Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[artyom.le.gall]

Yea I asked for regular shoulders for that jacket. Here's a Neapolitan shoulder that they normally do and my usual preferred lapel width ? 12cm
View attachment 1604508

12 are a little bit well..you must have very broad shoulders..

Yea I asked for regular shoulders for that jacket. Here's a Neapolitan shoulder that they normally do and my usual preferred lapel width ? 12cm
View attachment 1604508

Well 12cm are barely 5inch..who counts..?quite a difference on the shoulders.

 

[RogerC]

I am a 191 cm 120kg guy so I figure a sportcoat for me would be something like 3 or 3,5 meters?

As a 190cm guy who used to be close to 120kg, I never needed more than 2,5m for a jacket.

 

[Concordia]

2.5 covers a lot. But make sure the tailor is OK with that.

 

[JFK_88]

Yea I asked for regular shoulders for that jacket. Here's a Neapolitan shoulder that they normally do and my usual preferred lapel width ? 12cm
View attachment 1604508

Jeez I like this cut! Beautiful! Great material as well and the tie is well chosen, too.

 

[JFK_88]

Oki doki fellas! I wanted to give an update on the beautiful Windowpane chestnut fabric from Fox Brothers that I missed out on and wrote about for advice a few days ago. Turns out your tip for asking Jean-Manuel Moreau in Paris was absolutely spot on, they still have 10m from that very fabric that they have not yet used up and I am getting 3,5m according to their recommendation for my size, weight and height. So if anyone is still interested in this fabric just contact Moreau via Instagram and they can hook you up. I think I also got a decent price on the material considering it was less in Euros without VAT than it was in GBP, then again I am no expert. Bespoke DJP aka Dimitris if you are reading this I owe you one and if you're ever in the D.C region I'll treat you to a really good Japanese Wiskey I got lieing around for a proper Thank You!

Good, so they'll send it over in a few days, question is then what to do with the fabric!? Personally the MTM cut I like the most so far from what I can see on the internet is the Sartoria Carrara cut from NMWA. What do you guys think? Sartoria Carrara is MTM, but from what I could gather most of their tailors are ex-D'Avenza people and from what I've heard they were considered to be the best ready to wear shop in the world at one time. So I figure the Sartoria Carrara people know what they do even if it isn't a full bespoke service as in Napoli.

Would that fabric look good in a cut like that, like the green jacket below? I think so, but I'd love to hear your thoughts! Or would you suggest to go the down the full bespoke route, maybe in Italy? Panico, Dalcuore and Ciardi look pretty cool from what I could see from Simon Compton's site and elsewhere and are maybe a bit more affordable than some of the other Neapolitan Sartoria's.

And what do you guys think of Sartoria Gallo/Jensen, who is being promoted by Kirby Allison? He seems capable and he says he makes everything by hand himself except of pants, but I wasn't blown away by his cuts on Kirby Allison on their Youtube content. Silhoutte wasn't as refined it seemed. Anyhow I'd love to hear your input!

 

[Crispyj]

Oki doki fellas! I wanted to give an update on the beautiful Windowpane chestnut fabric from Fox Brothers that I missed out on and wrote about for advice a few days ago. Turns out your tip for asking Jean-Manuel Moreau in Paris was absolutely spot on, they still have 10m from that very fabric that they have not yet used up and I am getting 3,5m according to their recommendation for my size, weight and height. So if anyone is still interested in this fabric just contact Moreau via Instagram and they can hook you up. I think I also got a decent price on the material considering it was less in Euros without VAT than it was in GBP, then again I am no expert. Bespoke DJP aka Dimitris if you are reading this I owe you one and if you're ever in the D.C region I'll treat you to a really good Japanese Wiskey I got lieing around for a proper Thank You!

Good, so they'll send it over in a few days, question is then what to do with the fabric!? Personally the MTM cut I like the most so far from what I can see on the internet is the Sartoria Carrara cut from NMWA. What do you guys think? Sartoria Carrara is MTM, but from what I could gather most of their tailors are ex-D'Avenza people and from what I've heard they were considered to be the best ready to wear shop in the world at one time. So I figure the Sartoria Carrara people know what they do even if it isn't a full bespoke service as in Napoli.

Would that fabric look good in a cut like that, like the green jacket below? I think so, but I'd love to hear your thoughts! Or would you suggest to go the down the full bespoke route, maybe in Italy? Panico, Dalcuore and Ciardi look pretty cool from what I could see from Simon Compton's site and elsewhere and are maybe a bit more affordable than some of the other Neapolitan Sartoria's.

And what do you guys think of Sartoria Gallo/Jensen, who is being promoted by Kirby Allison? He seems capable and he says he makes everything by hand himself except of pants, but I wasn't blown away by his cuts on Kirby Allison on their Youtube content. Silhoutte wasn't as refined it seemed. Anyhow I'd love to hear your input!

Try on a Sartoria Carrara x NMWA jacket first to see if you like it on you. My problem with the cut is the front chest is too narrow as my shoulders are pretty open and I don't slouch forward. If you can wait, the full bespoke Neapolitans tailors you mentioned are very nice indeed.

Not to talk bad about Sartoria Jensen but the shoulders/sleeves do not look attractive. Stylistic wise, not very modern either. With prices like that, I'd go with Sartoria Cresent.

 

[usctrojans31]

@JFK_88 - sadly Gigi Dalcuore passed away due to COVID. His daughter (Cristina) is running everything now. Luigi, who was the second cutter behind Gigi, is cutting now.

