Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[brax]

I have compared the swatches I have from the regular Fox flannel and the old Minnis flannel (recent kolecho run) both are around 400g and they look and feel almost identical to me. The hand is the same. Current Minnis flannel is 475g (woollen) and 370g (worsted) is another kind of animal. Can someone confirm that the old Minnis flannel book was done by Fox?

I doubt this is true as one of my two tailors has disliked the Fox flannels for a long time but recommended the Minnis. Needless to say, I went with the Minnis and am very happy with the pents that he made.

 

[Alan Bee]

Okay, forum question, looking ahead for the fall (bc of traveling tailors). I've always liked the idea of a navy db chalk stripe flannel. What are your thoughts on flannel books?

Theres a part of me that wants to go Fox Heritage Flannel (the 18 oz book), just to experience all 18 oz of flannel. But, I feel that might be better suited for a medium gray db. What other books do y'all like, I already made sure to ask the tailor to bring the Fox normal flannel book (13/14 oz).

Theres also a part of me that feels like a navy chalk stripe isn't that useful. Thoughts?

@jonathanS

Jay, I’m a bit lost. What part of navy chalk isn’t that useful? Aren’t navy and mid gray chalk flannels in the same classic realm as gray flannel suiting?

In fact wearing one today. Harrison’s Archive Flannel 15/16oz (475 gram) woolen flannel

Alan Bee

Close up shot of fabric ..

 

[Concordia]

Stripes are helpful for DB with bigger guys. Help slice up the front surface a little.

 

[Patrick R]

@jonathanS

Jay, I’m a bit lost. What part of navy chalk isn’t that useful? Aren’t navy and mid gray chalk flannels in the same classic realm as gray flannel suiting?

In fact wearing one today. Harrison’s Archive Flannel 15/16oz (475 gram) woolen flannel

Alan Bee
View attachment 1326627

I think that’s a really nice looking color and cut on you.

 

[paborden]

So Drake's has a silk tussah sport coat this season. Think this in a jacket - https://www.drakes.com/brown-handrolled-silk-tussah-tie

I've been looking for something like this for a while but have never been able to source the cloth. Does anyone know a source for silk tussah or is that pretty much impossible?

 

[norMD]

Looking for a cotton fabric for a suit. Does anyone know what fabric this is?

 

[dieworkwear]

Looking for a cotton fabric for a suit. Does anyone know what fabric this is?

I imagine you can reach out to him to ask.

Brisbane Moss has some nice 100% cottons. I recently commissioned a cotton-stretch suit using a Zegna fabric. I think cotton-wool or cotton-elastane fabrics can be nice in that they have a bit more give. I wish I went with a blend for my corduroy suit for that reason, but I also know some people are purists about natural fabrics.

 

[norMD]

I imagine you can reach out to him to ask.

Brisbane Moss has some nice 100% cottons. I recently commissioned a cotton-stretch suit using a Zegna fabric. I think cotton-wool or cotton-elastane fabrics can be nice in that they have a bit more give. I wish I went with a blend for my corduroy suit for that reason, but I also know some people are purists about natural fabrics.

Initially I was thinking 100 % cotton, but after seeing alot of 97/3 or 98/2 compositions i dont think it matter too much. I was also thinking olive, but are considering taupe after reading your post. The issue with taupe, as I buy online, is that it is difficult to judge the tone. Some are more Brown, some gray and some slightly pink.

The image above looked interesting as it mooved between olive and kahki. I will try to ask him.

 

[bdavro23]

I imagine you can reach out to him to ask.

Brisbane Moss has some nice 100% cottons. I recently commissioned a cotton-stretch suit using a Zegna fabric. I think cotton-wool or cotton-elastane fabrics can be nice in that they have a bit more give. I wish I went with a blend for my corduroy suit for that reason, but I also know some people are purists about natural fabrics.

I find things with stretch/ elastane wear much warmer, so I stay away...

 

[reidd]

@jonathanS

Jay, I’m a bit lost. What part of navy chalk isn’t that useful? Aren’t navy and mid gray chalk flannels in the same classic realm as gray flannel suiting?

In fact wearing one today. Harrison’s Archive Flannel 15/16oz (475 gram) woolen flannel

Alan Bee
View attachment 1326627

Close up shot of fabric ..

View attachment 1326711

This looks fantastic Alan. It's interesting when it comes to flannel, obviously grays are king.. mid grey, light grey, charcoal are all fantastic. I typically don't like navy flannel as it usually seems to lack the charm and richness of gray, however in a pinstripe like this, double breasted too boot, it totally rocks. IMHO this is the only way to do a navy flannel.

 

[bdavro23]

Initially I was thinking 100 % cotton, but after seeing alot of 97/3 or 98/2 compositions i dont think it matter too much. I was also thinking olive, but are considering taupe after reading your post. The issue with taupe, as I buy online, is that it is difficult to judge the tone. Some are more Brown, some gray and some slightly pink.

The image above looked interesting as it mooved between olive and kahki. I will try to ask him.

I got a length of Olive cotton from Dugdale to make a casual suit up and it came in a bit brighter than I expected. It will still be nice, just different than what I had in mind.

 

[sacafotos]

So Drake's has a silk tussah sport coat this season. Think this in a jacket - https://www.drakes.com/brown-handrolled-silk-tussah-tie

I've been looking for something like this for a while but have never been able to source the cloth. Does anyone know a source for silk tussah or is that pretty much impossible?

Wow, pretty alternative to the typical cotton or linen S/S piece.

 

[jonathanS]

@jonathanS

Jay, I’m a bit lost. What part of navy chalk isn’t that useful? Aren’t navy and mid gray chalk flannels in the same classic realm as gray flannel suiting?

In fact wearing one today. Harrison’s Archive Flannel 15/16oz (475 gram) woolen flannel

Alan Bee
View attachment 1326627

Close up shot of fabric ..

View attachment 1326711

How do you like the archive flannel? If I recall correctly, you're in Dubai, warm does it wear?

I originally was thinking the heritage flannel but the tailor told me he didn't have that book, but has the 14 oz flannel. I'd imagine he could order the 18 oz flannel even if I don't have an opportunity to touch & feel the fabric. But I asked him if it was possible to get the heritage flannel book.

 

[norMD]

I got a length of Olive cotton from Dugdale to make a casual suit up and it came in a bit brighter than I expected. It will still be nice, just different than what I had in mind.

I have looked at the Brisbane cotton canvas named kahki, which actually is olive. I guess it will come down to what my usual rtw brands drops this spring, and if nothing looks right i will see whats available through MTO.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I doubt this is true as one of my two tailors has disliked the Fox flannels for a long time but recommended the Minnis. Needless to say, I went with the Minnis and am very happy with the pents that he made.

Strange. I swear I cannot feel the difference between the Fox flannel and the old Minnis.

How much is the weight of your Minnis pents?