Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[TweedyProf]

I suppose one option I have not explored sufficiently is wool-silk-linen fabrics...thoughts?

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks Concordia. Point taken: I'll eliminate the finmeresco and focus on the mock leno or leno weave. I'll look at the Spring Ram as well. Please do let me know, if you remember, how it feels in the fitting.

I’d say the 4 ply is also a suiting fabric, no? My understanding is that, while 4 ply is breathable, it still runs hot on hot summer days.

 

[Concordia]

Some of the Italian mills have loosely woven linen, which can look nice but is aiming for something different. I have an old wool/silk/linen tweed; one of my first jackets from Hitchcock, as it happens. Pretty good through an English spring, and parts of the summer as well. But it's not really built for maximum coolness in the dog days.

 

[Concordia]

Thanks Concordia. Point taken: I'll eliminate the finmeresco and focus on the mock leno or leno weave. I'll look at the Spring Ram as well. Please do let me know, if you remember, how it feels in the fitting.

Now it appears they have completely changed the Spring Ram book since I made my order in the winter. A lot more patterns, only one "stitched hopsack", and that one seems to be a heavier weight. Also, all different catalogue numbers. Anyway, still worth a look. And don't give up on the High Twist Finmeresco. It might be exactly what you need.

 

[aristoi bcn]

What would be the summer equivalent of a flecked grey Thornproof Tweed made as a Friday suit?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Hi,

Generally, a linen suit could be considered as a summer equivalent of what you've posted.

Due to its grey color however, I am inclined to say wool/silk/linen, as both the color palette can offer choices (in linen these are very limited), and the texture can be really interesting as well.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Mr. Six]

I suppose one option I have not explored sufficiently is wool-silk-linen fabrics...thoughts?

Take a look at Caccioppoli and Drapers online offerings for w-s-l. Steed has a Drapers account but not many of the books. They don't have a Caccioppoli account, but you could order it directly from the Caccioppoli website and hand it off to Steed.

Drapers is missing photos for a lot of stuff on their website, but they have a few things that might work, like this: https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/25024/. But what you probably want is in the Estate in Seta e Lino book (a couple photos below).

Caccioppoli has some options like this:

300135 Bunch Jackets – AVAILABLE – Caccioppoli Napoli | Shop

.

 

[RogerC]

The new Mare book by Loro Piana (which can be browsed on the Hall Madden website) also has a number of nicely textured wool/silk/linen/cotton blends in various compositions. That Thornproof is on my list for a winter happy suit, by the way.

 

[RogerC]

(Double post deleted)

 

[aristoi bcn]

Hi,

Generally, a linen suit could be considered as a summer equivalent of what you've posted.

Due to its grey color however, I am inclined to say wool/silk/linen, as both the color palette can offer choices (in linen these are very limited), and the texture can be really interesting as well.

Best,

Dimitris

Hi Dimitris,

To me, linen is to summer what corduroy is to winter. Normally made in plain colours that work both as suit or as separates.

The problem with w/s/l blends is their durability and drape as trousers.

The new Mare book by Loro Piana (which can be browsed on the Hall Madden website) also has a number of nicely textured wool/silk/linen/cotton blends in various compositions. That Thornproof is on my list for a winter happy suit, by the way.

Would you have made a suit in a blend cloth like the ones in the Mare book? Or only jacket?

 

[classicalthunde]

@jdp234 was digging through the thread for older linen discussions and came across this image you posted a while ago, I love the color of this...do you happen to recall what the specific fabric is (mill/merchant, ref number, weight, etc?)

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @aristoi bcn,

Hi again,

The Drapers bunch that @Mr. Six posted above was one of the two that I had in mind, as I remember that couple of years ago, a fellow from Australia (MD if my memory helps) had made a suit from a green fabric from this bunch and he was really happy with the outcome; truth is that he hasn't posted anything in this Thread for some time now, so we can say nothing as to his view concerning the durability of the garment. More to that, AFAIK this Drapers bunch is now sold out.

The second bunch of suiting w-s-l that I was thinking about was (again) made by VBC, NMWA Greg had posted a picture of the bunch with all colors in plain view. Since I have saved it in my image data base, if you wish to take a look and keep a note of the fabric codes, just say the word and I will re-post it here.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[aristoi bcn]

Dear @aristoi bcn,

Hi again,

The Drapers bunch that @Mr. Six posted above was one of the two that I had in mind, as I remember that couple of years ago, a fellow from Australia (MD if my memory helps) had made a suit from a green fabric from this bunch and he was really happy with the outcome; truth is that he hasn't posted anything in this Thread for some time now, so we can say nothing as to his view concerning the durability of the garment. More to that, AFAIK this Drapers bunch is now sold out.

The second bunch of suiting w-s-l that I was thinking about was (again) made by VBC, NMWA Greg had posted a picture of the bunch with all colors in plain view. Since I have saved it in my image data base, if you wish to take a look and keep a note of the fabric codes, just say the word and I will re-post it here.

Best,

Dimitris

Hi,

I think I remember that green suit, from B&Tailor if memory serves.

Regarding the VBC, yes, I'd appreciate if you can point me out in which post can be found or if you don't mind post it here...

Thanks a lot again.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Hey, don't mention it, you are very welcome!

Here they are:

Best,

Dimitris

 

[jdp234]

@jdp234 was digging through the thread for older linen discussions and came across this image you posted a while ago, I love the color of this...do you happen to recall what the specific fabric is (mill/merchant, ref number, weight, etc?)

I don't have a ref (it's from @spiermackay who might be able to help you though). It's heavy Irish (or Irish-ish) linen from Minnis, likely in the 12oz range.