Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bespoke DJP]

Henry (@Guyinbrown) you are welcome!

The images that I am attaching were posted here some time ago, but I saved them in my image data base for myself and to assist any of our fellows here.

The first is depicting the fabric code, composition and weight of the original fabric (the Loro Piana) and the second a Sport Coat made of this fabric just to get an idea of the finished garment.

Last, if I were you, I would try to check side by side the fabric in the two brands' bunches and decide; there may be some subtle shade differences, otherwise it is the same fabric!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Guyinbrown]

Dimitris, excellent, will do so and will post updates on my bespoke commission using this fabric. Regards, Henry

 

[JGC]

Not the same but similar: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-air/products/ecru-base-navy-and-walnut-check

Thanks again @DavidLane - I think the cloth I had in mind may actually have been from the Fox air book (see below), although what I saw seemed to be a more light olive colour.

Hmm. Do you know the seasonality of the cloth? It looks a lot like some of the jacketings coming from LBC/Carlo Barbera which are mostly summer weight. Several pretty close options in these bunches:

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/92

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/75 ----> check out number 19

Thanks @reidd for these suggestions. Some nice stuff in those books. Think the fabric I am looking for is a summer/transitional weight.

 

[zalb916]

Does anyone here have experience with cloth from Mallalieus of Delph? Simon’s overcoat is made from a Donegal woven by them:

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2019/10/introducing-the-donegal-overcoat.html

I’m planning to ring them up, but thought I’d ask my e-buddies first.

I have experience in that I bought that coat. I like the fabric. It's pretty soft and not scratchy. No idea what that means for the rest of their stuff, though. I have a jacket made in the Thornproof Donegal from Porter & Harding. That fabric is much stiffer than the overcoat fabric, which is over 200 grams heavier than the jacket fabric.

Speaking of that jacket, Simon's idea to line the pockets with cashmere was great. I definitely recommend it for anyone having a coat made.

 

[dan'l]

^ thank you! I’m looking for a large-scale herringbone or something similar for my next overcoat project, but it’s hard to come by. I haven’t gotten around to calling them, but I will do so soon.

I read Simon’s description of the coat and was intrigued by the cashmere-lined pockets.

 

[DavidLane]

^ thank you! I’m looking for a large-scale herringbone or something similar for my next overcoat project, but it’s hard to come by. I haven’t gotten around to calling them, but I will do so soon.

I read Simon’s description of the coat and was intrigued by the cashmere-lined pockets.

I emailed them a couple of weeks ago and have not received any response. I would like to have something made that is very similar if possible. I am working on it currently with a couple of other mills. If something breaks I will post it here.

-DL

 

[classicalthunde]

^ thank you! I’m looking for a large-scale herringbone or something similar for my next overcoat project, but it’s hard to come by. I haven’t gotten around to calling them, but I will do so soon.

I read Simon’s description of the coat and was intrigued by the cashmere-lined pockets.

Magee has some heavy large scale herringbone donegals

 

[classicalthunde]

I emailed them a couple of weeks ago and have not received any response. I would like to have something made that is very similar if possible. I am working on it currently with a couple of other mills. If something breaks I will post it here.

-DL

overcoat or sport coat weight?

 

[DavidLane]

overcoat or sport coat weight?

Overcoat, but it would depend on the mill. If it ends up being Harris Tweed it will have a top end in terms of weight.

-DL

 

[DavidLane]

Magee has some heavy large scale herringbone donegals

Funnily enough, I emailed them as well with no response. I also filled out a contact form on their website.

-DL

 

[classicalthunde]

Funnily enough, I emailed them as well with no response. I also filled out a contact form on their website.

-DL

they were pretty quick about sending me some samples...the herringbone size was pretty good, i think up to 2.5 inches for some. They were soft and "spongier" as @dieworkwear was talking about earlier, but some interesting colors

 

[imatlas]

they were pretty quick about sending me some samples...the herringbone size was pretty good, i think up to 2.5 inches for some. They were soft and "spongier" as @dieworkwear was talking about earlier, but some interesting colors

if you have those handy do you mind posting pictures? This is something I’ve been looking for as well.

 

[Bromley]

I really like Magee's tweeds. Their Bluestack bunch is about 19 oz. but feels much lighter to me. It's spongey and loosely woven, and I think the herringbone scale is pretty ideal for a sport coat.

Magee's Errigal bunch has ~21 oz. herringbone tweeds with XXL scale. I really want a balmacaan in one of these.

They have a lighter weight bunch (~14 oz) with herringbones but the scale is much smaller.

 

[dieworkwear]

Not technically a tweed, but VBC made some really terrific overcoating for Drapers about two years ago. I don't know if there's any fabric left. But it was an alpaca-wool blend with a huge, chunky herringbone, beautiful mottling, and just a terrific texture. Really unique. I think the alpaca-blend added a lot.

 

[classicalthunde]

I really like Magee's tweeds. Their Bluestack bunch is about 19 oz. but feels much lighter to me. It's spongey and loosely woven, and I think the herringbone scale is pretty ideal for a sport coat.
View attachment 1340632
View attachment 1340634

Magee's Errigal bunch has ~21 oz. herringbone tweeds with XXL scale. I really want a balmacaan in one of these.
View attachment 1340635

They have a lighter weight bunch (~14 oz) with herringbones but the scale is much smaller.

Do you know if there are any Magee bunches with herringbone in the 16oz range?