Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Alan Bee]

Dear @Alan Bee,

I understand, however you may always expand your relationships on this winding Bespoke journey!

Therefore, should you want to branch out to Italian cloth, I would suggest you to contemplate the following:

a) Camelhair: Loro Piana, Piacenza.
b) Cashmere: Ermenegildo Zegna, Piacenza.
and because I believe that you can,
c) Cashmere-Vicuña: Piacenza.

It goes without saying that Italian weights are different from the British ones, but the aesthetic is different as well.

You may try my own merchants in Athens, Greece, the e-mail is: cashco(at)otenet.gr, you will not regret it; as I have mentioned in the past, the owner is very knowledgeable, helpful and honest, second-generation cloth merchant with a brick-and-mortar presence in downtown Athens, and representative for Greece of the above brands as well as Ariston Napoli, along with accessories personally selected from E. Marinella and F. Maglia.

Best,

Dimitris

Dear Dimitris,

Thank you for the mini lesson in Italian cloth. I started out with Italian cloth at the urging of my Neapolitan tailor when I did not know much about cloth. I suppose it was just easier for him to source.

If I’m honest, my experience has been mixed. I found more consistency in my second round of bespoke projects using strictly English cloth from said English merchants hence my earlier comment.

I have a few jackets from Loro Piana, Ariston, Piacenza etc which began to pill and lose shape in no time. Granted I’m sure there’s got to be some Fuggazzi coming out of English mills as well. Maybe I was just unlucky ...

Happy to have a look at your recommended cloth vendor .....

Alan Bee

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Alan Bee,

My pleasure!

Still, not even remotely a lesson, just a quick review on some pertinent fabrics that I came across; always my recommendations are based on what I would do/select for myself. Besides, what on earth can one learn to a gentleman who has strolled almost all the sartorial routes...?

In lieu of a disclaimer, I'd like to note that I recently bought a black Ermenegildo Zegna overcoat's length in 100% cashmere, 480grams of weight; a project hopefully for next year.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Alan Bee]

Anyone have any experience with Dugdale Royal Pageant or Spectrum?

@buddyfuzz @L.deJong @bdavro23

Here’s Dugdale’s Royal Pageant in light tan. @L.deJong as you can see, it drapes exceptionally well for a 10 ouncer. But like I said, I had it fully lined for drape insurance.

Alan Bee

 

[Concordia]

Damn. Very elegantly cut.

 

[reidd]

@alanbee How's the wrinkle resistance on that stuff?

 

[lazym]

I made a trip to my tailor and he showed me some bunches he just got. These fabrics are beautiful. Even though I have a blue checked jacket already, I'm seriously considering having another made.

 

[Alan Bee]

@alanbee How's the wrinkle resistance on that stuff?

@reidd

Wrinkles seem to fall out nicely. Gab is a twill but drapes far better and wrinkles less than regular wool in same weight. The perfect dress trousering for warmer weather if you don’t mind a slight sheen.

Alan Bee

 

[lordsuperb]

They might have changed their mind, but a few years ago they said they would let the book run down and not replace it.

Have you had anything made in the 16 oz range before, and what is so special about it? Edwin has my LL herringbone cloth but I haven't been in the mood to wear a suit this past year.

 

[lordsuperb]

@lordsuperb

Noted Superb. Any photos of you wearing it with a complete rig?

Alan Bee

We had a discussion about this in another thread, but I think the more important parts of a polo coat are a dropped button stance, straight lapels, Martingale belt, turnback cuffs, and mailbox pockets. The dropped button stance is the thing that often gets missed, but I think it really changes the look.

Well I showed Edwin a picture of Mafoo and told him to put his own twist on things and I ended up with a simple double breasted.

 

[smittycl]

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I made a trip to my tailor and he showed me some bunches he just got. These fabrics are beautiful. Even though I have a blue checked jacket already, I'm seriously considering having another made.

The blue-brown fabric is amazing.

 

[Concordia]

Have you had anything made in the 16 oz range before, and what is so special about it? Edwin has my LL herringbone cloth but I haven't been in the mood to wear a suit this past year.

I have had a couple of things. A birdseye that is not my very favorite, and a plain charcoal that I think is still on the website. Very solid, well-finished, drapes beautifully, wears not too hot although it stands up very well to winter winds. Should last a good long while and not need a ton of pressing to stay in shape. The usual purity of Lesser colors.

 

[lordsuperb]

I have had a couple of things. A birdseye that is not my very favorite, and a plain charcoal that I think is still on the website. Very solid, well-finished, drapes beautifully, wears not too hot although it stands up very well to winter winds. Should last a good long while and not need a ton of pressing to stay in shape. The usual purity of Lesser colors.

They finally responded to my email and mentioned they are considering a small update to the book.

 

[smittycl]

Well I showed Edwin a picture of Mafoo and told him to put his own twist on things and I ended up with a simple double breasted.

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The collar on your coat is much more realistic. I think you're quite a bit taller than Foo and his collar would have been a bit Blade Runner for you, maybe?

 

[Concordia]

They finally responded to my email and mentioned they are considering a small update to the book.

Let's hope they don't ******* up. The Lesser 11/12oz book is no longer what it was by most accounts, and you don't have to be Frank Shattuck to worry about the rest of their line.

 

[classicalthunde]

Speaking of cloth weights, and at the risk of sounding like Seinfeld, what is the deal with how mills/merchants label the weight of their cloth? Some give ranges like 280/310g...does it mean that the cloth could be anywhere in that range? I was looking the Holland and Sherry Cape Horn book today and they had 340g labeled as 11oz even though 340g = 11.99oz