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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    Feb 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York
    Meursault - i usually pay about $300 for suit-length fresco, and presumably that would be at least partially offset by not having to purchase other cloth from the tailors. I tend to run hot as well (and I live in a very hot place) and have been quite impressed with how cool the fresco wears but also by hiw well it drapes and holds a crease (referring to the 11oz version fwiw). If you're not set on one of the VBCs, and if the maths work out, you might give it a try.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Hong Kong / Darien
    
    Looks amazing - I'm in for 2m!
     
  3. velomatt

    velomatt Well-Known Member

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    Jun 27, 2013
    At the risk of putting this in two threads (the other was the folded shirt porn thread, where I first saw this image), does anyone know what the blue/white check fabric in the upper right is?

    [​IMG]
     
  4. baromatic

    baromatic Well-Known Member

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    Is it still possible to attain this ?
     
  5. baromatic

    baromatic Well-Known Member

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    Been wanting to ask the SF opinion on a summer cloth from Ariston and also Scabal

    Ariston Wool/linen/silk:

    [​IMG]

    Scabal: St. Tropez wool/silk/linen:
    [​IMG]


    Both are within the same gram/oz weight.
    Which one can resist a crease, feels more luxurious, and is a finer cloth from experience?
     
  6. forex

    forex Senior member

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    6,595
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    Apr 15, 2008
    Gentlemen, some more fabrics for sale, please pm me with questions. First one is Carlo Barbers for Lesser gunclub, Harrison's moonbeam tan herringbone, dark brown minnis fresco, last two are W Bill tweeds

    [​IMG]
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  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member

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    Location:
    New York City
    Seattle summers are completely bearable in 10oz fresco. The last time I was there in the summer I packed both 8/9oz and 10oz fresco. I was completely comfortable and it was August. All of my fresco suits are lined in ermazine, fwiw.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member

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    Why on earth?!?!
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member

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    I know, I know. I just feel like partially lined the piping and things come undone easier and there is more frequent maintenance issues with the guts. Ermazine is like tissue paper thin, I can't imagine one could tell the difference other than for aesthetic reasons.
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member

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  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member

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    I cannot argue with that statement.
     
  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member

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    Location:
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    Lined fresco [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. yasu10s

    yasu10s Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 16, 2010
    PM sent regarding the Lesser gun-club
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  14. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Senior member

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    Nov 11, 2014
    Location:
    Washington, DC and Shanghai
    Has anyone tried Dormeuils new vintage sportex from their British Collection? I'm thinking of getting 460005 (the green) as a suit. Is that stupid?
     
  15. Dinjango

    Dinjango Active Member

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    Jan 7, 2014
    Haven't encountered the new sportex, but I have seen the original. The one I saw had a very nice mottled texture. You can also consider the green wbill linen posted a few posts ago.
     
  16. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    T.
    Has anybody ever used Tecnik by Dormeuil? I'm asking because they have the perfect black-grey Stresemann trousers pattern.
     
  17. emptym

    emptym Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 22, 2007
    I had this jacket made last year in large part because of yours. (You may recognize the scarf too.)
    [​IMG]

    Have had the shoulders softened since that pic by having the wadding removed and the sleeve head and shoulder end recut a bit. It's uncanvased and unpadded, lined in silk, with four regular front buttons plus a small one one at the top of the lapel so it can be buttoned all the way up. I'd bought a couple lengths of gray flannel from ATailorsDaughter intending to have them made into pants. One was long enough for a jacket, and I'd been wanting a boiled wool jacket, so I washed it in not quite boiling water, which made it really soft and a bit fuzzy. Great for a casuial jacket, but I've only worn it once, on a trip.

    I only wear it w/ jeans and no tie. Generally I agree w/ the common preference for dark tops though. The only exceptions I make are the white and black or cream and brown patterned tweed w/ dark gray, as Manton mentioned, and cream cotton or linen w/ dark gray fresco pants. My dad wore a camel jacket w/ mid to dark gray pants pretty often, but I've never been able to do it.


    I'd go w/ the linen blend. That's my favorite fabric for hot weather as long as, as someone mentioned, it has an open weave. I'm in Bali for a wedding and wore a linen suit but was wished it was linen/wool.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2015
  18. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member

    Messages:
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    I had a jacket made with roughly that style last year. A 3-button, with the buttons evenly spaced amongst themselves and the boutonniere, so that when I flip the collar the whole thing buttons like a jacket/shirt with Mandarin collar.

    The waist button is a tad higher than normal, but when I'm driving and want to keep it fastened it is a lot more comfortable, even though I can sit with my normal jackets buttoned.

    Not sure what to try next on that. Unfortunately, my neck is just large enough that the lapel notches have to be noticeably lower than the usual. Not a disaster, but not a no-brainer either with a cloth I would just as happily use for a conventional 3-button. Maybe the LL Donegal-- or the LL HB cashmere once I'm very confident of success.
     
  19. emptym

    emptym Senior member

    Messages:
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    ^Would widening the lapels allow for easy fastening w/o lowering the notch?

    Either of the two fabrics sound good to me. What material is the one you have made of? I'm very pleased w/ how the hot-washed flannel worked out. Softer and more "lofty" than true boiled wool, but still pretty wind resistant. Looks almost like a fine boucle. Here's a closeup I took of the buttonholes for the Luxire thread (the maker). It shows the fabric well:

    [​IMG]

    The jacket was also inspired by this Cifonelli jacket posted by Sleevehead, particularly the four buttonholes plus boutonneire:

    [​IMG]

    So mine's basically a 4 roll 2, like this one.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2015
  20. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 15, 2009
    Saw this on a random tumblr

    anyone done a completely unstructured fresco sc?

    french translation from google:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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