Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[AVG]

You are welcome!

Unfortunately I have never handled this particular LP fabric, certainly the brand's vast experience through the years will vouch for its quality! Still, I am afraid that I cannot offer any direct experience, and this is one of the reasons of the link, perhaps one of our fellows here might have something to contribute.

As I wrote above, Magee has very nice fabric propositions, your posted image above depicts handsomely the beauty of this fabric; I believe that the fabric might be one of the following two:

Errigal - Navy Herringbone, Flecked Donegal Tweed Magee 1866

Perfect for coats, crafting and for light domestic use upholstery this fabulous tweed is available to buy by the metre. The designs are inspired by the colours of the land and seascapes surrounding Donegal. All tweeds are woven in our mill in Do .... €1.50.High Quality Clothing and Accessories.

www.magee1866.com

Errigal - Navy & Blue Herringbone, Flecked Donegal Tweed Magee 1866

Perfect for coats, crafting and for light domestic use upholstery this fabulous tweed is available to buy by the metre. The designs are inspired by the colours of the land and seascapes surrounding Donegal. All tweeds are woven in our mill in Do .... €1.50.High Quality Clothing and Accessories.

www.magee1866.com

Finally, it's been cited numerous times in this thread, there are a lot of parameters affecting the required length! I urge you to request samples from Magee (or other maker / merchant) and after your final choice, consult with your tailor to determine the length to be bought.

Best,

Dimitris

Thank you, Dimitris. I am prone to think that the picture that I posted before is none of the fabrics that you mentioned (one seems to me as too dark, the other seems sort of greenish), but as soon as I got answer from Magee I will update you all.

Do you know if it is possible to request a complete bunch of samples? And if so, how much usually they do cost?

Regarding length, I previously discussed about how many meters we will need with my tailor. However, let's hope first that they have the fabric and then I will double check this important point on length requirements. I am still not totally sure about the kind of coat that I want to order. I was originally thinking about a full-length coat, but being so long plus double-chested will most probably be unbalanced. In attachment my original idea in a different fabric with some minor modifications (photo credit: LA www.lopezaragon1976mto.com).

All the best,

AVG

 

[FlyingHorker]

(Re-state from a previous message that was located at the wrong place)

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am planning to order a new (possibly double breasted) raglan coat and I was wondering if you could give me some advice. The weather here (Norway) is quite rainy/cold, so I was looking for something around 650 gr in blue herringbone, preferably a donegal, soft but durable for "daily" use.

In attachment you will find an example of the color and pattern that I am looking for. If anyone knows which one is this fabric, please let me know. All suggestions and advices are obviously more than welcome.

Best regards,

AVG

Photo credit: Fabio la Mantia/Sartoria Panico

View attachment 1466248

This picture reminds me of why I wanted a darker blue tweed coat again.

At this rate, I'm going to end up with more coats than sports coats.

 

[bdavro23]

Thank you, Dimitris. Yesterday I was indeed tempted to choose one of those (ref. 654019) but as far as I know this is about 240€/m, right? My other concern is also durability/behave under heavy rain conditions. Until expanding my current wardrobe I cannot count much on rotation. Do you have any experience with these Loro Piana?

Meantime, I found this beautiful Magee fabric (660 gr) at http://t-katsura.sakura.ne.jp/, but I didn't saw the reference of it. I just contact Magee to see if they still have it in stock. I guess that I will need about 2.5m. What do you think?

Best wishes,

AVG

View attachment 1466353

I dont know that I have ever seen a ragland sleeved, double breasted coat, but I could be mistaken. In any case, 2.5 meters is probably not enough for an overcoat. Ragland sleeves require more cloth than typical construction, as does double breasted over single. I cant stress how important it is to talk with whomever is going to make this for you before trying to order cloth. Better yet, just let your tailor order it for you.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I dont know that I have ever seen a ragland sleeved, double breasted coat, but I could be mistaken. In any case, 2.5 meters is probably not enough for an overcoat. Ragland sleeves require more cloth than typical construction, as does double breasted over single. I cant stress how important it is to talk with whomever is going to make this for you before trying to order cloth. Better yet, just let your tailor order it for you.

Here are some

 

[bdavro23]

Here are some

Hey, thanks for this, very interesting.

 

[FlyingHorker]

@bdavro23 no problem. B&Tailor's instagram is a black hole where an hour can go by and I won't even notice. Full of great inspiration and modern looking coats.

 

[Stanacle]

I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.

Based on my lurking their instagram, it seems to be a marketing statement.

They claim that the wool yarn doesn't have any chemicals or dyes applied to achieve the colour, and comes from the fleece of different sheep.

 

[dieworkwear]

I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.

Undyed wool is just the natural color of the sheep. Depending on the design, I find undyed wool fabrics have a really nice, earthy, slightly variegated color. But since it's undyed, it can only come in certain colors (often various shades of brown)

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I see Marling and Evans's overcoat fabrics are labelled as "undyed British wool". What's the difference between this undyed wool and other wool? Thanks.

Dear @Stanacle,

Our fellows' clarifications on the "undyed British wool" subject are very useful indeed!

Should you wish to peruse a comprehensive undyed wool fabrics' line, let me remind you that the Loro Piana "Pecora Nera" line is exclusively based on this procedure:

Loro Piana Percora Nera Fabric Swatches — Hall Madden

Hall Madden review: The Pecora Nera collection comprises fabrics for suits, blazers and overcoats all made from undyed natural wool fibers. These unique fabrics are from sheep that have been “reverse bred” to have dark fleece that resembles a very dark brown color. These so-called “black sheep” were

hallmadden.com

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Concordia]

If you like undyed wool, Ardalanish tweeds have a nice selection. Very rustic.

 

[Wren]

For anyone who is interested, I just received my length of Edmorel's Zegna navy pure silk. It's a muted light navy. It has a dry handle. No sheen at all. It also has a decent amount of drape considering the weight.

This photo is the best out of those I have taken, in terms of colour representation.

 

[dan'l]

That looks great! Thanks for posting. It looks nothing like the blueberry suit Derek was implying!!

What are you planning to have made? Suit or sport coat?

 

[Wren]

Yeah it did look very bright and saturated on the photos. I actually asked Ed about the colour and he sent me another photo taken in natural light, and that photo was much better.

I'm going for a 3 roll 2 notch lapel sport coat, only because I personally prefer trousers made with cloth that is at least 10oz. I think it will work well as a suit.

 

[Noirkw]

Anyone can advise/point me in the direction on where to purchase some HS crispaire online? Thankyou