Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

Yes, modelled on this one. It grew on me. View attachment 1562997

I know this is old news, but i love that you can clearly see Charles and Philip wear the same articles of clothing throughout their whole adult life

 

[Sreezy36]

Yes, modelled on this one. It grew on me. View attachment 1562997

Definitely a sartorial conversation starter. That particular button configuration isn’t my preference. However, it is not incorrect nor is it in bad taste.

 

[mockingboy]

Has anyone had anything made up from the Loro Piana Traveler Book; specifically looking at the 260 gram Wool and Silk with 1% lycra as a summer/travel suit?

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Yes. Ulster does a large herringbone linen at 450 480 g weight. I have one in navy which works for summer and it rumbles in a way which does not look out of place in winter

There was a member here who cut, trimmed, and made his own suit in a 600g upholstery linen. Forest/hunter green. Wore it in the colder months and looked good. I recently had one made up myself. Works fairly well, although if you're getting a solid, I think you want a grayer tone of the color than you might for summer linens. To my eye, saturated colors--even dark greens or browns--look a little odd on linen in the winter, whereas I think they look great on flannel or tweed or corduroy. Something about linen's stiffness, maybe. Mottling/two-tones like on a herringbone are fine.

I do 600g pants in upholstery linen all the time, summer or winter.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

In my search for a autumn/winter navy birdseye suit I’ve narrowed down my options to either Standeven Escorial 11oz or Dugdale Royal Classic Vantage 12oz

It would be worn in temps from about 6-16 Celsius

The Escorial is almost twice the price but it comes highly recommended and apparently has more character than the Dugdale. My own concern is whether it would make up too ‘soft’ for a business suit. I believe it’s the same as this suit from The Armoury.

Any advice? Hard when I don’t have access to the swatches.

 

[bdavro23]

In my search for a autumn/winter navy birdseye suit I’ve narrowed down my options to either Standeven Escorial 11oz or Dugdale Royal Classic Vantage 12oz

It would be worn in temps from about 6-16 Celsius

The Escorial is almost twice the price but it comes highly recommended and apparently has more character than the Dugdale. My own concern is whether it would make up too ‘soft’ for a business suit. I believe it’s the same as this suit from The Armoury.

Any advice? Hard when I don’t have access to the swatches.

I'm pretty sure I have the Dugdale book downstairs. Is there something in particular that you are looking for from the cloth or specific questions you have?

 

[sebastian mcfox]

I'm pretty sure I have the Dugdale book downstairs. Is there something in particular that you are looking for from the cloth or specific questions you have?

That’s very kind of you but I don’t really have any specific questions about the Dugdale swatch itself, I’m more curious about how it makes up, and comparisons to the Escorial.

 

[ericgereghty]

Escorial!!!

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Harrison’s Premier Cru is my go to. Very wrinkle resistant, good colors. The charcoal birds eye is a particular favorite

Unfortunately my tailor informs me that Harrisons attracts a sizeable markup due to regional distribution deals or some such (apparently Premier Cru would be 2x the price of Escorial).

Is there anything outside of Harrisons you would recommend?

 

[bdavro23]

Unfortunately my tailor informs me that Harrisons attracts a sizeable markup due to regional distribution deals or some such (apparently Premier Cru would be 2x the price of Escorial).

Is there anything outside of Harrisons you would recommend?

Where are you located? The same distributor handles both for me here in the US...

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Where are you located? The same distributor handles both for me here in the US...

My tailor is in Hong Kong, where I understand Merino Bros has an exclusive deal with Harrisons

 

[Concordia]

Ooh. I don't have a lot of direct knowledge about fabric there, but the prices Ascot Chang charges for their better cottons are insane. CMT makes a ton of difference.

 

[konstantis]

Could anyone recommend me some books of non worsted fabrics at the at the weight area of 10-11 oz ? One that i am thinking is Fox Somerset , evethought a bit heavier . Anything else ? Thanks.

 

[stifler]

I'm looking to have a classic navy peacoat made and can get Loro Piana storm system cashmere. I will probably wear the peacoat once/weekly at the most. How is the fabric? Any recommendations? Price will not be an issue. I want a substantial peacoat for Minnesota winters.

Here is the fabric in question:

Cashmere with a Waterproof Coating

Soft and fine violet cashmere fabric from Loro Piana, the well-known Italian textile company. Exclusive PFC-free Rain System® treatment forms an invisible barrier around each fiber. It makes water droplets slide off the surface, protecting it against dirt, dust, and liquid stains. Loro Piana...

tissura.com

 

[breakaway01]

I'm looking to have a classic navy peacoat made and can get Loro Piana storm system cashmere. I will probably wear the peacoat once/weekly at the most. How is the fabric? Any recommendations? Price will not be an issue. I want a substantial peacoat for Minnesota winters.

Here is the fabric in question:

Cashmere with a Waterproof Coating

Soft and fine violet cashmere fabric from Loro Piana, the well-known Italian textile company. Exclusive PFC-free Rain System® treatment forms an invisible barrier around each fiber. It makes water droplets slide off the surface, protecting it against dirt, dust, and liquid stains. Loro Piana...

tissura.com

325 gsm is far too light for a peacoat. Also 100% cashmere is too soft. It won’t look right as a peacoat, and I doubt the collar would stand up well. Look for something at least 650-700 gsm, at most 10% cashmere if you want some softness. The wool melton used for my vintage peacoat is apparently 32 oz and quite stiff.