastes. Then again, it could be awesome.

I have a three piece of a very similar donegal to the first one. Agree that darker is more versatile in terms of colour matching - but the lighter version has a different vibe that seems quite versatile (from Board room to walk in the park)

 

[Despos]

@UrbanComposition

reading your post again; you are ordering a suit so my comment to use trouser cloth to help decide is irrelevant.

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Couple decades ago made up a brown tweed double breasted suit for myself.
Color was a mix of the two shades in your post.
Less saturated red tones of the lower picture and less gold tones as the first swatch.
It was a hard worsted tweed from Wain Shiell, suitable as a suiting.

Think the darker of the two here would be easier to match trousers. Put trousers you have with the swatches and it will be clear which one to pick.
Better to match what goes with or works with a cloth before making it.

If you still can't decide, get a deep dark green tweed

@Despos I’m curious .. deep green was my intuition for my ever 1st tweed jacket..but eventually I was persuaded to let go. Is this a rule of thumb ?

 

[Despos]

@Despos I’m curious .. deep green was my intuition for my ever 1st tweed jacket..but eventually I was persuaded to let go. Is this a rule of thumb ?

@artyom.le.gall
A suggestion, not a rule.
What persuaded you to not get green?

 

[artyom.le.gall]

@artyom.le.gall
A suggestion, not a rule.
What persuaded you to not get green?

This is my 1st bespoke commission. I came with this green in mind after reviweing at least half a dozen cloths. The tailor I decided to work with convinced me grey may work better with my face/skin tone complexion, and while both are PoW the grey had unique decor which added interest. That said, in literally a last moment change of heart i landed on fudge/oatmeal/brown soft tweed herringbone. IMHO the green PoW & Fudge Herringbone are on similar modest “dandines” where the grey PoW with decor felt too much, though truly Magnificat, for 1st commission. I may still do the grey or green if they’ll be available and I do hope the lighter fudge won’t be a limitation on color matching on trousers.. live & learn ..))

 

[JohnMRobie]

After years of buying RTW I’ve been dipping my toes in having some things made.

Starting to think of commissioning a fall/winter suit. It will be Neapolitan so my first instinct is something on the softer side of things - cashmere, flannel, etc.

I figured if anyone would have suggestions on mills/books I should take a look at or where to start it would be you guys. Any suggestions?