Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]

Fair enough, but would you call the cloth posted by Aaron a check or houndstooth?

Not sure if you're referring to Kent's post, but houndstooth is a type of check. Hence the term "houndstooth check." I think either is correct. Although, if you were communicating to a popular audience, it's probably better to use the term houndstooth to avoid confusion.

Sort of like how glen plaid is a type of tartan, but if you said that, some people would be confused. The "glen" in "glen check/ glen plaid" refers to the Urquhart clan of the Glen area of Scotland. But people think the word tartan refers to the kind of brightly colored red checks you see in Scottish shops, not the checks on a suit.

Adding: does anyone have a recommendation for a suiting/ jacketing weight for covert cloth? I'm thinking about getting a covert cloth suit. I've seen suiting weight covert from VBC, but am trying to source something CMT so I can take it to a tailor. I don't believe VBC sells direct and I'm not sure what coverts this tailor has access to. Would like to do a little legwork before my meeting with this tailor.

 

[Fonz4]

What do you recommend for a mid seasons sport coat?

 

[The Chai]

Not sure if you're referring to Kent's post, but houndstooth is a type of check. Hence the term "houndstooth check." I think either is correct. Although, if you were communicating to a popular audience, it's probably better to use the term houndstooth to avoid confusion.

Sort of like how glen plaid is a type of tartan, but if you said that, some people would be confused. The "glen" in "glen check/ glen plaid" refers to the Urquhart clan of the Glen area of Scotland. But people think the word tartan refers to the kind of brightly colored red checks you see in Scottish shops, not the checks on a suit.

Adding: does anyone have a recommendation for a suiting/ jacketing weight for covert cloth? I'm thinking about getting a covert cloth suit. I've seen suiting weight covert from VBC, but am trying to source something CMT so I can take it to a tailor. I don't believe VBC sells direct and I'm not sure what coverts this tailor has access to. Would like to do a little legwork before my meeting with this tailor.

Abraham moon or Huddersfield for the covert cloth

 

[aaronatKW]

Adding: does anyone have a recommendation for a suiting/ jacketing weight for covert cloth? I'm thinking about getting a covert cloth suit. I've seen suiting weight covert from VBC, but am trying to source something CMT so I can take it to a tailor. I don't believe VBC sells direct and I'm not sure what coverts this tailor has access to. Would like to do a little legwork before my meeting with this tailor.

Huddersfield Fine Worsted/Gladson has some 340g venetians and 340g calvary twills in their Eskdale range. Gladson is HFW's American face, but the HFW site has more specs.

Holland & Sherry's Dakota range has the most colorways I have seen in cavalry twills. 420g.

Dormeuil has a whipcord, I read, but I can't find it on their site.

The Abraham Moon Cavalry Twills are on the heavy side, 610g. Their Covert is lighter, 470g.

 

[Despos]

sources for a couple of cloths asked for in this thread
This herringbone measures 1.5 between the lines or 3" for the total chevron width.

This is a large plaid in the same book, comes in more than one color

 

[Despos]

This is the current Holland & Sherry Topcoat book that still has the 28 ounce cloth in taupe.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Despos,

Could you please post the composition and weight of the above Drapers herringbone overcoating fabric?

Thank you in advance,

Dimitris

 

[Despos]

From memory around 17 ounce. Won’t see the book for a few days, will update if the weight is different than I remember

 

[TweedyProf]

Ok, I've collected some possible fabrics for the navy summer blazer, based on earlier recs. Thanks again.

This is just to see if any of you might remember using either the specific fabric or something in that range and have a comment. I aim to have samples sent soon. I'm gravitating towards a heavier cloth that breathes well. I don't expect you to remember the exact cloth you've used, but you might have further thoughts on source, weave, weight etc. Some of you were in the process of commissioning or fitting coats in the cloths below, so perhaps have new thoughts.

Cheers, TP.

