The Chai
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- Oct 7, 2015
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Yeah I learnt this the hard way. The closest thing I would think as a four season suit in an Australian context is mohair but again that’s strictly suiting. If you’re going to go with jacketing stick to seasonalI don't think there are truly four season cloths. In winter, layering helps, although you would still be cold around the legs. In summer, you're going to be stuffed if you spend any amount of time outside of air conditioning. Better, then, to have a small number of pieces that aren't extremely seasonal (linen, heavy flannel) but sufficiently so (mock leno/heavier worsteds). Also: what are your needs? Do you need to dress for work or are you doing so for fun? Or are you looking for a safe uniform so you don't need to overthink things too much? (Welcome, then, on the wrong forum for you my friend).
At any rate: nailhead and pick-and-pick are suit fabrics only in my book. No odd jackets, no odd trousers. For odd wool trousers, use twills (covert, cavalry, gabardine) or flannels. Hopsack comes in all shapes and sizes, and serge comes in different weights. By the way, serge is a particular kind of twill, and no-one outside of this forum will ever even be aware of the difference. If you're not going for bespoke, go to a decent retailer, try on a few and have them tailor it for you.
There is no standard cloth for a business suit. Suiting books usually contain a mix of plain weaves and twills, either solid or patterned. Weaves and patterns are different: you can have a plain weave stripe and a twill stripe, a plain weave PoW check and a twill PoW check.
If you only need a small number of highly versatile pieces, don't overthink it. Buy two blazers, and two solid mid-to-dark grey suits, one each for warmer and colder weather. Buy them from reputable retailers, such as Ede and Ravenscroft or, at a lower price point, Charles Tyrwhitt. They will work now and ten years from now. Have them tailored, and then go on to live your life.