Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]

Can you please share your opinion on the teclana suit? Would you get another one?
Thank you,

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My suit ended up being too lightweight for my taste (I think the cloth was around 8 or 9oz), so I ended getting rid of it. My experience with that cloth is probably more colored by the weight than the fiber. The poster above you is selling something different from what I owned, so this is not a comment on his sale.

I personally didn't find it to wear significantly cooler than high twist tropical wools, but I live in an area where the weather rarely gets above 85 degrees (and when it does, I just don't wear tailored clothing). It does have a slight sheen, however, so be aware.

 

[Franco Ocarez]

Does anyone know what kind of fabric this is?

 

[dieworkwear]

Does anyone have suggestions for a hairline tweed that can be used for a suit?

I looked through Glorious Twelfth and Worsted Alsport 2. The top swatch is the right color (mid-brown), but has a light blue and purple overcheck. Not against overcheck, but would prefer more rustic colors. The second swatch, Worsted Alsport is a bit more yellow than I prefer.

Hoping to find something like this. Will tells me these are from Worsted Alpsport and Glorious Twelfth, but they were woven so long ago, it seems the designs are now gone.

Saw this from Fox, but it feels slightly more "modern." Curious if there are any other options

 

[Concordia]

Dugdale might have a few things like that. Not actual tweeds, but a bit more rustic than the usual worsteds.

 

[oscarthewild]

My suit ended up being too lightweight for my taste (I think the cloth was around 8 or 9oz), so I ended getting rid of it. My experience with that cloth is probably more colored by the weight than the fiber. The poster above you is selling something different from what I owned, so this is not a comment on his sale.

I personally didn't find it to wear significantly cooler than high twist tropical wools, but I live in an area where the weather rarely gets above 85 degrees (and when it does, I just don't wear tailored clothing). It does have a slight sheen, however, so be aware.

Thank you

 

[JHWilliams]

Does anyone have suggestions for a hairline tweed that can be used for a suit?

I looked through Glorious Twelfth and Worsted Alsport 2. The top swatch is the right color (mid-brown), but has a light blue and purple overcheck. Not against overcheck, but would prefer more rustic colors. The second swatch, Worsted Alsport is a bit more yellow than I prefer.



View attachment 1647313




Hoping to find something like this. Will tells me these are from Worsted Alpsport and Glorious Twelfth, but they were woven so long ago, it seems the designs are now gone.


View attachment 1647316 View attachment 1647314 View attachment 1647317



Saw this from Fox, but it feels slightly more "modern." Curious if there are any other options


View attachment 1647320

I would take a look at heritage twist by standeven. I seem to remember some hairline cloths in the bunch

 

[Despos]

I would take a look at heritage twist by standeven. I seem to remember some hairline cloths in the bunch

That’s the book I was thinking of. Would like to try that cloth for myself.

 

[JHWilliams]

That’s the book I was thinking of. Would like to try that cloth for myself.

I have a few samples. The cloth is beautiful and bulletproof.

 

[Hoogstraten]

Did they find the flaw before or after cutting the cloth? Did they try to cut around the flawed area?

Whoops, sorry! Did not see your reply!
Before, cutting around wasn't possible. They laid out the stencils as tight as possible, no wiggle room at all.

 

[Concordia]

That’s the book I was thinking of. Would like to try that cloth for myself.

On here or LL, Shattuck slammed that book (IIRC-- don't take that to court).

My first glance at it, when it was under a different brand label, was a little unfavorable but mostly for the patterns, which seemed to be too much quasi-Reid &Taylor. I am coming around on that part, but I have no informed guess on its tailoring usefulness or durability.

 

[Despos]

On here or LL, Shattuck slammed that book (IIRC-- don't take that to court).

My first glance at it, when it was under a different brand label, was a little unfavorable but mostly for the patterns, which seemed to be too much quasi-Reid &Taylor. I am coming around on that part, but I have no informed guess on its tailoring usefulness or durability.

The colors/patterns are quite retro/vintage. There are only two patterns I considered. One is a plaid and the other was an odd brown with a green stripe. Didn't jump on making one up because I don't have much interest in that look and cloth weight in my wardrobe. Still, those two resonate with me so I may do it at some point. Usually make a decision when I see the cloth I want is sold out!
Tailors have different, personal opinions of cloth. There are cloths he uses I wouldn't.

 

[Concordia]

Good example of that. Many roads to paradise.

 

[JHWilliams]

On here or LL, Shattuck slammed that book (IIRC-- don't take that to court).

My first glance at it, when it was under a different brand label, was a little unfavorable but mostly for the patterns, which seemed to be too much quasi-Reid &Taylor. I am coming around on that part, but I have no informed guess on its tailoring usefulness or durability.

Frank was the one who recommended HeritageTwist to me. Very few cloth merchants get his seal of approval

 

[Concordia]

No kidding? Sorry to have got that wrong. Dementia is creeping up on me. I'll poke around and see which one he was talking about.

 

[JHWilliams]

No kidding? Sorry to have got that wrong. Dementia is creeping up on me. I'll poke around and see which one he was talking about.

I respect and admire Frank for refusing to work with inferior cloth. He prefers the heavyweight champions, but gives his nod of approval to Fox Air and Dugdale Tropical Air for lightweight.