Smith Woolens
Finmeresco SW 27016 or 27017 300 - 310gms / 10 - 11ozs High Twist

SW2742 350gms / 12 - 13ozs Mock Leno 100% Merino Wool

Finmeresco SW 2706 360 - 390gms / 13ozs 4 Ply

SW2742/3 350gms / 12 - 13ozs Mock Leno

Dugdale Tropicalair: SKU 4612 Bunch 164 Weight: 11.9oz / 340grams

H&S: HS2030 Bunch: Navy Mesh Solid Product Code: 3020003 Weight: 280gm 9oz

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Much appreciated @Despos - the H&S is nice but I fear too heavy for the Aussie climate.

Do you have any experience with Leichtfried’s loden overcoat fabrics?

 

[kolecho]

Ok, I've collected some possible fabrics for the navy summer blazer, based on earlier recs. Thanks again.

This is just to see if any of you might remember using either the specific fabric or something in that range and have a comment. I aim to have samples sent soon. I'm gravitating towards a heavier cloth that breathes well. I don't expect you to remember the exact cloth you've used, but you might have further thoughts on source, weave, weight etc. Some of you were in the process of commissioning or fitting coats in the cloths below, so perhaps have new thoughts.

Cheers, TP.

Smith Woolens
Finmeresco SW 27016 or 27017 300 - 310gms / 10 - 11ozs High Twist

SW2742 350gms / 12 - 13ozs Mock Leno 100% Merino Wool

Finmeresco SW 2706 360 - 390gms / 13ozs 4 Ply

SW2742/3 350gms / 12 - 13ozs Mock Leno

Dugdale Tropicalair: SKU 4612 Bunch 164 Weight: 11.9oz / 340grams

H&S: HS2030 Bunch: Navy Mesh Solid Product Code: 3020003 Weight: 280gm 9oz

I would add a wool/mohair mock leno for consideration. William Halstead makes them. Wears cool and crisp and is very wrinkle resistant.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @TweedyProf,

Hi, it's been a long time!

Certainly, I do not know your climatological conditions and your tolerance to heat, but are you really considering circa 350grams, let alone 390grams of jacketing cloth, no matter how open-weaved it is, for a summer blazer?

I reckon that you travel to Europe for conferences, etc, so I cannot even imagine being in Spain, Italy, or even Germany (see what happened last summer) with such a "summer" blazer!

You asked for our thoughts!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Concordia]

Some of what you have there are more suiting-- although if it is really for the dead of summer, nobody will mind. The high-twist 10oz Finmeresco is my main target there. Fantastic suiting, but pretty free of obvious texture.

There are two blazer fabrics in the Harrisons Spring Ram collection. I have a fitting in one of them coming soon. That's about 13oz, but still a very open weave. If you're leaning toward heavier weight, consider that.

Otherwise, the mock lenos are perhaps your most obvious choice.

 

[TweedyProf]

Dear @TweedyProf,

Hi, it's been a long time!

Certainly, I do not know your climatological conditions and your tolerance to heat, but are you really considering circa 350grams, let alone 390grams of jacketing cloth, no matter how open-weaved it is, for a summer blazer?

I reckon that you travel to Europe for conferences, etc, so I cannot even imagine being in Spain, Italy, or even Germany (see what happened last summer) with such a "summer" blazer!

You asked for our thoughts!

Cheers,

Dimitris

Hi Dimitris

Thanks for your thoughts. I am in London now for most of the year, but will be venturing into Europe unless the continent becomes a hot zone (fingers crossed that things will "cool down" wrt the virus). I'll lower the weight!

 

[TweedyProf]

Some of what you have there are more suiting-- although if it is really for the dead of summer, nobody will mind. The high-twist 10oz Finmeresco is my main target there. Fantastic suiting, but pretty free of obvious texture.

There are two blazer fabrics in the Harrisons Spring Ram collection. I have a fitting in one of them coming soon. That's about 13oz, but still a very open weave. If you're leaning toward heavier weight, consider that.

Otherwise, the mock lenos are perhaps your most obvious choice.

Thanks Concordia. Point taken: I'll eliminate the finmeresco and focus on the mock leno or leno weave. I'll look at the Spring Ram as well. Please do let me know, if you remember, how it feels in the fitting.