Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Encathol Epistemia]

Just yesterday I arranged for three lengths of cloth from Pepper Lee to be sent to John Di Pietro for several garments that I have planned for future commissions. I had intended to wait, but the the ever less favorable exchange rate induced me to act impulsively and consolidating the order meant that shipping was free. Given what these cost, shipping would probably be a pittance in any case, but I am a man of action. I mean, sitting in a chair smoking a cigar and drinking a gin & tonic while watching old French films* is technically action; several discreet actions, in fact.

The cloths are, in particular:

A stone grey 9 1/5 ounce per yard 60 % mohair and 40 % wool blend for a three-piece suit

A navy 13 2/5 ounce per yard 55% Wool and 45% 3-Ply Kid Mohair blend for another three-piece suit

A blue-grey 8 4/5 ounce per yard 95 % wool and 5 % mohair blend for a sport coat

After all that action, I need a nap... and an accountant to tell me, "no!"

*Most recently Any Number Can Win (1963)

 

[The Chai]

Just yesterday I arranged for three lengths of cloth from Pepper Lee to be sent to John Di Pietro for several garments that I have planned for future commissions. I had intended to wait, but the the ever less favorable exchange rate induced me to act impulsively and consolidating the order meant that shipping was free. Given what these cost, shipping would probably be a pittance in any case, but I am a man of action. I mean, sitting in a chair smoking a cigar and drinking a gin & tonic while watching old French films* is technically action; several discreet actions, in fact.

The cloths are, in particular:

A stone grey 9 1/5 ounce per yard 60 % mohair and 40 % wool blend for a three-piece suit

A navy 13 2/5 ounce per yard 55% Wool and 45% 3-Ply Kid Mohair blend for another three-piece suit

A blue-grey 8 4/5 ounce per yard 95 % wool and 5 % mohair blend for a sport coat

After all that action, I need a nap... and an accountant to tell me, "no!"

*Most recently Any Number Can Win (1963)

I personally had samples of the stone grey and found them abit flat. Mohair looks better in two tone for me. Did you get samples for that before ordering?

 

[The Chai]

I personally have acquired a 100% kid mohair from pepper lee/william halstead and a 60% kid 40% wool blend from taylor and lodge, both in midnight for two new djs.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I personally had samples of the stone grey and found them a bit flat. Mohair looks better in two tone for me. Did you get samples for that before ordering?

Yes; I considered several alternatives. I'm fondling the swatch for it as I type this. For a long while I intended to choose a rather 'bold' bottle green, but there's something that I like about that stone grey; it's a color that I'm very attached to, despite it's inherent dullness. I can't dispute your characterization, but I think that it might be what I want. (I've been trying to be more 'expressive', but my natural home is dull or dark colors) I envision it as a kind of 'everyday or anyday' suit for warmer weather, although nothing short of taping icecubes to one's naked body is really suitable for Philadelphia in July or August.. I envision the navy cloth as a sort of 'evening suit' for wearing... I don't know, out to get a cheesesteak-and-a-half with a citywide at Oscar's Tavern.

 

[The Chai]

Yes; I considered several alternatives. I'm fondling the swatch for it as I type this. For a long while I intended to choose a rather 'bold' bottle green, but there's something that I like about that stone grey; it's a color that I'm very attached to, despite it's inherent dullness. I can't dispute your characterization, but I think that it might be what I want. (I've been trying to be more 'expressive', but my natural home is dull or dark colors) I envision it as a kind of 'everyday or anyday' suit for warmer weather, although nothing short of taping icecubes to one's naked body is really suitable for Philadelphia in July or August.. I envision the navy cloth as a sort of 'evening suit' for wearing... I don't know, out to get a cheesesteak-and-a-half with a citywide at Oscar's Tavern.

Yeah fair enough. It's a personal thing. I tend not to like flat colors...more so with light grey. Reminds me of a dental office...However that 3 ply navy is beautiful and I had a dark blue in the 60% kid mohair. I had one made in both cloths once upon a time before I outgrew both of them...mohair is an uncompromising cloth in regards to weight changes so I would get it cut roomier than usual. Especially for the three ply.

 

[The Chai]

Bateman ogden navy mockleno 4x1 blazer and wool mohair trevira suit in silver grey

 

[dukeaw]

This is not a paid promotion at all. I just got a whole bunch of fabric books from American Woolen Company. They keep in stock that can be custom ordered, and also keep over runs that can be ordered from.

