Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[FlyingHorker]

Where can I find cloth like this?

 

[dieworkwear]

Where can I find cloth like this?

I have some overcoating like that. Don't know who made it. I bought it years ago from a vintage fabric shop

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I have some overcoating like that. Don't know who made it. I bought it years ago from a vintage fabric shop

View attachment 1441163
View attachment 1441164

I love a lot of the cloths that have been posted consequent to this discussion. I've become increasingly desirious lately of a paletot in a black-and-white or similar herringbone, akin to this, and even mentioned it to my local tailor. (He didn't know the word paletot, but 'double-breasted 6 x 2 peaked lapel overcoat' will mostly do) It's the sort of thing that I would have been averse to even a few years ago when I believed that overcoat had to be black, unless maybe they were charcoal grey.

I love overcoats; they were the first clothes that I really took any satisfaction in. (I was inordinately proud of my London Fog coat when I was first grade) Makes climate change all the worse to me.

 

[dieworkwear]

I love a lot of the cloths that have been posted consequent to this discussion. I've become increasingly desirious lately of a paletot in a black-and-white or similar herringbone, akin to this, and even mentioned it to my local tailor. (He didn't know the word paletot, but 'double-breasted 6 x 2 peaked lapel overcoat' will mostly do) It's the sort of thing that I would have been averse to even a few years ago when I believed that overcoat had to be black, unless maybe they were charcoal grey.

I love overcoats; they were the first clothes that I really took any satisfaction in. (I was inordinately proud of my London Fog coat when I was first grade) Makes climate change all the worse to me.

Actually for you and @FlyingHorker, now that I think about it, VBC made some overcoatings for Drapers. I remember coming across them at a trunk show. They're a wool-alpaca mix that's similar to the cloth I just posted. Very mottled, uneven herringbone. Very big, chunky herringbone. A bit spongey, if I remember correctly.

I came across the book about three years ago. I don't know if the overcoatings are still around. But if your tailor has access to Drapers overcoatings, it may be worth a look.

I've been sitting on my cloth for something like five or six years. Haven't gotten around to getting it made up. It's very spongey, which gives me a little hesitation. I worry about it being hard to work with. A long time ago, I didn't really think much about how a cloth would "tailor." I figured, well, the person I'm working with is the expert, so I'll leave it to them. But I've found that, if you make things easier for the person, you'll have a better experience. Cloths that are hard to tailor, in my experience, can require more fittings, or they don't hang right, or they have to be sent back for some adjustment. It just ends up being a pain for you and the tailor. This cloth feels like it's so spongey, I worry about it shifting too much when sewing. The Drapers overcoatings may have the same issue, I don't remember.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I have some overcoating like that. Don't know who made it. I bought it years ago from a vintage fabric shop

View attachment 1441163
View attachment 1441164

Damn, this is perfect! Nice find.

I wonder why tweeds like these aren't so common nowadays, and how they're made.

I've seen similiar fabrics in vintage photos.

 

[dieworkwear]

Damn, this is perfect! Nice find.

I wonder why tweeds like these aren't so common nowadays, and how they're made.

I've seen similiar fabrics in vintage photos.

The cloth I have here doesn't even really feel like a tweed. I would compare it more to a soft sweater. One of the reasons why I'm a little hesitant about giving it to a tailor. Also because bespoke overcoats are dearly expensive, and I worry about getting the design right. With a vintage fabric, I also don't have much room for error since I can't get more cloth.

 

[Concordia]

Any recommendations for a good fall/winter weight flannel for a sport coat?

I don’t think I can bring myself to pull the trigger at Fox Bros price point (I’ll see what my tailor can get it for, but I’m not too optimistic it’ll be much cheaper...)

Harrison Oyster/Thistle makes excellent navy serges for blazers if you don’t insist on flannel.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Actually for you and @FlyingHorker, now that I think about it, VBC made some overcoatings for Drapers. I remember coming across them at a trunk show. They're a wool-alpaca mix that's similar to the cloth I just posted. Very mottled, uneven herringbone. Very big, chunky herringbone. A bit spongey, if I remember correctly.

I came across the book about three years ago. I don't know if the overcoatings are still around. But if your tailor has access to Drapers overcoatings, it may be worth a look.

