Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bernoulli]

Of course, but do you have a ballpark comparison? More expensive, somewhat similar, cheaper? There is no point in even getting a quote from my tailor if the fabric is going to be much more expensive than the Fresco.

Probably depends as much on local distribution channels as anything else.

 

[Despos]

Just a note on the Finmeresco-- there are several qualities in that book. I started with the 4-ply, and while it isn't bad, it is a bit too spongy for what I'd want now. The 3-ply stands up quite well, and seems to have more of a skeleton, even if it is much more civilized than the 3-ply Fresco. I have one from WW Chan that is showing no real signs of age.

As a more recent addition, there is a 10-oz "high twist" subset in the book that looks like a very fine tropical but performs much better. If you want something really elegant for steamy weather, that would be my first stop.

The subset 10 ounce HighTwist, SW4133-SW4138 has always been in the Finmeresco book. Before this it was a Scabal cloth. They no longer have it. It is the only High Twist cloth in the book. Fresco is not a high twist cloth.
It's the only reason I use the Finmeresco book. It is the best warm weather cloth IMO. Been using it over 20 years. Only downside is the limited color range.
If I want fresco like cloth I prefer Ascot.

Bateman Ogden has a fresco derivative book called "The English Endurance Suit" Cloth feels good but looks very pedestrian.

Harrisons Mystique, 8/9 ounce has a great hand. Looks promising and is much softer than their Frontier cloth which I find too stiff to be comfortable.

Standeven Explorer has an 8 ounce cloth along with the 8 to 11 ounce high twist range.

 

[Despos]

Of course, but do you have a ballpark comparison? More expensive, somewhat similar, cheaper? There is no point in even getting a quote from my tailor if the fabric is going to be much more expensive than the Fresco.

You should price this with your tailor. Some tailors get special pricing and it's better than what you can get on your own. The country you are in makes a difference.

 

[Mr. Six]

If you want a very smooth lightweight fabric, take a look at the Cacciopoli Sun Dreams book. 15% silk, but it breathes and drapes well and doesn't get overly wrinkly. (It was a gdl find that No Man ran with Formosa, so I can't take credit.)

 

[bourbonbasted]

While I doubt I'd go full-on "5-10 for B&E orange" like the swatch, this 500g 63/37 linen/cotton corduroy by LP Solbiati is pretty intriguing.

As a texture whore, I think it could look really cool in a relaxed, rumpled way (particularly after extended wear). But from a practicality perspective, I'm unsure what linen-based corduroy provides. Living in the SE United States, maybe it's a unique alternative to more substantial, cashmere-mixed cords for warmer climates? Unsure how noticeable the difference would even be.

 

[Franco Ocarez]

Anyone want a blazer with stripes? 85 dollars for the whole piece.

Blazer Stripes from Holland and Sherry

Hello, From Chile, I am selling this fabric from the book Blazer Stripes by Holland and Sherry. They are vertical lines of orange and navy blue. Its composition is 70% Wool Worsted Super 120'S and 30% Teclana. Perfect for a summer blazer with...

www.styleforum.net

 

[konstantis]

Hi to all the members . Has anyone ever used the Somerset tweed colletion by Fox? Any opinions please ? Thanks.

 

[zr3rs]

Hi to all the members . Has anyone ever used the Somerset tweed colletion by Fox? Any opinions please ? Thanks.

Have not used it, but handled samples. The hand is not tweedy at all, very soft and light, more like knitwear. Should pair well with soft tailoring if that is what you are after. For more solid structure, you would look at the new Sports Jacketing bunch (heavier and more durable, but still soft hand) or Fox Tweed (still heavier and somewhat rougher hand, but less than other Tweeds).

 

[konstantis]

Have not used it, but handled samples. The hand is not tweedy at all, very soft and light, more like knitwear. Should pair well with soft tailoring if that is what you are after. For more solid structure, you would look at the new Sports Jacketing bunch (heavier and more durable, but still soft hand) or Fox Tweed (still heavier and somewhat rougher hand, but less than other Tweeds).

Thank you for your reply. I have have already a jacket by Fox Tweed , which I love it. I am searching for something lighter as I am living in Greece. My doubts about Somerset is that it would be too delicate and not tweedy at all you have already mentioned.

 

[zr3rs]

Thank you for your reply. I have have already a jacket by Fox Tweed , which I love it. I am searching for something lighter as I am living in Greece. My doubts about Somerset is that it would be too delicate and not tweedy at all you have already mentioned.

I do not think that Somerset Jacketing is delicate, but if you want to have something tweedy but lighter, I can recommend SherryTweed by Holland&Sherry.

 

[bernoulli]

I don't trust my tailor with pricing. China is weird like that. I am really happy with everything else, but price opaqueness is a significant burden here. I don't mind overpaying a bit to avoid haggling. But it would be extremely helpful to know just if Fresco is usually more or less expensive than this other cool-looking fabric.

You should price this with your tailor. Some tailors get special pricing and it's better than what you can get on your own. The country you are in makes a difference.

 

[ericgereghty]

I don't trust my tailor with pricing. China is weird like that. I am really happy with everything else, but price opaqueness is a significant burden here. I don't mind overpaying a bit to avoid haggling. But it would be extremely helpful to know just if Fresco is usually more or less expensive than this other cool-looking fabric.

Tailoring oddities aside, I think, at least when speaking retail rates, you can bank on Minnis being a decent bit cheaper than others. Fox is an extreme outlier, though that is priced to dissuade retail buyers, I do believe. They're drastically more expensive.
On the whole, unless there is some real fuckery afoot with your tailor's prices, the difference, going strictly off retail, should not be enough to force your hand one way or the other. Get what most appeals to you.

 

[Concordia]

While I doubt I'd go full-on "5-10 for B&E orange" like the swatch, this 500g 63/37 linen/cotton corduroy by LP Solbiati is pretty intriguing.

As a texture whore, I think it could look really cool in a relaxed, rumpled way (particularly after extended wear). But from a practicality perspective, I'm unsure what linen-based corduroy provides. Living in the SE United States, maybe it's a unique alternative to more substantial, cashmere-mixed cords for warmer climates? Unsure how noticeable the difference would even be.

View attachment 1673221

The denim in the second collection (esp grey) seems to have some real promise.

 

[Mr. Pink]

Does anyone (@Despos maybe) have views on the quality of the current Lessers 13 oz book? I like the color of their plain navy cloths better than any others I've seen, but I seem to recall some griping about post-acquisition quality.

 

[Concordia]

I just pulled a pre-merger suit out of storage today-- I don't know if quality has fallen much, but it did have a long way to fall.