Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aaronatKW]

^ thank you! I’m looking for a large-scale herringbone or something similar for my next overcoat project, but it’s hard to come by. I haven’t gotten around to calling them, but I will do so soon.

I read Simon’s description of the coat and was intrigued by the cashmere-lined pockets.

Marling & Evans has the Naturals collection, with undyed wool at 360g for jacketing and 720g for coating. Collection not online currently but you can see some in their facebook posts and their IG

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We have the book, but in the shop, and I write from home.

I have a coat made by our company (Kent Wang) in a M&E large format brown and gray check that everyone remarks upon.

 

[The Chai]

My silk Blend of some sort has arrived. No idea on the composition but it feels very soft. I’m thinking it may the the silk cashmere stuff. I’m thinking two piece db or a db shawl and an odd waistcoat

 

[kolecho]

I’m looking around for a Harris tweed in oatmeal shade. Any idea where to find one?

 

[aaronatKW]

HFW has some light brown shades in their herringbones. Their American face is Gladson, but the English site has more specs.

If you go beyond Harris Tweed, there's heavyweight tweeds in Alsport. For lighter (~370g) tweeds, I look to Abraham Moon for the widest range of shades in herringbone, twill, or plain weaves.

 

[bdavro23]

My silk Blend of some sort has arrived. No idea on the composition but it feels very soft. I’m thinking it may the the silk cashmere stuff. I’m thinking two piece db or a db shawl and an odd waistcoat

This looks to be from Last Spring's Giacche collection, if I'm not mistaken. Very nice cloth, I made a DJ in this for a client that turned out well.

 

[The Chai]

This looks to be from Last Spring's Giacche collection, if I'm not mistaken. Very nice cloth, I made a DJ in this for a client that turned out well.

Is it indeed cashmere silk? The receipt I have for it has the delivery at 2006-2008 so I don’t think it’s last spring. Would y make trousers out of it or is it too flimsy?

 

[bdavro23]

Definitely a different cloth then. I would not have made trousers out of the cloth I am referencing as it would have been too delicate to get much wear out of. I cant comment on the cloth you've posted unfortunately, but I'm sure your tailor will have an opinion.

 

[The Chai]

Definitely a different cloth then. I would not have made trousers out of the cloth I am referencing as it would have been too delicate to get much wear out of. I cant comment on the cloth you've posted unfortunately, but I'm sure your tailor will have an opinion.

That’s tehbrefecnce tag I have

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @The Chai,

IMO this must be a jacketing fabric, so please follow its destined use; its texture corroborates this position as well.

I urge you to go with your second idea: DB shawl DJ + odd waistcoat, I find it quite interesting! Furthermore, since you already have a pretty nice collection of DJs, the odd waistcoat will satisfy its versatility role!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[The Chai]

Dear @The Chai,

IMO this must be a jacketing fabric, so please follow its destined use; its texture corroborates this position as well.

I urge you to go with your second idea: DB shawl DJ + odd waistcoat, I find it quite interesting! Furthermore, since you already have a pretty nice collection of DJs, the odd waistcoat will satisfy its versatility role!

Cheers,

Dimitris

I already have a db shawl so
Either sb shawl or db 6x2 or 4x1. For waiscoat I’m either thinking 5 buttons with lapels or double breasted with lapels

 

[bdavro23]

I already have a db shawl so
Either sb shawl or db 6x2 or 4x1. For waiscoat I’m either thinking 5 buttons with lapels or double breasted with lapels

I did my wedding dinner jacket in Ivory, with big self faced peak lapels, one button with besom pockets. Would do it the same tomorrow.

 

[The Chai]

I did my wedding dinner jacket in Ivory, with big self faced peak lapels, one button with besom pockets. Would do it the same tomorrow.

The ultimate configuration for me. I always try and play with soemthing else and end up going back to that

 

[The Chai]

I’m playing around with the sbpl with spalla camicia shoulders atm and mop buttons

 

[CorozoButton]

Does anyone have any recommendations for mills/merchants that do Cotton (usually with Silk/Wool/Linen, or any combination of them). I find a fair amount of these in RTW (Cucinelli often do Cotton/Silk/Wool and Cotton/Silk/Linen jackets), but I can't seem to find bunches with them in very easily?

 

[mactire]

Do you know if there are any Magee bunches with herringbone in the 16oz range?

They've an 18/19oz range on their site: https://www.magee1866.com/en/Grey-and-Black-Herringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11369.aspx

And they've also a 15/16oz lambswool jacketing range but it's not online, you'd probably have to go through a tailor/distibutor.