I've been sitting on my cloth for something like five or six years. Haven't gotten around to getting it made up. It's very spongey, which gives me a little hesitation. I worry about it being hard to work with. A long time ago, I didn't really think much about how a cloth would "tailor." I figured, well, the person I'm working with is the expert, so I'll leave it to them. But I've found that, if you make things easier for the person, you'll have a better experience. Cloths that are hard to tailor, in my experience, can require more fittings, or they don't hang right, or they have to be sent back for some adjustment. It just ends up being a pain for you and the tailor. This cloth feels like it's so spongey, I worry about it shifting too much when sewing. The Drapers overcoatings may have the same issue, I don't remember.

The only books my tailor seems to carry are by "Empire" who I think makes some clothing for O'Connell's. He generally doesn't have many overcoating cloths, mainly lighter tweeds for SCs, hence why I've been popping up ITT. That or cashmere, which I'm not interested in.

The bolded exactly describes the way I've been going about things lately, thanks for the tip on that one, I didn't even think about that.

I think I'll play it safe for this overcoat then. Go with the traditional thicker overcoating sample tweeds I ordered from Magee and Yorkshirefabric.

Probably the navy herringbone or black/white herringbone.

The cloth I have here doesn't even really feel like a tweed. I would compare it more to a soft sweater. One of the reasons why I'm a little hesitant about giving it to a tailor. Also because bespoke overcoats are dearly expensive, and I worry about getting the design right. With a vintage fabric, I also don't have much room for error since I can't get more cloth.

I get the hesitance now, unfunded liabilities indeed.

Is it possible to do a muslin fitting for this kind of an overcoat to avoid drape/fit issues with such a cloth?

 

[dieworkwear]

Is it possible to do a muslin fitting for this kind of an overcoat to avoid drape/fit issues with such a cloth?

Yea, I've thought about having that done. I once had a muslin fitting for a pair of trousers. Might do it for an overcoat.

At the moment, I'm having a polo coat made. I assume that project will take me over a year for delivery, given the situation of everything. Probably will hold me over for a while. The polo coat will be pretty standard, so I don't really feel a need for a muslin fitting.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Yea, I've thought about having that done. I once had a muslin fitting for a pair of trousers. Might do it for an overcoat.

At the moment, I'm having a polo coat made. I assume that project will take me over a year for delivery, given the situation of everything. Probably will hold me over for a while. The polo coat will be pretty standard, so I don't really feel a need for a muslin fitting.

Makes sense.

Good luck, definitely curious to see the polo coat if you can post a picture when you get it.

 

[kolecho]

Final call for those who are interested in my Minnis mockleno special run. This is a 310g jacketing cloth done with two thread tones of midnight and light navy threads. The result is a dark navy overall appearance with some variegation up close.

Please PM if interested. Thanks.

 

[Crispyj]

Anyone tried Permanent Style's Escorial Tweed? Worth the price? Alternatives?

420 Blaze it. I paid $420 for 2 meters of the brown. I'll post some pics once I get it. Hopefully, I get my money's worth.

 

[sensuki]

Just listed these cloths from Anglo Italian and Carnet Tallia Delfino for sale:

...

...

www.styleforum.net

I have a MTM jacket made up in this Delfino cloth, but the dark green colour. Beautiful stuff. Great for shoulder seasons and cool summer days.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I took a picture of the Harrison's Moonbeam navy serge I mentioned earlier. For me, this cloth is the best compromise between a traditional serge (normally 100% worsted wool, if I'm not mistaken) and a luxury cashmere like the ones from Loro Piana posted by Despos because it's softer than the former and less delicate and cheaper than the later. Don't get me wrong, I do have 2 cashmere sport coats and another one underway but for a sport coat that you are likely to wear more than once per week the mix of 75% Lambswool and 25% Angora should in principle hold up better and thus last longer than 100% cashmere.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Overcoat will likely be a 22oz Tweed. Thinking of getting the upper back (at least) lined in melton wool for more warmth and windproofing.

It gets really cold here in January, when that icy wind cuts through everything with no effort. Feeling shivers in upper back is not fun.

How thick should it be, and anyone know of an easy source to buy from?

I found some here

Yorkshire Fabric Limited | Cloth Merchant - 22-24oz

Suppliers of the finest 22-24oz cloths. You can buy in cut lengths, half or full pieces. View our complete range by visiting our online shop.

www.yorkshirefabric.com

Though I bought some swatches and only read the terrible CS and shipping time reviews after.