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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Good news, friends.

    I double-checked the button placement against the other pieces and it seems like he's placed the button a touch lower than the other 1 button and it's more in line with where the second button would be on a 2-button.

    This means I can safely add a second button above and still maintain a decent button stance.

    Whew.

    Re: the sleeve length, it's actually fine - shirt was caught in the sleeve, hence no visible cuff.

    Gorge, lapel width and pocket size can all be addressed in future commissions.
     


  2. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Good to hear that, Trini.
     


  3. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Last time I looked, Lesser, now under LBD had a fantastic grey herringbone in their Barbera/Lesser sportsjacketings. (The book seem sto be in run-off, but this was still available a few months ago. I forget the weight, perhaps 11 0r 12 Oz... not sure. If you've got the bank for that, there is nothing like it... I have the same blue thornproof as Trini and the Lesser... the Lesser is - I am afraid - on another level. The handle is superior... heck, its a different cloth. Not a Donegal... feels super soft. True. J

    Thanks J, will look into it. 11-12oz seems perfect for where I am,for when it gets cold.
     


  4. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    I thought is was only fair to put up a picture of a recent bespoke commission since I commented on TRINI's jacket. Posted in this thread because people which comments I value are posting here.

    The fabric is not very exiting. Since it was my first suit with this tailor I went for a middle of the road workhorse fabric. A 12/13 oz VBC 4 ply.

    At this moment more exiting fabrics are in the works, a 12/13 oz Moxon mid grey sharkskin, a 12/13 oz Smith's RAF blue and a heavy navy freso from old Woodhouse stock. I will have a first fitting for those suits end of this month and would appriciate input what to tweak (if any). I will work with him on the pants, because I'm not fully satisfied with the fit of those.

    Tailor is a regional Italian tailor who was convinced by T4phage and some others at the Dutch board to travel to the Netherlands regularly (which is about every 2 to 3 months). I appreciate my photography skills are sub zero and unfortunately I have no devoted following to take pictures of me (my wife even thinks its quite weird that I hang around here anyway).

    Please let me have your thoughts

    the fabric (and cuff)
    [​IMG]

    front
    [​IMG]

    side
    [​IMG]

    shoulder treatment
    [​IMG]
     


  5. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    +1 - exactly what I was thinking.

    In too late; not much more to add.

    Good news, friends.

    I double-checked the button placement against the other pieces and it seems like he's placed the button a touch lower than the other 1 button and it's more in line with where the second button would be on a 2-button.

    This means I can safely add a second button above and still maintain a decent button stance.


    I would be cautious here; have seen some awkward short distances between 1st and 2nd button. I agree with some others that the button could be a touch higher, but if you don't have sufficient spacing for a second button, I would leave as is.
     


  6. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Please let me have your thoughts

    Looks pretty good from what I can see, L. I like the shoulder treatment and clean sleeves.

    In too late; not much more to add.



    I would be cautious here; have seen some awkward short distances between 1st and 2nd button. I agree with some others that the button could be a touch higher, but if you don't have sufficient spacing for a second button, I would leave as is.


    Never too late.

    Thanks for the concern. I can safely add another button 3.5-4" above the current one without it getting into the contemporary high button stance territory (which is what I want to avoid).

    Regardless, I'm going to talk to the tailor today and see what he thinks. I'll post pics a bit later of the gray suit which is also one-button but at a better height. The tweed blazer was supposed to mimic the stance so I'm not sure what went wrong.
     


  7. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Here's the gray: [​IMG] Comparison to the blazer: [​IMG] Top line is where the new button should end up on the blazer (left) Again, thanks for all the comments and feedback so far.
     


  8. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Please let me have your thoughts

    That looks pretty nice, C&A. At least judging from your fuzzy photos. Looks like they do the full front dart down to the hem like the Neapolitans. And no padding at all in the shoulder, yes?

    Top line is where the new button should end up.
    Again, thanks for all the comments and feedback so far.


    Trini, are you making these into 2-button coats creating a new button point? Wouldn't the collar/lapel roll already be set from the way the tailor cut the canvas?

    I agree we everyone else's comments about the lapels and shoulders. Welcome to the never ending process, I mean the fun and joys, of bespoke!
     


  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Trini, are you making these into 2-button coats creating a new button point? Wouldn't the collar/lapel roll already be set from the way the tailor cut the canvas?

    Hey K - just the one on the left. I'm happy with the one on the right.

    Re: the ability to do so, that'll be at the discretion of the tailor.
     


  10. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    Here's the gray:

    [​IMG]


    TRINI I really like the fabric of the gray suit. I've been looking through the thread but I haven't been able to find what the fabric is. Would you mind sharing? Thanks.

    -LR
     


  11. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    - Shoulders have been brought in a touch since the last commission
    - Length is 1/2" shorter.
    - I'm not completely comfortable with the lower 1-button stance. It's a true 1-button stance as opposed to just being where the 2nd button would be on a 3-r-2. I'd probably take it up an inch or so on the next commission.


    I can certainly understand the desire to raise the button stance, but, fwiw, those lapels are unique and very interesting. I sorta like them.
     


  12. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Here's the gray:

    [​IMG]

    Comparison to the blazer:

    [​IMG]

    Top line is where the new button should end up on the blazer (left)

    Again, thanks for all the comments and feedback so far.


    Trini, how many inches are those lapels? Are you considering taking them in next time?
     


  13. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    TRINI I really like the fabric of the gray suit. I've been looking through the thread but I haven't been able to find what the fabric is. Would you mind sharing? Thanks.

    -LR


    I got the fabric off of Ed, actually. The selvedge didn't reveal the maker unfortunately other than it was milled in Huddersfield.

    I can certainly understand the desire to raise the button stance, but, fwiw, those lapels are unique and very interesting. I sorta like them.

    Cheers - I can live with them but I'd prefer the higher stance.

    Trini, how many inches are those lapels?

    4".
     


  14. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think if you brought in the lapel width in a bit you wouldn't look so top heavy. I think that's the biggest issue I have with it right now.
     


  15. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Top line is where the new button should end up on the blazer (left)


    Hmm, I see where you're going with this and think it may work, but like you said, best to discuss with your tailor and take the cue from him.


    ...those lapels are unique and very interesting. I sorta like them.

    +1
     


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