Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

Luckily I live in a 4 season climate, and can get away with tweed for roughly half of the year. Working on a college campus helps as well...

Arguably can one truly call themselves a SF member until they have acquired a 3 roll 2 Neapolitan styled tweed jacket...it’s like the styleforum starter pack alongside the oxford button down and suede loafers is it not?

 

[konstantis]

Just received another unfunded liability - a russet brown Harris Tweed from Urgha Loom Shed. I don't think my old iphone camera does it justice, but its got a lot of fun color variations close up. This one'll probably sit on the shelf for a while since I have a Kent Wang rust color tweed that still has some life in it, but this is a color I love and it was a small limited run at ULS so I decided to snap it up. I'm amazed at how affordable buying independently produced Harris Tweed is!

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I think we have the same fabric. The photos don’t justice its beauty. It’s a rich warm brown. At the last photo with a Lovat swatch.

 

[dukeaw]

See this photo of one of my recent commissions in progress by my local tailor. It is a brown (tobacco) linen suit. Made from the Spence Bryson tropical line. It is the shade Earth. It matches the W Bill Tobacco swatch I have almost exactly. I am also having a suit made in their tropical navy. There was a delay due to the shutdown. They should be done next week.

 

[konstantis]

See this photo of one of my recent commissions in progress by my local tailor. It is a brown (tobacco) linen suit. Made from the Spence Bryson tropical line. It is the shade Earth. It matches the W Bill Tobacco swatch I have almost exactly. I am also having a suit made in their tropical navy. There was a delay due to the shutdown. They should be done next week.

May I ask what your tailor think about Spence Bryson Tropical linens? Thank you.

 

[Concordia]

I think we have the same fabric. The photos don’t justice it’s beauty. It’s a rich warm brown. At the last photo with a Lovat swatch.

Super. Is that on the website, or did you do a special deal?

 

[classicalthunde]

Super. Is that on the website, or did you do a special deal?

The website is: https://urghaloomshed.com/

They are typically short runs, so I’d follow on Instagram for updates and what’s coming down the pike

 

[Captain Grimes]

The Urgha Loom shed Harris is fantastic - I had an odd jacket made of the Russet Brown by Brian Smith, and it's great. I think Joanne is not going to produce the traditional Harris any longer, so it's worth getting any if you can.

Does anyone have experience of Hunter's of Brora tweed from post 2003, when the original mill closed? I know tweed was produced under the name subsequently, I think under a different mill, before disappearing again. But I would be curious to know the quality and provenance of that cloth - also if there was any continuity in the personnel responsible for making it after the pre-2003 Hunter's entity folded.

Finally, thanks to Concordia for your tip on the Fox Flannel serge earlier in this thread. I have a blazer in the works from Steed at present from the cloth.

Many thanks

 

[konstantis]

The Urgha Loom shed Harris is fantastic - I had an odd jacket made of the Russet Brown by Brian Smith, and it's great. I think Joanne is not going to produce the traditional Harris any longer, so it's worth getting any if you can.

Does anyone have experience of Hunter's of Brora tweed from post 2003, when the original mill closed? I know tweed was produced under the name subsequently, I think under a different mill, before disappearing again. But I would be curious to know the quality and provenance of that cloth - also if there was any continuity in the personnel responsible for making it after the pre-2003 Hunter's entity folded.

Finally, thanks to Concordia for your tip on the Fox Flannel serge earlier in this thread. I have a blazer in the works from Steed at present from the cloth.

Many thanks

Why Joanne is going to stop produce the traditional Harris Tweed ?

 

[dukeaw]

May I ask what your tailor think about Spence Bryson Tropical linens? Thank you.

in what capacity? Its ease to work with, its aesthetic? Can you qualify your question with a bit more clarity? I'm seeing him tomorrow or Friday. Thanks

 

[classicalthunde]

Why Joanne is going to stop produce the traditional Harris Tweed ?

She posted on IG about it at the outbreak of the pandemic. From my understanding to do HT you need to order the yarn from one of the three main mills and the send the tweed to them for finishing...I think she is looking to expand to different yarns and finishing mills, so it might not be “HarrisTweed” per se, but something adjacent made in Harris with yarn from someone else and finished somewhere else.

 

[Captain Grimes]

She posted on IG about it at the outbreak of the pandemic. From my understanding to do HT you need to order the yarn from one of the three main mills and the send the tweed to them for finishing...I think she is looking to expand to different yarns and finishing mills, so it might not be “HarrisTweed” per se, but something adjacent made in Harris with yarn from someone else and finished somewhere else.

Yes that what I was thinking of - I recalled she might be making a different type of cloth / tweed, rather than a similar formula with different yarns. I suppose best to ask her directly.

 

[konstantis]

in what capacity? Its ease to work with, its aesthetic? Can you qualify your question with a bit more clarity? I'm seeing him tomorrow or Friday. Thanks

i would like his opinion about how easy is to work with it ? Thanks.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Do you know any mill/weaver doing Shetland Tweed? I think Jamieson's only produces the yarn and the only book I know is the W.Bill one but looking for other designs, particularly gunclub checks.

 

[classicalthunde]

Do you know any mill/weaver doing Shetland Tweed? I think Jamieson's only produces the yarn and the only book I know is the W.Bill one but looking for other designs, particularly gunclub checks.

I believe they are a merchant and not a mill/weaver, but Abraham Moon has a number of shetland tweeds

 

[dukeaw]

i would like his opinion about how easy is to work with it ? Thanks.

He basically said its not as easy to work with as wool. pressed in creases dont iron out as easily. They're able to take in fabric during the fittings but want to avoid letting out fabric. Limited basting stitching because they will leave more permanent marks. Its a fabric they can still work well with, just with more care than wool.