Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Crispyj]

Has anyone found photos online of the Marling & Evans Natural jacketing book? I appreciate their recently increased social media presence, but I’d like to be able to look at some of the options that they haven’t highlighted (and have already bothered my tailor enough for other swatches ?).

You can email them and they'll send you a Dropbox link. Can try through this link.

Sign in to Dropbox

 

[Mr. Six]

You can email them and they'll send you a Dropbox link. Can try through this link.

Sign in to Dropbox

Thanks! I couldn’t get in directly through the link but it allowed me to request access.

 

[lordsuperb]

What do you guys think of this cloth?

It is 100% silk and I'd get it made up into a suit for special occasions (weddings, events, that sort of thing - not for the office). I'm wondering if the color is a bit too bright for my intended purpose, though. Any thoughts? @lordsuperb, I'm hoping to get your feedback on this!

I have a mohair suit in this shade of blue and I use it exactly for what you specified. I'm not married and go out often for events so the suit gets a lot use. I'm not sure I'd have a use for it if I wasn't out and about.

 

[brax]

I agree with both of you.

The feeling of the fabric at a substantial weight is very important. If the above-mentioned LL pure cashmere double-faced jacketing fabric is the one that came in brown / grey herringbone and we all admired in our fellow's @Alan Bee astonishing unfunded liabilities pile, indeed, IMO this is destined as a sport coat! I have no information about the weight of this smart and very nice fabric, but I' d very much like to see it as a finished garment.

As an example and only, I was able last year to acquire an overcoating fabric, still unfunded. It is an Ermenegildo Zegna 100% cashmere at 480grams with the characteristic luxurious nap of overcoating fabrics of this quality; this can never become something different that it is destined to be. In contrast, in this year's EZ seasonal collection (Anteprima FW '20-21), one may find a wool-mix overcoating fabric at exactly the same weight (480grams) with no nap at all, dry hand, which gives the impression of a somehow heavier cloth of the ones in the jacketing section; this, under certain circumstances can be contemplated as a sport coat!

Finally, my dear @aristoi bcn, one's prevailing climatological conditions and tolerance to cold will be pivotal to the selection of jacketing and overcoating fabrics for sure! As far as the evolution of the weight of the fabrics is concerned, it is almost unbelievable how lighter the fabrics have became through the years in all cross-sections, due to the urban way of working and living (A/C environments, etc), refined tastes, and climate change, just to name few reasons.

Best,

Dimitris

There may have been more than one double-faced 1000g LL cashmere offering. The one I have is navy and camel. It will not be made into an odd jacket. Rather, it will be an overcoat (details to be determined).

 

[The Chai]

What do you guys think of this cloth?

It is 100% silk and I'd get it made up into a suit for special occasions (weddings, events, that sort of thing - not for the office). I'm wondering if the color is a bit too bright for my intended purpose, though. Any thoughts? @lordsuperb, I'm hoping to get your feedback on this!

I ordered it but it has not arrived yet...will let you know once it does but my understanding is its a navy and not a dark blue...

 

[dan'l]

I have a mohair suit in this shade of blue and I use it exactly for what you specified. I'm not married and go out often for events so the suit gets a lot use. I'm not sure I'd have a use for it if I wasn't out and about.

Thanks for the feedback! Yeah, not sure how often I have such events to go to, so the use may be limited. I had a black tie rig made a couple of years back and have only worn it once.

I ordered it but it has not arrived yet...will let you know once it does but my understanding is its a navy and not a dark blue...

So I‘m not the only one who has been eyeing it! What are you planning to have made and for what sort of occasions?

 

[dan'l]

Almost certainly too aggressive for a suit, but could perhaps work as a summer jacket, tailored soft.

I can see where you‘re coming from. Maybe that‘s an alternative.

 

[The Chai]

Thanks for the feedback! Yeah, not sure how often I have such events to go to, so the use may be limited. I had a black tie rig made a couple of years back and have only worn it once.



So I‘m not the only one who has been eyeing it! What are you planning to have made and for what sort of occasions?

Depending on how dark it is potentially a DJ. Tossing up between a 4x1 shawl or a 3 piece sbpl...I acquired some midnight blue shantung facings so if it is dark enough, it will mos def be a natty dj. But I wear black tie for dancing alot so that option may not apply to you. Definitely getting a 3 roll 2 neapolitan style jacket of some sort...maybe even a field jacket who knows! If it is not dark enough I'm gonna go for a 2 piece DB. I acquired 10 (4 metres for my tailor) metres of the cloth so...lots of options

 

[dan'l]

10 meters!! Wow. I think the cloth looks great on its own, but just having a hard time imagining it made up into something.

 

[The Chai]

10 meters!! Wow. I think the cloth looks great on its own, but just having a hard time imagining it made up into something.

Purple Noon: Alain Delon's Blue Silk Suit » BAMF Style

Vitals Alain Delon as Tom Ripley, charming American con artist and sophisticated sociopath Rome, Italy, August 1959 Film: Purple Noon (French title: Plein soleil) Release Date: March 10, 1960 Director: René Clément Costume Designer: Bella Clément WARNING! Spoilers ahead! Background Today is the...

bamfstyle.com

 

[Bespoke DJP]

There may have been more than one double-faced 1000g LL cashmere offering. The one I have is navy and camel. It will not be made into an odd jacket. Rather, it will be an overcoat (details to be determined).

Dear @brax,

As I already wrote, I have no information pertaining to the weight of these LL offerings, but since you are saying that they are pure cashmere at 1kg (!!!), I think that it goes without saying that they certainly are an overcoating material and only.

BTW, what happened to the DB PoW jacket/coat hybrid that @Despos was making for you? Care for couple of photos of the finished (I presume) garment?

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[brax]

Dear @brax,

As I already wrote, I have no information pertaining to the weight of these LL offerings, but since you are saying that they are pure cashmere at 1kg (!!!), I think that it goes without saying that they certainly are an overcoating material and only.

BTW, what happened to the DB PoW jacket/coat hybrid that @Despos was making for you? Care for couple of photos of the finished (I presume) garment?

Cheers,

Dimitris

Good memory. As the weather cools here I’m sure Despos and I will put that project back on the front burner. I’ll post pictures as soon as I take delivery.

 

[dan'l]

Purple Noon: Alain Delon's Blue Silk Suit » BAMF Style

Vitals Alain Delon as Tom Ripley, charming American con artist and sophisticated sociopath Rome, Italy, August 1959 Film: Purple Noon (French title: Plein soleil) Release Date: March 10, 1960 Director: René Clément Costume Designer: Bella Clément WARNING! Spoilers ahead! Background Today is the...

bamfstyle.com

That‘s a sharp suit, but I think it‘s a darker shade of blue. It‘s also made of Dupioni silk, which is way of out of my league, price-wise!

 

[Marshak]

Good memory. As the weather cools here I’m sure Despos and I will put that project back on the front burner. I’ll post pictures as soon as I take delivery.

The LL cashmere would make a wonderful overcoat.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Good memory. As the weather cools here I’m sure Despos and I will put that project back on the front burner. I’ll post pictures as soon as I take delivery.

Thank you. Well, I keep record of what - at the time - seems interesting, and most of the times I save one-two images as well.

I understand that (due to Covid?) the project has been halted; pictures and comments are more than welcome when the garment will be delivered.

Best,

Dimitris