Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/silk-fabrics/fashion-fabrics/matka-and-suitings/silk-suiting-8012/41-Beige

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/silk-fabrics/fashion-fabrics/matka-and-suitings/silk-suiting-8012/1018-Otter/

Adding two new unfunded liabilities to my collection...

 

[SimonC]

I have some trousers made in 560 gram covert coating and they are very nice to wear in the winter. That weight might be a bit light for a proper overcoat, but for simply "cool" weather as you say, it would be fine.

Agreed with this. I have sportcoats in heavier fabrics than that. 560g seems more topcoat than overcoat.

 

[JHWilliams]

Agreed with this. I have sportcoats in heavier fabrics than that. 560g seems more topcoat than overcoat.

Hi Simon. I sent you a PM. Not sure if it went through. Thanks!

 

[mack11211]

Can anyone recommend me linen or other non-cotton shirt fabric? Would like to experiment with something that's not cotton for a change. I can't recall any US fabrics mentioned on here, though that would be a bonus.

Thanks!

Among the big cut-length shirting offerings, Canclini has the greatest variety of fabric compositions. I think there's tencel, and lyocell, and maybe wool, and canapa (hemp) among others. Hemp is like linen but a little softer, in my experience. You can browse it all on their web window-shop here but I think they only sell to the trade, so you would have to order through your shirtmaker.

 

[ZRH1]

PS Yellow Oxford - cloth – Permanent Style

ordered a length of it and compared to the thickest/fuzziest Oxford of Albini (Thomas Mason) it appeared softer.

 

[CorozoButton]

For those who have gone for the Minnis Fresco Mock Leno jacketing, did you choose 510243, or the darker navy 510244? Does anyone know what shade was used for this?

x Sartoria Carrara: Navy sport coat in Minnis Mock Leno 10/11oz

From our first in-house line of tailoring, made in partnership with Sartoria Carrara and exclusively for No Man Walks Alone, this single-breasted navy sport coat is the best possible version of a navy blazer that we can think of. Cut from bespoke aficion

nomanwalksalone.com

 

[classicalthunde]

For those who have gone for the Minnis Fresco Mock Leno jacketing, did you choose 510243, or the darker navy 510244? Does anyone know what shade was used for this?

x Sartoria Carrara: Navy sport coat in Minnis Mock Leno 10/11oz

From our first in-house line of tailoring, made in partnership with Sartoria Carrara and exclusively for No Man Walks Alone, this single-breasted navy sport coat is the best possible version of a navy blazer that we can think of. Cut from bespoke aficion

nomanwalksalone.com

@gdl203 might be able to help out with which shade this is...

 

[yanagi]

For those who have gone for the Minnis Fresco Mock Leno jacketing, did you choose 510243, or the darker navy 510244? Does anyone know what shade was used for this?

x Sartoria Carrara: Navy sport coat in Minnis Mock Leno 10/11oz

From our first in-house line of tailoring, made in partnership with Sartoria Carrara and exclusively for No Man Walks Alone, this single-breasted navy sport coat is the best possible version of a navy blazer that we can think of. Cut from bespoke aficion

nomanwalksalone.com

I went with 510244. It's a conservative, dark navy (not midnight).

 

[gdl203]

Ours is 510243

 

[CorozoButton]

Thanks so much! Tough decisions to make!

 

[CorozoButton]

I went with 510244. It's a conservative, dark navy (not midnight).

Can I ask how you're finding the jacket? What did you go for in terms of lining configuration, and how do you find it handles heat?

 

[yanagi]

Can I ask how you're finding the jacket? What did you go for in terms of lining configuration, and how do you find it handles heat?

My jacket is a 6x2 DB, fully lined (as suggested by my tailor). I love it. I think the warmest this past summer that I ever wore it was 82-ish F and not that humid. I run hot but felt fine walking outside with the jacket on. Conversely, the coldest I've worn it was last November when it was an unseasonably warm 64-ish F.

 

[CorozoButton]

My jacket is a 6x2 DB, fully lined (as suggested by my tailor). I love it. I think the warmest this past summer that I ever wore it was 82-ish F and not that humid. I run hot but felt fine walking outside with the jacket on. Conversely, the coldest I've worn it was last November when it was an unseasonably warm 64-ish F.

Thank you so much. That's pretty much all of May - September where I am, save a few odd days, so that's great to hear.

 

[dukeaw]

All,

I feel overwhelmed... I have historically been working with a tailor that has only two options: Loro Piana and Holland and Sherry. When I wanted linen @The Chai recommended Spence Bryson, and now my tailor has that. That makes life easy. I simply had him make my suit with the HS s120 fabrics. I dont even know what book it was from. From their website it could have been snowy river or Target. The fabric is 8.5 oz so I'm guessing snowy river

However, I am now working with a manufacturer (a factory) that has access to many many many mills and merchants. I suddenly feel overwhelmed. I dont know where to start for basic suiting. I'm only going to use their in house unknown cloth for the test fittings. Once I move beyond that I plan to move on to european fabrics. I could keep going with Holland and Sherry, but I could explore VBC/Drapers... but do I do arrivals or 5 star? I could try Ariston and go with their collection of super 120's. Dugdale Merchant Fleece could work. I could even try Huddersfield fine worsted... although from the looks of it they only have 130 in their Bedlam book. I havent even looks into Zegna, Loro Piana, or Scabal, or Doremeuil, yet...

I know I cant go wrong with any of these fabrics... is there any method to choosing, or should I just spin the bottle? I'm leaning towards spinning the bottle unless someone has another way to frame this decision

 

[The Chai]

All,

I feel overwhelmed... I have historically been working with a tailor that has only two options: Loro Piana and Holland and Sherry. When I wanted linen @The Chai recommended Spence Bryson, and now my tailor has that. That makes life easy. I simply had him make my suit with the HS s120 fabrics. I dont even know what book it was from. From their website it could have been snowy river or Target. The fabric is 8.5 oz so I'm guessing snowy river

However, I am now working with a manufacturer (a factory) that has access to many many many mills and merchants. I suddenly feel overwhelmed. I dont know where to start for basic suiting. I'm only going to use their in house unknown cloth for the test fittings. Once I move beyond that I plan to move on to european fabrics. I could keep going with Holland and Sherry, but I could explore VBC/Drapers... but do I do arrivals or 5 star? I could try Ariston and go with their collection of super 120's. Dugdale Merchant Fleece could work. I could even try Huddersfield fine worsted... although from the looks of it they only have 130 in their Bedlam book. I havent even looks into Zegna, Loro Piana, or Scabal, or Doremeuil, yet...

I know I cant go wrong with any of these fabrics... is there any method to choosing, or should I just spin the bottle? I'm leaning towards spinning the bottle unless someone has another way to frame this decision

Depends on what you want really, style and feeling wise...material etc...everyone is good at something and has their own niche...i.e. halstead and mohairs, bateman and dugdales for worsteds that wont bust the bank...