Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Simon A]

What weights do people recommend for a proper topcoat/overcoat suitable for a Northeast/New England winter?

Given the cost of fabric and bespoke tailoring, a cheap experiment might be in order. You can buy a second-hand heavy woollen overcoat in good order on eBay for less than $100; the vendor can tell you how much the garment weighs and you can work backwards from that as to the fabric weight. Wear it a few times in various cold conditions and see how you handle it. Then make your fabric selection for your bespoke garment and resell the eBay coat (unless you really like it). Good luck!

 

[Petey]

Hi Everyone

Dont mean to distract you all from the current topic.

I live in a mild temp location and was wondering if you could recommend some fabric that drapes well for trouses. Its for work, But the issue with COVID-19 is I would like to find fabric that are machine washable. I'm allergic to chemicals Would anyone know if such fabric exists? I'm in Hong Kong btw. Many thanks

 

[Simon A]

Hi Everyone

Dont mean to distract you all from the current topic.

I live in a mild temp location and was wondering if you could recommend some fabric that drapes well for trouses. Its for work, But the issue with COVID-19 is I would like to find fabric that are machine washable. I'm allergic to chemicals Would anyone know if such fabric exists? I'm in Hong Kong btw. Many thanks

"Washable wool" is used in the ready-to-wear market and is usually half polyester. I used to have some pants made from this material when living in Hong Kong, and they were hotter to wear than pure wool, didn't breathe very well, and didn't look as nice or drape as well as pure wool. You could use pure linen, but the tailor will need to consider the construction and washing instructions so that non-linen waistbands and other fittings don't shrink.

 

[SimonC]

Hi Everyone

Dont mean to distract you all from the current topic.

I live in a mild temp location and was wondering if you could recommend some fabric that drapes well for trouses. Its for work, But the issue with COVID-19 is I would like to find fabric that are machine washable. I'm allergic to chemicals Would anyone know if such fabric exists? I'm in Hong Kong btw. Many thanks

You may already have a tailor, but Luxire offers a ‘washable wool’ which is 70% super 120s and 30% polyester. I have a few pairs for travel around Asia (HK, Singapore etc) and they work well - not too hot to wear, decent drape, and I don’t worry about giving them to hotel laundry if needed.

 

[Petey]

"Washable wool" is used in the ready-to-wear market and is usually half polyester. I used to have some pants made from this material when living in Hong Kong, and they were hotter to wear than pure wool, didn't breathe very well, and didn't look as nice or drape as well as pure wool. You could use pure linen, but the tailor will need to consider the construction and washing instructions so that non-linen waistbands and other fittings don't shrink.

Thanks for your advice. which pure wool fabric would you recommend that is washable? Like you I dont like the feel synthetic material

 

[Petey]

You may already have a tailor, but Luxire offers a ‘washable wool’ which is 70% super 120s and 30% polyester. I have a few pairs for travel around Asia (HK, Singapore etc) and they work well - not too hot to wear, decent drape, and I don’t worry about giving them to hotel laundry if needed.

Thanks! Let me check them out

 

[WilYa]

Recent acquisitions, all vintage
Moxon

G Garnett Sons

HS with cashmere

 

[Simon A]

Thanks for your advice. which pure wool fabric would you recommend that is washable? Like you I dont like the feel synthetic material

Pure wool fabric does not handle being washed very well. Knitwear, yes if by hand, but woven fabric, no.

 

[acapaca]

Pure wool fabric does not handle being washed very well. Knitwear, yes if by hand, but woven fabric, no.

It's neither here nor there, really, but I've often wondered why that is. I've certainly seen a sweater or two of my own shrink like hell from the heat, but I've never seen what happens to a woven cloth. Is it more the agitation that would be the issue, assuming you could otherwise wash in cold and lay flat to dry and such like you would with a delicate sweater?

 

[FlyingHorker]

Pure wool fabric does not handle being washed very well. Knitwear, yes if by hand, but woven fabric, no.

I washed my worsted wool robe using Eucalan, a lanolin wash, and it came out softer and no longer scratched me.

Edit: This was a hand wash with tepid water.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Hi friends

I’m planning to commission a high twist spring/summer suit in light grey and I’m trying to decide between the following books. Appreciate any thoughts

- Smith Woolens Abacus
- Dugdale Tropicalair
- Standeven Explorer
- Fox Air (although mark up is nuts)

I also really like Drapers 4ply, but there doesn’t appear to be the right shade of light/silver grey.

Cheers!

 

[Concordia]

Abacus is new to me. High twist?
Another choice with Smiths is Finmeresco. The High Twist portion of the book is a very elegant and light 10oz.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Abacus is new to me. High twist?
Another choice with Smiths is Finmeresco. The High Twist portion of the book is a very elegant and light 10oz.

Yup I understand Abacus is high twist with a dry hand. Around 11oz I think

I had forgotten about Finmeresco - cheers

 

[mhip]

I have quite a few 100% merino long sleeve polos, crew necks, etc.
I put them individually in a zip mesh laundry bag, wash cold, and then rack dry flat.
I haven't ruined one yet...

 

[zr3rs]

- Smith Woolens Abacus
- Dugdale Tropicalair
- Standeven Explorer
- Fox Air (although mark up is nuts)

Recently had swatches of the light grey Fox and Explorer 310g in hand. Could not distinguish colour (both are beautiful, probably use the same yarn) nor hand, maybe there are microscopic differences. Have good experiences with Fox Air (in charcoal pow) and some lighter weight Explorer. Also good experience with a nice light gray CoolBreeze by h&s, but this book was surprisingly short-lived.

I find light gray too washed out for a whole suit, so I would go for a mid grey pow or puppytooth.