Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[venividivicibj]

Can I ask if anyone has tried ordering from kabbani textile on IG? It’s run by Fadi Kabbani. He seems to have all mills available but not sure if they’re genuine?

He’s real, and good. Have ordered through him several times.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Really? Looks to be turning into something very nice.

Really. And I am not glad to highlight it!

Have you seen the image with the sleeve attached? The direction of the barleycorn in the garment's torso points downwards, whereas in the sleeve it points upwards!

I think this is a very unfortunate thing to pass by, and a gross mistake by any tailor delivering a bespoke garment.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Concordia]

Missed that one. Oh, well.

Looks like a LL birdseye. I have my own jacket made from that. Sleeves probably not mismatched!

 

[Despos]

Really. And I am not glad to highlight it!

Have you seen the image with the sleeve attached? The direction of the barleycorn in the garment's torso points downwards, whereas in the sleeve it points upwards!

I think this is a very unfortunate thing to pass by, and a gross mistake by any tailor delivering a bespoke garment.

Cheers,

Dimitris

This happens when the cutter is careless and might think no one will catch it or when there isn’t enough cloth and it’s necessary to reverse pattern pieces to fit everything into the amount of cloth you have.

 

[FlyingHorker]

This happens when the cutter is careless and might think no one will catch it or when there isn’t enough cloth and it’s necessary to reverse pattern pieces to fit everything into the amount of cloth you have.

Hmm where are the pictures? I can't seem to find this mismatched barleycorn.

 

[yanagi]

Hmm where are the pictures? I can't seem to find this mismatched barleycorn.

I assume it's here.

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Thank you! I genuinely was starting to wonder it I had just imagined or, as bdrvro23 mentioned, conflated it with the W. Bill. Do you know of anyone currently offering a larger scale non-tweed brown barleycorn? Why don’t you get something started with a mill? You’ll of course be public enemy...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Bespoke DJP]

This happens when the cutter is careless and might think no one will catch it or when there isn’t enough cloth and it’s necessary to reverse pattern pieces to fit everything into the amount of cloth you have.

Sure!

As far as the cutter's carelessness is concerned, this should never happen because he/she does have a professional duty of care.

In the second case (shortage of cloth), at first instance it is the client's mistake (assuming a CMT deal) to deliver a fabric short of the required-by-the-garment length, but he could be advised by the tailor during the bespoke process to order an extra length; not a big deal!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[hpreston]

Hmm where are the pictures? I can't seem to find this mismatched barleycorn.

It was in the below post (second pic)

Why don’t you get something started with a mill? You’ll of course be public enemy No. 1 on the London lounge.

View attachment 1469360
View attachment 1469359

 

[FlyingHorker]

Impatience and procrastination from life lead me to scrolling through M&E's instagram...and I found this! This looks to be the exact same coat that was hanging off a dummy that I was looking to duplicate.



I do wonder how my own pattern matching will end up regarding this cloth. It looks like the raglan sleeve intersecting with the shoulder area is tough to nail.

The coat below on the right being a much more obvious example on how this can look disastrous

 

[Wren]

Sure!

As far as the cutter's carelessness is concerned, this should never happen because he/she does have a professional duty of care.

In the second case (shortage of cloth), at first instance it is the client's mistake (assuming a CMT deal) to deliver a fabric short of the required-by-the-garment length, but he could be advised by the tailor during the bespoke process to order an extra length; not a big deal!

Best,

Dimitris

Unfortunately it happens quite often. Here is another example, this time on the pockets:

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Yes, I absolutely agree!

Not only is the flap-in-sight sewn upside down, but more to that, it is not even vertically aligned with the rows of the PoW above and below the pockets! This has proved to be a challenging (and troublesome!) part of this particular jacket because just above the flaps - due to the darts - the vertical rows of the PoW have been trimmed to three from four.

I am no tailor, but in a layman approach I would have pre-estimated the position of the dart with the use of the client's personal pattern, and I would have probably selected the void area between the vertical parts of the PoW if other harmonies were not disturbed; there, the above-underlined problem caused by the darts would have been avoided.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[classicalthunde]

I know I've whined about this a bit before and may just be shouting into the void at this point, but I'm looking into some insight into the rationale behind merchants retail pricing on fabrics vs. their trade pricing...I just got a 'weekly special' email from Fox Bros for Shetland tweed that was 190GBP per meter!

I can imagine major tailoring houses (Huntsman, A&S, Poole, etc) having a large enough book of business w/ Fox to equate to a very nice discount...but I'm also curious how many cut lengths per year other smaller houses like Steed, Steven Hitchcock, or Richard Anderson would have in a given year with Fox Bros to justify a similar trade price

 

[zr3rs]

I know I've whined about this a bit before and may just be shouting into the void at this point, but I'm looking into some insight into the rationale behind merchants retail pricing on fabrics vs. their trade pricing...I just got a 'weekly special' email from Fox Bros for Shetland tweed that was 190GBP per meter!

I can imagine major tailoring houses (Huntsman, A&S, Poole, etc) having a large enough book of business w/ Fox to equate to a very nice discount...but I'm also curious how many cut lengths per year other smaller houses like Steed, Steven Hitchcock, or Richard Anderson would have with Fox Bros to justify a similar trade price

Complete runs for RTW (e.g. Hackett) or resellers are in a completely different price range, but even cut lengths for small tailors are priced to give your tailor a nice margin if he is invoicing you at 190GBP....

 

[classicalthunde]

Complete runs for RTW (e.g. Hackett) or resellers are in a completely different price range, but even cut lengths for small tailors are priced to give your tailor a nice margin if he is invoicing you at 190GBP....

Yea, I definitely understand how buying whole runs for RTW lines would be a different ball game...but lets just say that Huntsman buys 100 jacket/suit lengths of Fox Bros throughout the course of the year, and Steed buys 10 jacket/suit lengths at roughly the same trade price...why is someone who is purchasing 1-2 lengths getting charged a 4x premium.

I have heard that its to 'protect' the tailor who wants to upcharge, but a) isnt that the tailors responsibility, and b) if that is the case shouldn't the tailor just refuse CMT?

 

[bdavro23]

I know I've whined about this a bit before and may just be shouting into the void at this point, but I'm looking into some insight into the rationale behind merchants retail pricing on fabrics vs. their trade pricing...I just got a 'weekly special' email from Fox Bros for Shetland tweed that was 190GBP per meter!

I can imagine major tailoring houses (Huntsman, A&S, Poole, etc) having a large enough book of business w/ Fox to equate to a very nice discount...but I'm also curious how many cut lengths per year other smaller houses like Steed, Steven Hitchcock, or Richard Anderson would have in a given year with Fox Bros to justify a similar trade price

Well, the vast majority of purchasers of cloth are people in the trade, so it would make sense the the mills would give them preferred pricing. And it isnt just the cut lengths that they buy that the mills want to support, its the whole ecosystem. Smaller houses still market, drive and support the cloth industry, and are vitally important to the mills. Consumer direct sales cuts tailors, MTM houses, etc out of the circle and eventually leads to a contraction of the market. Its effectively Walmarting the cloth industry.