Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[rjkabk]

Definitely interested in Harrisons Premier Cru. The Charcoal and the next darkest grey look about what I'm looking for. Will have to see them in person. I have considered nailhead in the past, but for this suit, I'm looking for something more dressy like the sharkskin. I do appreciate the suggestion though.

Out of curiosity do you still have any presence in Dallas? Or, if not, any recommendations for suit tailors in the Dallas/Fort Worth area? Thanks again![/QUOTE]

 

[konstantis]

Definitely interest ested in Harrisons Premier Cru. The Charcoal and the next darkest grey look about what I'm looking for. Will have to see them in person. I have considered nailhead in the past, but for this suit, I'm looking for something more dressy like the sharkskin. I do appreciate the suggestion though.

Out of curiosity do you still have any presence in Dallas? Or, if not, any recommendations for suit tailors in the Dallas/Fort Worth area? Thanks again!

[/QUOTE]
Dugdale English & Town Classics has greys and navy’s sharkskins. Also Huddersfield Fine Worsted (Gladson) has sharkskins in their Classic II bunch.

 

[konstantis]

These are from Harrisons Premier Cru. If your tailor can get Ariston then he can get Harrisons; same distributor. 330g, 11 ounce, small touch of cashmere. One of my favorite cloths to make up. This is part of the sharkskin range, also a range of blues. Comparison of the shades of grey. Charcoal on the left to a rich dark brown on the far right.
View attachment 1401022
Use this cloth the most from this book and worth a look. Dark grey nailhead. Great dark grey multi purpose suit. A step less dressy than sharkskin but I think that adds to the versatility. Picture isn't accurate; it is darker than the picture renders and has less contrast of colors, but you get the idea.
View attachment 1401023

May I ask your personal preference about sharkskin and nailhead? I am thinking of making two suits : One dark grey and one navy. For the gray I have decide to go with a grey sharkskin but I can’t decide which pattern to use for the navy. What is your point of view between navy sharkskin vs navy nailhead ? Do you think one colour is looking better than the other for nailhead pattern ? Thank you once again.

 

[Concordia]

Navy nailhead (or birdseye, which some would call that pattern) won’t be quite so dressy as navy sharkskin, but it will be a bit more so than the grey birdseye. The color is a bit more uniform, so while it may feel very relaxed, it won’t have such an obvious texture. I have a DB suit made from navy birdseye Golden Bale, and it does quite well whenever I need a dressy suit for the evening.

 

[sensuki]

I think you've misinterpreted my point. I'm saying that jeans look better when they don't fit well. (Putting a sharper point on it, but that's generally what I'm saying). The leg twisting, the crumpled seat, the stretching, the rough fading, etc are all part of what makes jeans look like jeans.

This is the clean fit on the back of Chad Prom's jeans. Aside from the color, these just end up looking like dad jeans. I think that would be true even if they were darker.

Late to the party here. I own a few Chad Prom jean models (along with the cords, flannels and pleated cotton trousers). I've tried all of the jeans except the original model. I didn't like the Largo (their latest one), ordered it and returned it.

I have the dark wash pair of the light wash jeans in the original post and it is hands down the best pair of jeans I have owned. I loved them so much I ordered a second pair, and I don't wear mine with a jacket. I think your issue is with the styling photos.

Here, Steve Calder wears the same pair that I have (the dark wash) in a different style





My first pair is over 2 years old and is beat to ****. The seat was a touch snug initially but it stretched out after a few weeks - the most noticeable thing about the pair in the photos is the cut of the leg, it stands out above everything else (rise, seat etc). I think it looks great and it's also super comfortable (no more tapered jeans for me). The fading on mine isn't as pretty as a lot of the selvedge denim I have seen, however.

 

[konstantis]

Has anyone ever made an overcoat from Marling Evans undyed collection ? I have some swatches at 24/25 oz and they are really beautiful. I was thinking something in a large scale herringbone as the attached photo. What’s the members opinion ? Thanks.

Anyone ?

 

[konstantis]

Marling & Evans has the Naturals collection, with undyed wool at 360g for jacketing and 720g for coating. Collection not online currently but you can see some in their facebook posts and their IG View attachment 1342732 .

We have the book, but in the shop, and I write from home.

I have a coat made by our company (Kent Wang) in a M&E large format brown and gray check that everyone remarks upon.

May i ask how you find the undyed collection of Marling Evans ? I am thinking to commit a project for a jacket and an overcoat. Thank you.

 

[imatlas]

I don’t have one, but they are on my shortlist if I decide to get one made up. Not at that weight, though, that would be insane for San Francisco

 

[circumspice]

B&Tailor had some Marling Evans stuff in RTW last fall. I think the bolder stuff works better as overcoating than jacketing, but it skews a bit light - the white pulls the color pretty light

 

[brax]

These are from Harrisons Premier Cru. If your tailor can get Ariston then he can get Harrisons; same distributor. 330g, 11 ounce, small touch of cashmere. One of my favorite cloths to make up. This is part of the sharkskin range, also a range of blues. Comparison of the shades of grey. Charcoal on the left to a rich dark brown on the far right.
View attachment 1401022
Use this cloth the most from this book and worth a look. Dark grey nailhead. Great dark grey multi purpose suit. A step less dressy than sharkskin but I think that adds to the versatility. Picture isn't accurate; it is darker than the picture renders and has less contrast of colors, but you get the idea.
View attachment 1401023

While not a great picture, I wore this Despos navy Harrisons Premier Cru recently. I love it for important, evening social events.

 

[driving glove]

Coherence between quality of cloth, tailoring, and seating. Assume beverage met the same standard.

 

[aaronatKW]

May i ask how you find the undyed collection of Marling Evans ? I am thinking to commit a project for a jacket and an overcoat. Thank you.

I posted a photo of my Marling & Evans Natural Collection coat back here. I like it a lot. It is rather warm, since the thick cloth is such good insulation. Note that the collection includes 360g jacketing and 720g coating. The supersize patterns are in the coating. The jacketing patterns, the herringbones and diamond weaves etc, are the size you would expect.

 

[konstantis]

I posted a photo of my Marling & Evans Natural Collection coat back here. I like it a lot. It is rather warm, since the thick cloth is such good insulation. Note that the collection includes 360g jacketing and 720g coating. The supersize patterns are in the coating. The jacketing patterns, the herringbones and diamond weaves etc, are the size you would expect.

I have swatches of all the weights and patterns. I like it because it reminds me an old school cloth. Just wondering how you find the quality of the cloth. Beautiful cost by the way.

 

[brax]

Coherence between quality of cloth, tailoring, and seating. Assume beverage met the same standard.

My wife has introduced me to amaros. Really enjoy a sipping shot at the end of an evening.

 

[Despos]

My wife has introduced me to amaros. Really enjoy a sipping shot at the end of an evening.
View attachment 1405244

Discovered amaro in the last year as well.