Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[kolecho]

Looking for a standard navy summer suiting cloth circa 300g.

I usually go for high twist open weave but lately I find them kinda scratchy.

Are there other options that are less scratchy but similarly breathable? Open to other high twist or tropical worsted.

Does anyone have experience with Dormeuil’s Tonik Wool? It’s a newish high twist open weave bunch circa 300g.

 

[WhereNext]

Looking for a standard navy summer suiting cloth circa 300g.

I usually go for high twist open weave but lately I find them kinda scratchy.

Are there other options that are less scratchy but similarly breathable? Open to other high twist or tropical worsted.

Does anyone have experience with Dormeuil’s Tonik Wool? It’s a newish high twist open weave bunch circa 300g.

Perhaps you've already tried these, but Fox has a couple of high twist/open weave fabrics on the go right now (City, Journey, Tropical Worsted, Golden Fox which is only about 250g) that might fit the bill. I have a quarter lined jacket in the Tropical Worsted that is quite open and the right weight; I find it to be softer and less scratchy than my Fresco stuff. The City swatches I've gotten also feel less scratchy than Fresco, but I haven't had anything made up in it.

 

[circumspice]

Yep, I was about to put Fox out there. I am traveling right now, so I don't recall which books other than City I had some samples come in from, but they all seemed reasonable in feel

 

[Concordia]

Harrison's Frontier is a good fall-back for 10oz suits.

 

[Mr. Pink]

Harrison's Spring Ram is my new favorite. It's a bit heavier but quite open and wears about as cool as any of the usual suspects but drapes and resists wrinkles better.

 

[kolecho]

Anyone use Dugdale Tropicalair? Wondering how it compares to Minnis Fresco.

 

[DavidLane]

Anyone use Dugdale Tropicalair? Wondering how it compares to Minnis Fresco.

I have the Dugdale book and I would put it on par with Minnis. I do not have anything made up in it (Tropicalair) but seems stout based on the swatches. Still a bit crunchy and scratchy like the Minnis.

-DL

 

[Concordia]

Harrison's Spring Ram is my new favorite. It's a bit heavier but quite open and wears about as cool as any of the usual suspects but drapes and resists wrinkles better.

Pretty awesome, if that is what you need. Would make a fantasic 3-season business suit. Drapes well enough to last the day, and breathes well enough for overheated conference rooms.

 

[ZRH1]

Harrison's Spring Ram is my new favorite. It's a bit heavier but quite open and wears about as cool as any of the usual suspects but drapes and resists wrinkles better.

same here, heavier than Fresco but drapes exceptionally well.

 

[Noirkw]

Looking for a standard navy summer suiting cloth circa 300g.

I usually go for high twist open weave but lately I find them kinda scratchy.

Are there other options that are less scratchy but similarly breathable? Open to other high twist or tropical worsted.

Does anyone have experience with Dormeuil’s Tonik Wool? It’s a newish high twist open weave bunch circa 300g.

I live in the tropics and here are my tropical / high twist options

Dormeuil : Tropical Amadeus. Wont go wrong
VBC : 21 micron / 4 ply - very open and breathable. Not very scratchy. 21 micron tropical is ~280g while the 4 ply is 410g. Both works
Minnis : Fresco Light / Fresco Select - I have the 2 ply and the heavyweight 3 ply. Both works
H&S : Airesco 3-ply - good weight and not very scratchy
Harrisons : SW Finmeresco - superb. not as scratchy

There's a new range of 4-ply from MB's ponte vecchio bunch. Which is rebranded VBC. However, their 4 plys are not as scratchy. They have a hopsack range. Which is beautiful. You may want to take a look. https://www.merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=168_566_657

 

[Sreezy36]

Harrison's Spring Ram is my new favorite. It's a bit heavier but quite open and wears about as cool as any of the usual suspects but drapes and resists wrinkles better.

via Michael Browne. Fabric seems to have excellent texture. Almost like a high twist flannel

 

[Fishball]

Looking for a standard navy summer suiting cloth circa 300g.

I usually go for high twist open weave but lately I find them kinda scratchy.

Are there other options that are less scratchy but similarly breathable? Open to other high twist or tropical worsted.

Does anyone have experience with Dormeuil’s Tonik Wool? It’s a newish high twist open weave bunch circa 300g.

I thought you tried them all already
How come you suddenly find them scratchy after that many years of use?

 

[Concordia]

I live in the tropics and here are my tropical / high twist options

Dormeuil : Tropical Amadeus. Wont go wrong
VBC : 21 micron / 4 ply - very open and breathable. Not very scratchy. 21 micron tropical is ~280g while the 4 ply is 410g. Both works
Minnis : Fresco Light / Fresco Select - I have the 2 ply and the heavyweight 3 ply. Both works
H&S : Airesco 3-ply - good weight and not very scratchy
Harrisons : SW Finmeresco - superb. not as scratchy

There's a new range of 4-ply from MB's ponte vecchio bunch. Which is rebranded VBC. However, their 4 plys are not as scratchy. They have a hopsack range. Which is beautiful. You may want to take a look. https://www.merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=168_566_657

Just a note on the Finmeresco-- there are several qualities in that book. I started with the 4-ply, and while it isn't bad, it is a bit too spongy for what I'd want now. The 3-ply stands up quite well, and seems to have more of a skeleton, even if it is much more civilized than the 3-ply Fresco. I have one from WW Chan that is showing no real signs of age.

As a more recent addition, there is a 10-oz "high twist" subset in the book that looks like a very fine tropical but performs much better. If you want something really elegant for steamy weather, that would be my first stop.

 

[bernoulli]

Is the price of the Finmeresco comparable to Hardy Minnis Fresco? By now, I know what to expect when ordering a suit with the latter but have never tried Finmeresco.

Just a note on the Finmeresco-- there are several qualities in that book. I started with the 4-ply, and while it isn't bad, it is a bit too spongy for what I'd want now. The 3-ply stands up quite well, and seems to have more of a skeleton, even if it is much more civilized than the 3-ply Fresco. I have one from WW Chan that is showing no real signs of age.

As a more recent addition, there is a 10-oz "high twist" subset in the book that looks like a very fine tropical but performs much better. If you want something really elegant for steamy weather, that would be my first stop.

 

[Concordia]

Probably depends as much on local distribution channels as anything else.