I reached out to them them for fabric samples for two reasons, firstly is that they are a cloth manufacturer trying to rebuild the American cloth industry. And second that they are based in my home state of Connecticut. Def check them out.

I posted a small sample of what they sent me. I have maybe 12 swatch books with a full range of cloth.

American Woolen Company - Textile Mill & Design Lab - Made in New England, USA

American Woolen Company is a textile mill and design lab using 100% American wool and fiber, restoring New England's textile industry.

americanwoolen.com

 

[ericgereghty]

Yes; I considered several alternatives. I'm fondling the swatch for it as I type this. For a long while I intended to choose a rather 'bold' bottle green, but there's something that I like about that stone grey; it's a color that I'm very attached to, despite it's inherent dullness. I can't dispute your characterization, but I think that it might be what I want. (I've been trying to be more 'expressive', but my natural home is dull or dark colors) I envision it as a kind of 'everyday or anyday' suit for warmer weather, although nothing short of taping icecubes to one's naked body is really suitable for Philadelphia in July or August.. I envision the navy cloth as a sort of 'evening suit' for wearing... I don't know, out to get a cheesesteak-and-a-half with a citywide at Oscar's Tavern.

Go grey, all the way.

 

[Sreezy36]

I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.

Kenji in his


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Mark says he got this as a suit but often just wears the jacket as a SC. He has a ton of videos on his IG of him wearing it in ways I think looks good. I was going to ask Mark for a swatch reference. His linen has a very slight hint of yellow that I like.

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I've also thought about getting a grey linen suit. Seems like it could potentially look very "modern." W. Bill has some nice options


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Alan has also posted some nice videos of his linen suits. If you like these, you can prob ask him for a fabric reference number.

The white/ivory/cream double breasted linen suit/jacket with besom/flap pockets and white mother of pearl buttons is very intriguing to me. Mainly because of the potential versatility. It can work as a summer dinner jacket, suit, and sports jacket. Have you considered alternatives to linen such as worsted cool wool(ex: dugdale new fine worsted 9/10oz) and worsted Panama weave(ex: Smith woolens abacus 10oz)?

 

[dieworkwear]

The white/ivory/cream double breasted linen suit/jacket with besom/flap pockets and white mother of pearl buttons is very intriguing to me. Mainly because of the potential versatility. It can work as a summer dinner jacket, suit, and sports jacket. Have you considered alternatives to linen such as worsted cool wool(ex: dugdale new fine worsted 9/10oz) and worsted Panama weave(ex: Smith woolens abacus 10oz)?

I haven't, but will look into those.

I was considering linen because a cream linen sport coat seemed like it would be a nice thing to wear. I have some beige hemp-blend hopsack fabric here. At first, I thought I would get this made because it's slightly darker than cream and I thought maybe it would be easier to wear. But cream increasingly seems like a better and more enjoyable choice.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Call me weird, but a white or cream summer sport coat in smooth wool just sounds odd to me. Mayyyybe a panama weave, but otherwise cotton or linen.

 

[Sreezy36]

@UrbanComposition I definitely agree on a smooth textured wool being weird for cream a sports jacket. However, from my understanding, plain weave cool wools and Panama weaves tend to have a crisp, dry, and slightly textured feel. Almost similar to a high twist. At least that is how it looks to me. I plan on ordering some samples from dugdale in navy and charcoal very soon. I would love to get a feel of Smith woolens abacus in person as well.

Cool wool dugdale NFW

Smith Woolens Abacus via Merino Brothers site

 

[UrbanComposition]

Panama weaves are nice, but after I went fresco-crazy a few years ago, I’ve relegated dry panama weaves to very specific suiting, like when I go to a formal occasion in summer and I need a grey or navy suit that keeps a crease. Otherwise, if I can help it, I prefer more textured fabrics for summer, especially sport coats. I don’t mind if they wrinkle a bit.

 

[Wren]

I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.

Mark says he got this as a suit but often just wears the jacket as a SC. He has a ton of videos on his IG of him wearing it in ways I think looks good. I was going to ask Mark for a swatch reference. His linen has a very slight hint of yellow that I like.

Mark's looks like the oyster colour in the Tropical range from Spence Bryson. This colour works really well both as a suit and a SC.

 

[reidd]

I think a cream SC in wool will end up looking too slick and sharp (even in a fresco type cloth) for what is already a pretty loud color. Linen's wrinkles will soften the overall visual effect.