Ciardi, Ciro Zizolfi or Caliendo would do a good job there.

I promoted Craig Featherstone in another thread, and I recommend him. He made Henry Poole interesting IMO, and he seems a pretty cool dude.

 

[FlyingHorker]

This thread helped me find HFW and Caccioppoli as direct sources.

@konstantis Literally found me the source and method to buy overcoating cloth from a coat I found on instagram (Marling & Evans).

 

[jonathanS]

Oki doki fellas! I wanted to give an update on the beautiful Windowpane chestnut fabric from Fox Brothers that I missed out on and wrote about for advice a few days ago. Turns out your tip for asking Jean-Manuel Moreau in Paris was absolutely spot on, they still have 10m from that very fabric that they have not yet used up and I am getting 3,5m according to their recommendation for my size, weight and height. So if anyone is still interested in this fabric just contact Moreau via Instagram and they can hook you up. I think I also got a decent price on the material considering it was less in Euros without VAT than it was in GBP, then again I am no expert. Bespoke DJP aka Dimitris if you are reading this I owe you one and if you're ever in the D.C region I'll treat you to a really good Japanese Wiskey I got lieing around for a proper Thank You!

Good, so they'll send it over in a few days, question is then what to do with the fabric!? Personally the MTM cut I like the most so far from what I can see on the internet is the Sartoria Carrara cut from NMWA. What do you guys think? Sartoria Carrara is MTM, but from what I could gather most of their tailors are ex-D'Avenza people and from what I've heard they were considered to be the best ready to wear shop in the world at one time. So I figure the Sartoria Carrara people know what they do even if it isn't a full bespoke service as in Napoli.

Would that fabric look good in a cut like that, like the green jacket below? I think so, but I'd love to hear your thoughts! Or would you suggest to go the down the full bespoke route, maybe in Italy? Panico, Dalcuore and Ciardi look pretty cool from what I could see from Simon Compton's site and elsewhere and are maybe a bit more affordable than some of the other Neapolitan Sartoria's.

And what do you guys think of Sartoria Gallo/Jensen, who is being promoted by Kirby Allison? He seems capable and he says he makes everything by hand himself except of pants, but I wasn't blown away by his cuts on Kirby Allison on their Youtube content. Silhoutte wasn't as refined it seemed. Anyhow I'd love to hear your input!

Personally, I have been underwhelmed by Gallo NYC on Kirby.

Dalcoure travels to NY. Same with Solito, if you are looking for a naples tailor that is somewhat "affordable." If I recall correctly, Pino Peluso also travels to NY. Dalcuore is an option - even though Gigi passed away, I always had the impression that Cristina and the family was quite capable.

If you need 3.5 meters to make a jacket, I'd be concerned about doing MTM (what size are you off the rack?).

 

[JFK_88]

Personally, I have been underwhelmed by Gallo NYC on Kirby.

Dalcoure travels to NY. Same with Solito, if you are looking for a naples tailor that is somewhat "affordable." If I recall correctly, Pino Peluso also travels to NY. Dalcuore is an option - even though Gigi passed away, I always had the impression that Cristina and the family was quite capable.

If you need 3.5 meters to make a jacket, I'd be concerned about doing MTM (what size are you off the rack?).

I am usually a 48 Long or 50 Long US which is a 58 or 60 Long EU depending on cut and style. Usually a Polo Ralph Lauren 50 Long fits pretty well or a Hickey Freeman, but 48 Long can be problematic, sometimes it fits if it has been cut wider and most often its way too tight. I have a 50 long and a 48 long jacket from Hickey Freeman and both fit extremely well. Ralph Lauren Jackets in 50 Long are better than 48 Long, those usually are too small for me. For example a Canali neither in 48 long nor 50 long fits. Jean Manuel Moreau said that 3,2 m would be ideal for a sportcoat with patch pockets for me, but 3,5 meter would be on the safe side according to him.

 

[jonathanS]

I am usually a 48 Long or 50 Long US which is a 58 or 60 Long EU depending on cut and style. Usually a Polo Ralph Lauren 50 Long fits pretty well or a Hickey Freeman, but 48 Long can be problematic, sometimes it fits if it has been cut wider and most often its way too tight. I have a 50 long and a 48 long jacket from Hickey Freeman and both fit extremely well. Ralph Lauren Jackets in 50 Long are better than 48 Long, those usually are too small for me. For example a Canali neither in 48 long nor 50 long fits. Jean Manuel Moreau said that 3,2 m would be ideal for a sportcoat with patch pockets for me, but 3,5 meter would be on the safe side according to him.

Then I would do bespoke at that size, personally.

 

[CorozoButton]

Can anyone recommend an alternative to the M&E 50/50 Wool/Linen Beige Hopsack?

Unfortunately out of stock and won't be back in for a little while.

 

[The Chai]

Can anyone recommend an alternative to the M&E 50/50 Wool/Linen Beige Hopsack?
View attachment 1608015

Unfortunately out of stock and won't be back in for a little while.

Bateman Ogden Wimbledon wool cotton linen

 

[konoyaro]

Can anyone recommend an alternative to the M&E 50/50 Wool/Linen Beige Hopsack?
View attachment 1608015

Unfortunately out of stock and won't be back in for a little while.

Holland & Sherry has something similar

 

[ZRH1]

talking about hopsack, how about the new offers from Fox?

450gr: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-drop-special-selection/products/midnight-hopsack-1
320gr: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-sport/products/fox-sport-midnight-hopsack

I prefer heavier fabrics, but I was wondering which one you'd recommend.

Thanks