Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]

Doesn't look like I can buy directly off the website, not sure how this works.

You have to go through an agent. The one closest to you is Kemp and Hewitt ([email protected]). However, I think the price of those cloths will be higher than what you've budgeted.

 

[FlyingHorker]

You have to go through an agent. The one closest to you is Kemp and Hewitt ([email protected]). However, I think the price of those cloths will be higher than what you've budgeted.

Gotcha, sounds like a pain.

Thanks for the info.

 

[dieworkwear]

Gotcha, sounds like a pain **********.

Thanks for the info.

I think if you get a navy coat in the design you posted, you're better off with a fabric like this:

A blue tweed can work for something like a sport coat. But for an overcoat, the color feels neither here nor there. If you want a tweed coat in the design you posted, I would go with a traditional tweed color, such as brown or grey.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I think if you get a navy coat in the design you posted, you're better off with a fabric like this:

View attachment 1437778


A blue tweed can work for something like a sport coat. But for an overcoat, the color feels neither here nor there. If you want a tweed coat in the design you posted, I would go with a traditional tweed color, such as brown or grey.

Eh, plain navy herringbone seems really dull to me and too formal for my wardrobe.

I already own a rust mid-brown overcoat, and have a grey peacoat, so a lot of that would be redundant for my wardrobe.

I've been leaning towards this colour from magee

It seems to lack the teal, is darker than mid-blue, but more interesting than plain navy.

I'm basically looking for a more interesting SB counterpart to the rust coat up there.

 

[Simon A]

Eddie Doherty in Donegal is a handweaver and makes some nice blue herringbones. You could contact him and see what he has in stock.

 

[classicalthunde]

What are you looking for in terms of color/ pattern/ weight?

probably leaning towards a winter standard navy blazer with patch and flap pockets, a distant second choice would be a larger grey PoW check with patch pockets

not sure how weight impacts warmth with flannel as compared to tweed, but would guess somewhere in the 370-500g/m range...would most likely wear between late oct and early March in the northeast

 

[lordsuperb]

probably leaning towards a winter standard navy blazer with patch and flap pockets, a distant second choice would be a larger grey PoW check with patch pockets

not sure how weight impacts warmth with flannel as compared to tweed, but would guess somewhere in the 370-500g/m range...would most likely wear between late oct and early March in the northeast

Porter and Harding glenroyal is what you want.

 

[Despos]

Not a fan of using flannel as a jacket. Has a suit connotation. It has a fuzzy mill finish but no interesting texture for an odd jacket/blazer.
Doesn't work with that many types of cloth for trousers.
Navy flannel is a total lint magnet.

Loro Piana Jackets & Trouser book 685 has three good patterns to consider

Basket weave
Herringbones
Dense twill weave in 5 shades of blue. Color doesn't come thru well but you can see
the weave

W.Bill Phoenix book has good choices of Barleycorn pattern in a few navy shades

 

[classicalthunde]

Not a fan of using flannel as a jacket. Has a suit connotation. It has a fuzzy mill finish but no interesting texture for an odd jacket/blazer.
Doesn't work with that many types of cloth for trousers.
Navy flannel is a total lint magnet.

Loro Piana Jackets & Trouser book 685 has three good patterns to consider

Basket weave
Herringbones
Dense twill weave in 5 shades of blue. Color doesn't come thru well but you can see
the weave
View attachment 1440678
W.Bill Phoenix book has good choices of Barleycorn pattern in a few navy shades

thanks for the input! I really like that twill one!

I used to have a heavier doeskin blazer in high school that I wanted to try and re-create, but a little more on the casual and comfortable side

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

probably leaning towards a winter standard navy blazer with patch and flap pockets, a distant second choice would be a larger grey PoW check with patch pockets

not sure how weight impacts warmth with flannel as compared to tweed, but would guess somewhere in the 370-500g/m range...would most likely wear between late oct and early March in the northeast

I really like the Bateman-Ogden Apollo book, which might offer something appropriate. I had my blazer made in navy twill, but they also have each color in hopsack and barathea weaves at 415 - 430 grams.

 

[The Chai]

Any recommendations for a good fall/winter weight flannel for a sport coat?

I don’t think I can bring myself to pull the trigger at Fox Bros price point (I’ll see what my tailor can get it for, but I’m not too optimistic it’ll be much cheaper...)

Hainsworth navy serge

 

[Fonz4]

Anyone know where I can get a full list of Marling & Evans Natural bunch? M&E is on vacation until Aug 24th.

I might have the whole bunch at home. I should check.

 

[Despos]

thanks for the input! I really like that twill one!

I used to have a heavier doeskin blazer in high school that I wanted to try and re-create, but a little more on the casual and comfortable side

Loro Piana isn’t the only company making a twill cloth like this. You can find it in other lines. Drapers has it.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Harrison's has a navy serge in a mix of lambswool and angora in its Moonbeam range that may fit the bill, too.

 

[Crispyj]

Anyone tried Permanent Style's Escorial Tweed? Worth the price? Alternatives?