Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

Surprised to see linen on the list. I expected twill and whipcord.

My squatting is odd as my front and back squat PRs are pretty much the same. But the squat clean is my favorite movement.

Have you had issues with linen in the past? It works well for the humid dc summers.

 

[kid1002]

Any experiences with H.Lesser Lumbs Golden Bale?

In particular their (worsted?) flannels:

View attachment 1587386

I'd like to know how they do compare in terms of drape and durability to their non-golden bale equivalents. And also the price if you happen to know.

What I could already notice with the swatches is that the hand is substantially softer and the colours more vibrant if that makes sense.

First time I see a suiting cloth in black that I like btw.

In terms of drape and durability I don't think the non-LGB ones would be that different.

 

[Concordia]

Good question. Traditionally, Golden Bale was much higher quality than normal, and probably 100s rather than 80s or 90s in the standard suiting. To the good, for the most part. But it is also a bit lighter weight than other high-class English flannels.

I wouldn't rule it out, but it is maybe more of a luxury choice. If I were to try something in that vein, I might look at Escorial as well.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

I've got some vintage lengths lately including
- Dormeuil 10000 flannel
- Wain Shiell Wain D'or and Mohair 800
and apparently all these were manufactured across the 80s. Just wondering if anyone knows how they perform. (I read from some Japanese website that Wain D'or was the predecessor of LGB but I feel dubious) Pics to follow

 

[Sreezy36]

Do you guys get your matching suit trousers cut the same way as your odd trousers? For example, would you get a pair of odd flannel or fresco trousers cut the same way as typical charcoal sharkskin suit trouser?

 

[paborden]

Do you guys get your matching suit trousers cut the same way as your odd trousers? For example, would you get a pair of odd flannel or fresco trousers cut the same way as typical charcoal sharkskin suit trouser?

I typically do single pleats on odd trousers, double pleats on suit trousers. Can only speak for myself and this might be my own weird little system.

 

[paborden]

I've been waffling on maybe having something in this cloth made up.

Question is ... single breasted or double breasted. Thoughts? Would just be a jacket not a full suit.

 

[Jamesbond1]

Try Solbiati

Dugdale 9 oz linen for suiting. What are your thoughts?

 

[Sreezy36]

I've been waffling on maybe having something in this cloth made up.

View attachment 1588384

Question is ... single breasted or double breasted. Thoughts? Would just be a jacket not a full suit.

if it is for a sports jacket, I’d opt for a single breasted. Very versatile and looks really good when worn with knits and layers. If it is for a Dinner jacket, I would select a double breasted shawl with self facing lapels.

 

[lordsuperb]

I've been waffling on maybe having something in this cloth made up.

View attachment 1588384

Question is ... single breasted or double breasted. Thoughts? Would just be a jacket not a full suit.

 

[WhereNext]

Do you guys get your matching suit trousers cut the same way as your odd trousers? For example, would you get a pair of odd flannel or fresco trousers cut the same way as typical charcoal sharkskin suit trouser?

Mine are cut the same; the only change is that odd trousers get 1 back pocket and my suit trousers have none.

 

[WhereNext]

View attachment 1588405

This looks great! I'm eyeing a more muted/darker blackwatch plaid to have made up as a dinner jacket. Currently planning on doing it as a 1-button SB with a satin silk on the shawl lapel and the gauntlet cuffs.

 

[usctrojans31]

They work as odd trousers too

 

[dan'l]

Agreed, but not with a velvet coat.

 

[dukeaw]

Mine are cut the same; the only change is that odd trousers get 1 back pocket and my suit trousers have none.

I cut my suit trousers a touch looser on the waist for suspenders. The U-rise is also about 1-2 inches greater for a higher waist position and single reverse pleat. Odd trousers are slightly lower u rise and tighter on waist with plain front. No suspenders but have side pulls. Cut same in hips, thighs, knee, bottom. But thats just my style. In my early 30's