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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I've seen "Made in Huddesfield" and "Dormeul" and other funny shit on selvedges at a local fabric shop as well.


    Nothing wrong with a bit of Dormeul...[​IMG]
     
  2. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Got some Lesser 11/12, more Moonbeam, and Harissons worsted flannel. A lot of the basics covered here, will have some difficulty prioritizing. Anyone have experience with Harrisons worsted flannel, or suggestions for alternatives? I particularly like the brown PoW and the greyish brown.

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  3. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Have you checked out the Lesser flannel? I think they are mostly worsted flannels. BTW how do you like the Lesser 11/12? Shattuck doesn't seem to like that particular book although he generally likes Lesser. http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...tart=15#p52297
     
  4. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How many suits are you thinking about getting? If two, mine would be 39176 and 39169.
     
  5. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    I've read that LL thread myself. I have the 9/10 being made up right now, but as I thought the 13 would be a bit much for me (I like to layer as I tend to overhead), I've decided to experiment with the 11/12. Others more experienced may chime in here, as I'm still learning the ropes. But I've got the 9/10 and 11/12 swatches in front of me and cannot discern any difference in quality.
     
  6. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Go 11/12

    To clarify - do you mean as opposed to the 9/10 or the 13 (or both)? Thanks.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    IMO, both 9.5/10 and 13 are superior to 11/12. The latter is just too "soft" and lacks body. The 9.5/10 performs significantly better.
     
  9. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How many suits are you thinking about getting? If two, mine would be 39176 and 39169.
    Those are my favorites, too. And the moonbeam brown glen plaid. 13 is too much for me. I have the 13 oz Harrison woolen and it's too hot for me (in SF) and the jacket just feels heavy. However, Mina's jacket will probably feel light given her construction.
     
  10. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Is that Moonbeam 36525, grey and chalk windowpane, or is there another color in there? And are you thinking of that for a suit or a jacket?
     
  11. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    How many suits are you thinking about getting? If two, mine would be 39176 and 39169.

    Two suits in worsted flannel, 39169 and 39174 (brown in town) are the current leading contenders.

    Those are my favorites, too. And the moonbeam brown glen plaid.

    That's my favorite of the moonbeam swatches. Did you end up committing to the similar LP cashmere?

    IMO, both 9.5/10 and 13 are superior to 11/12. The latter is just too "soft" and lacks body. The 9.5/10 performs significantly better.

    Thanks. I suppose this was a bit counterintuitive for me, as someone who's reading up on cloth fundamentals regarding weight and performance. Any recommendations for worsteds that can take me from late Parisian fall through early spring? (shouldn't be too different from NY)
     
  12. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I've read that LL thread myself. I have the 9/10 being made up right now, but as I thought the 13 would be a bit much for me (I like to layer as I tend to overhead), I've decided to experiment with the 11/12. Others more experienced may chime in here, as I'm still learning the ropes. But I've got the 9/10 and 11/12 swatches in front of me and cannot discern any difference in quality.
    I have a DB in the 13 that performs amazingly well. I'm amazed how well it resists wrinkles. But you are correct that it wears warm and can be difficult to wear if your office is well heated.
     
  14. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Is that Moonbeam 36525, grey and chalk windowpane, or is there another color in there? And are you thinking of that for a suit or a jacket?

    There is a rust windowpane as well which shadows the chalk. If I end up doing anything with this one it would be for a DB odd coat.
     
  15. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Two suits in worsted flannel, 39169 and 39174 (brown in town) are the current leading contenders.



    That's my favorite of the moonbeam swatches. Did you end up committing to the similar LP cashmere?



    Thanks. I suppose this was a bit counterintuitive for me, as someone who's reading up on cloth fundamentals regarding weight and performance. Any recommendations for worsteds that can take me from late Parisian fall through early spring? (shouldn't be too different from NY)


    The third would be 39174. All three would be great additions. You should do at least one in DB.
     
  16. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The third would be 39174. All three would be great additions. You should do at least one in DB.

    I'm pretty sure that the one I have (SB) is 39174. Sort of dark tan/medium grey. A nice weight, well-behaved. Excellent Friday suit. Maybe not a world-beater but the sort of thing that might die of old age in 15 years because it's easy to put on.
     
  17. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks. I suppose this was a bit counterintuitive for me, as someone who's reading up on cloth fundamentals regarding weight and performance. Any recommendations for worsteds that can take me from late Parisian fall through early spring? (shouldn't be too different from NY)

    If the 13oz is too much, you could go lighter. Harrison's Frontier is a pretty basic year-round fabric. The LL Brisa (and there are other non-LL models of that quality offered by Lovat Mill-- just call them and ask) drapes even better than the 10oz Frontier and breathes nicely in over-heated rooms. Neither is a winter weight but neither will make you look stupid in the cold weather.
     
  18. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    what office would allow you in it [​IMG]

    Why... the BACK office, obviously.
     
  19. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    The LL Brisa (and there are other non-LL models of that quality offered by Lovat Mill-- just call them and ask)

    Thanks for the tip. Just phoned them. Friendly people and happy to send me some swatches.
     
  20. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Gents - For my 520 Minnis fresco blazersuit, should I go with this: [​IMG] or that: [​IMG]
     

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