Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[yanagi]

Thanks. So for a more standard 3 Season (Spring/Summer/Early Fall) Sport Coat, you'd pick 510244?

I have a DB blazer in 510244. It's a very conservative dark navy that you cannot go wrong with.

Spoiler

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't remember the exact fabric number I choose, but I like the cloth. The only criticism I have of it is that the weave attracts dust. You have to give it a few more brushings.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Thanks. So for a more standard 3 Season (Spring/Summer/Early Fall) Sport Coat, you'd pick 510244?

Yes.

 

[CorozoButton]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think the confusion I'm having is that I've seen product shots for the NMWA in 510243, and the S&M in 510244, and they look very similar to me, so I'm trying to work out if the 243 picture is too dark or the 244 picture is too light.

510243 NMWA:

510244 S&M:

 

[aristoi bcn]

The 510243 in the picture from NMWA looks way darker than what it is in real life.

 

[CorozoButton]

The 510243 in the picture from NMWA looks way darker than what it is in real life.

Thank you, that's what I expected? Do you feel the 510244 pic from S&M is accurate? If so, that's what I'd be after.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Thank you, that's what I expected? Do you feel the 510244 pic from S&M is accurate? If so, that's what I'd be after.

Yes, the picture from Spy&MaCain is 100% accurate to my eyes.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

The 510243 in the picture from NMWA looks way darker than what it is in real life.

Agree 243 is much lighter IRL. I have 510243 and regret not getting 510244. I think 243 really only works as a spring/summer blazer and is somewhat difficult to pair with grey trousers. It does look great with cream or tan though.

That said if you already have a straight dark navy blazer, 243 is a good supplement.

 

[CorozoButton]

Thank you everyone - 244 it is.

 

[artyom.le.gall]

I have a swatch of the Lovat Bard in mid-grey (its really between mid-grey and charcoal) and love it, at 13oz with an open weave I feel like its comparable to Finmeresco or Ascot. Its a serious contender for my next suit...

Where one can find Lovat Bard book online ?

 

[classicalthunde]

Where one can find Lovat Bard book online ?

I don’t believe it is, I called their office to get some swatches. I’ll see if I can dig them up a little later in the day and take a picture of them, it’s just mid grey, charcoal, and a dark navy

 

[artyom.le.gall]

I don’t believe it is, I called their office to get some swatches. I’ll see if I can dig them up a little later in the day and take a picture of them, it’s just mid grey, charcoal, and a dark navy

Many thanks! I dropped them a note. So far to no avail...

 

[mactire]

I appreciate your answers regarding my question about the faded linen.
I read through the conversation about different coloured linens and are going to search for an alternative 11oz linen in blue from a reliable brand and ask them directly about their dying process.
Here is a better photo, the marked area has the original blue, the faded parts are from some weeks of wear only.
I expect the linen to keep its colour at least three years, do you know an alternative cloth that is medium heavy, a little rough and summer ready?


View attachment 1587425

If you want to minimise the level of fading what you can do is to soak the cloth before making up, this removes excess dye and will reduce contrast/fading when worn in over time.

 

[Sreezy36]

Do any of you guys know if the H. Lesser 313 8/9oz book has any hopsack fabrics?

 

[Chrjs]

There are no longer any commercial linen spinning mills in Ireland, this sector shut down 20 years ago. Commercial flax production shut down in Ireland in the 1960's. Flax farming, processing and linen yarn spinning is done in France, Belgium or Italy, and so yarn dying may be done there also. There are nine remaining commercial linen weavers and finishers in Ireland; some finishers will piece-dye and finish linen fabric for other weavers on contract. English merchants' technical teams are no doubt on top of all the details of who does what and where and how to their fabrics, but I doubt their sales staff have this in-depth knowledge.

You might like to watch this short video on piece dying at Baird McNutt (sister company of John Hanna); I have found the John Hanna suitings keep their colour pretty well, although darker colours will inevitably fade more noticeably than light coloured fabrics over time.

I appreciate your knowledgeable contribution. Baird McNutt clothes seem very affordable but don't have the thickness (around 11oz) that I want for this jacket. I might use cloth of them later for other pieces.

If you want to minimise the level of fading what you can do is to soak the cloth before making up, this removes excess dye and will reduce contrast/fading when worn in over time.

Ah, I remember that tip now from some years ago, when I learned about clothes. As long as it's subtle, I don't mind a little fading. And I expect it to be subtle when I buy it from a well known producer.
My current favourite linens are from Harrisons W. Bill and Mersolair collection and I will give them a call soon.