Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

Any ideas about fabric for a teba? Fox has had a few examples out there, and I took delivery on one in their midnight Fresco subsitute. I'm now talking to a London shirtmaker about making another, but haven't had much experience with these IRL.

Moving away from tropical worsted or linen, is there a successful solution for cooler weather? Gabardine? Hopsack? Worsted flannel? Any failures to record on this front?

 

[dieworkwear]

Any ideas about fabric for a teba? Fox has had a few examples out there, and I took delivery on one in their midnight Fresco subsitute. I'm now talking to a London shirtmaker about making another, but haven't had much experience with these IRL.

Moving away from tropical worsted or linen, is there a successful solution for cooler weather? Gabardine? Hopsack? Worsted flannel? Any failures to record on this front?

I've sorta stopped wearing the style. But when I did, I found that spongey tweed worked best. IMO, those shirt jacket things also work better when the coat has some kind of structure. Justo Gimeno makes theirs with a bit of fusing at the front and a very light shoulder pad. I think this helps create a better looking silhouette. But this may require factory production, rather than going through a tailor.

 

[Concordia]

I shall take a harder look at the Gimeno when it comes back from alterations (the collar needed a little pulling down in the back). Somehow, I was only aware of lack of construction, but there is probably a reason that he's famous.

 

[Noirkw]

Looking for recommendations for navy WSL hopsack. Saw the summer hopsack series from Ariston, but can’t seem to find the swatches online or at my tailors. Any other mills that I should take note of?

 

[Sreezy36]

Looking for recommendations for navy WSL hopsack. Saw the summer hopsack series from Ariston, but can’t seem to find the swatches online or at my tailors. Any other mills that I should take note of?

The Merchant Fox

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

This isn’t a wsl but you may want to consider it..haven’t tried this out myself. However, this is bunch that I am highly interested in for a midnight navy hopsack single breasted blazer. More than likely i will order a couple of samples of both the midnight mesh and hopsack from this bunch.

 

[Sreezy36]

Has anyone tried the 10/11oz whipcord from the Holland and Sherry “Dakota” book for trousers or suiting? Also, @Despos do you have any experience with tailoring the 10/11 oz Dakota whipcord? If so, can you elaborate on its tailoring qualities and it’s potential for suiting at that particular weight? It seems like a very intriguing prospect for suiting.

 

[dieworkwear]

Has anyone tried the 10/11oz whipcord from the Holland and Sherry “Dakota” book for trousers or suiting? Also, @Despos do you have any experience with tailoring the 10/11 oz Dakota whipcord? If so, can you elaborate on its tailoring qualities and it’s potential for suiting at that particular weight? It seems like a very intriguing prospect for suiting.

I have a couple of trousers in Dakota whipcord. Been thinking about using it for a suit.

Not sure what I can say about it besides the usual. It drapes well. This specific cloth has some nice mottling. I prefer it in the larger, more prominent twill (the smaller twill is nice too, but the larger twill looks sportier). My favorite fabric for trousers.

 

[Sreezy36]

I have a couple of trousers in Dakota whipcord. Been thinking about using it for a suit.

Not sure what I can say about it besides the usual. It drapes well. This specific cloth has some nice mottling. I prefer it in the larger, more prominent twill (the smaller twill is nice too, but the larger twill looks sportier). My favorite fabric for trousers.

If I’m not mistaken, I believe the larger more prominent twills are in the heavier weight whipcords. Also, the fabrics with beautiful motting effects are the earth tones and light/mid grays. More or less, I guess I was concerned about the lighter weight 10/11 oz being too much of compromise in terms of performance. Mainly because I usually see military twills in weights heavier than 370g.

 

[The Chai]

PSA. Standeven does summer tweeds now in mohair blends I believe

 

[The Chai]

100% summer kid mohair with midnight fermo forsatti satin facings funded!

 

[reidd]

100% summer kid mohair with midnight fermo forsatti satin facings funded! View attachment 1639634 View attachment 1639635

Love those lapels! Works great with the button stance.

 

[classicalthunde]

100% summer kid mohair with midnight fermo forsatti satin facings funded! View attachment 1639634 View attachment 1639635

what is your dinner jacket count up to these days

 

[The Chai]

what is your dinner jacket count up to these days

I threw some out because covid but in rotation. 5. I am waiting on my three piece with db waistcoat which is getting altered rn

 

[Sreezy36]

I threw some out because covid but in rotation. 5. I am waiting on my three piece with db waistcoat which is getting altered rn

How many black tie events do you normally attend during the course of a typical year (typical year non-pandemic)?

 

[The Chai]

How many black tie events do you normally attend during the course of a typical year (typical year non-pandemic)?

Proper proper black tie? Maybe 3-4 but u rarely get people turning up to black tie to those. Events with an excuse to wear black tie like opera or ballroom? Maybe 3 - 4 a month