Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

I'll be going to see Joseph Genuardi in roughly a week and a half, God willing and the... number of states with mandatory quarantine requirements in New Jersey and New York don't rise, for a final fitting on a suit and blazer that I commissioned last September as well as to commission another pair of garments.

One will be a green hopsack jacket (Bateman Ogden Apollo AA9) of some kind, but I've flip flopped on the suit so many times that I might as well be a junior United States Senator from Utah. (I'm also a little drunk.. which is the only reason that I can explain that last sentence) It's been constantly meant as a warm weather suit, but keep changing my mind on the color.

What my present fancy inclines me to want to know is about blue, purportedly 'petrol blue', solar cloth. I've dredged a few references thereto out of this place and think that it might nicely fit my sensibilities. I like blue and I've been curious about Solaro for a while. To that end, I pose the following questions about the potentially available cloths:

1. Who offers Blue Solaro (*achem* suncloth, in case any Smith Woolens lawyers are watching)?
1.a Who offers linen or relatively lighter, more openly woven Solaro cloths? (I've seen references to these being available from Drapers *** Vitale Barberis Canonico, Caccio… e pepe and perhaps Ariston, but I failed to find these cloths on their respective websites. Ultimately, I want to know what bunch books to look in for expediency's sake.

2. How suitable to relatively warmer* weather is it, really? (I've gathered the impression, much as a cave man does not gather nuts and berries, that the 'authentic original' Smith Woolens Solaro cloth is a little heavy and dense for the season, but that doesn't meant that the alternatives are in fact appropriate.)

3. Are there any practical problems inherent in the fabric to be aware of? (I know that it's a little idiosyncratic, which it should be by now screamingly blatant that I don't mind, but if it's prone to… I don't know.. literally bursting into flames due to thigh rub or whatever, I would do well to be aware.)

*As a fat Pennsylvanian, I'm inclined to consider anything from 65°F (18.333°C) upward 'warm', with anything from 80°F (26.667°C) as reason to wonder if being born was worth having to endure such existential suffering. (Answer: No.) However, likewise appreciate that I am also psychotically stubborn and would soldier on wearing heavy tweed on the sun.

TOFANI BESPOKE TAILOR NAPOLI

A single breasted version of your jacket in the same Minnis Mock Leno will be on my next commission list. Cashmere Mock Leno?

www.styleforum.net

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Drapers makes it. A lovely fabric, I’ll be getting a DB suit probably for next spring/summer. I’ll see if I can find a photo. Alternatively I think @Despos has the book...?

I'm pleased to hear you speak well of it; it's a very interesting cloth. How does it wear in warmer months and behave generally?

 

[sensuki]

Ended up not getting flannel trousers this time around (probably next time though) and ordered a pair in Caccioppoli Covert 440g (the lighter of the two charcoals). I bought a swatch of the Drapers covert 440g to the appointment and it was the same as the Caccioppoli but slightly different dye lot. The Caccioppoli is apparently cheaper too.

580327 Worsted & Flannels – AVAILABLE – Caccioppoli Napoli | Shop

www.caccioppolinapoli.it

 

[UrbanComposition]

I'm pleased to hear you speak well of it; it's a very interesting cloth. How does it wear in warmer months and behave generally?

I haven’t had anything made up in it yet, but I’m sure it’ll be fine for San Francisco summers (generally low 70’s Fahrenheit). It’s not lightweight at all...about 11/12oz IIRC.

 

[yywwyy]

A couple of completions with cacciopoli summer jacketing that I am loving. Details in my Instagram.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I haven’t had anything made up in it yet, but I’m sure it’ll be fine for San Francisco summers (generally low 70’s Fahrenheit). It’s not lightweight at all...about 11/12oz IIRC.

I understand now. Alas, I live in Philadelphia, where summers are more aggressive. (It's 95 °F [35 °C] right now and we're barely into July!) Of course, in my case, bloody-minded stubbornness often trumps breathability or comfort I'll just have to see if Mr. Genuardi has the relevant bunch books and get a feel of it for myself. If it doesn't work out, I have a plan B, C and maybe D.

 

[classicalthunde]

I understand now. Alas, I live in Philadelphia, where summers are more aggressive. (It's 95 °F [35 °C] right now and we're barely into July!)

Don’t forget the crippling humidity!

 

[Despos]

Ended up not getting flannel trousers this time around (probably next time though) and ordered a pair in Caccioppoli Covert 440g (the lighter of the two charcoals). I bought a swatch of the Drapers covert 440g to the appointment and it was the same as the Caccioppoli but slightly different dye lot. The Caccioppoli is apparently cheaper too.

580327 Worsted & Flannels – AVAILABLE – Caccioppoli Napoli | Shop

www.caccioppolinapoli.it

this makes a great grey twill trouser. Have made up several. Clients are happy with this weight and cloth

 

[Despos]

Caccioppoli blue Solaro cloth, 9 ounce weight.
Will be made up SBPL. Perfect shade of blue/grey with a muted amber undertone.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I'm having made two pairs of trousers by Marco Cerrato with the following whipcords

. Opinions? Wanted something for Winter when it's raining that doesn't require as much ironing as flannel.

 

[Despos]

@aristoi bcn
Like every cloth I used from the Smith Luxury Flannel book.
Great book and great cloth!

 

[aristoi bcn]

@aristoi bcn
Like every cloth I used from the Smith Luxury Flannel book.
Great book and great cloth!

It's indeed a particular book as it includes worsteds, worsted and woollen flannels, solaro and whipcords.

I've got swatches of the lightest worsted flannels that feel delicious to the touch but I fear too delicate. Imo, this is the cloth to pair with the worsted cashmeres from the Millionare (Harrison's) bunch:

 

[Despos]

Flannel loses so much body at that weight. Personally think 9 ounce flannel works better as a jacket than a trouser. Flannel nap wears down and the cloth wears thin. Lacks durability. Think this would be accelerated on a 9 ounce cloth

 

[jonathanS]

Flannel loses so much body at that weight. Personally think 9 ounce flannel works better as a jacket than a trouser. Flannel nap wears down and the cloth wears thin. Lacks durability. Think this would be accelerated on a 9 ounce cloth

My understanding was that you want at least 13oz (400 grams) for flannels, 15oz is even better.

 

[undertheskin]

Hey guys, hope you can help me out.

I am looking for a dark brown glencheck tweed jacketing 400-550 g/m.
Something like the Marling&Evans undyed wool but heavier and maybe fuzzier.
Does someone of you know of a fabric that could fit the description?