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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Which color pattern has more versatility?

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  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The second-- but anyone buying the first will have more than one jacket to choose from.
     
  3. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Fabric #2 although I have a SC made from #1 and it gets plenty of wear.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2015
  4. Merino Bros

    Merino Bros Senior member

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    cross post from HK tailors tread...

    W Bill Phoenix has been made. It is soft and light yet still have good drape. Comfortable to wear. Good choice for Spring/Autumn jacketings[​IMG]

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    2 people like this.
  5. xizenta

    xizenta Senior member

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    Last edited: May 11, 2015
  6. LEVOOSH

    LEVOOSH Senior member

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    Yes, locally in Canada. Sultan is a nice fellow and I recommend calling the shop if you have questions.

    Some fabrics have no selvedge so can be hit or miss. I've gotten some great deals and other stuff I was not so happy with in terms of how it tailored. YMMV
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. xizenta

    xizenta Senior member

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    Thank you! I wrote them an email yesterday asking if they will disclose the provenance of this cloth (probably won't, so I might have to gamble).
     
  8. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    To the ignorant folk out there, what it the tremendous advantage (or marginal, whichever is more apt) between a bolt of fabric having a selvedge and having none?
     
  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Selvedge tells you what mill it is coming from.
     
  10. LEVOOSH

    LEVOOSH Senior member

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    To expand on Greg's point, when dealing with a fabric merchant like the one X asked about the selvedge can give you more predictability and is a reliable symbol of quality. Without it you are relying more on other senses and a bit of dumb luck in what you are buying
     
  11. xizenta

    xizenta Senior member

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    Usually I can't identify the mill even with the selvedge on a bolt of cloth. So it doesn't really help me except (I guess) to prevent fraying of the cloth. :dozingoff:
    Do you guys ever look for anything in the selvedge to indicate quality other than the potential to identify exactly where the fabric came from? On some bolts I have noticed that even the yarn composition noted in the selvedge is unreliable.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Do you guys get all of your tweed jackets with swelled edges?
     
  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I do.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  14. xizenta

    xizenta Senior member

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    Ok just got off the phone with the Sultan himself.
    He told me that green/lilac check was from Lanificio Garlanda. Never heard of them.
    Seems really lightweight at 8oz for a cashmere blend. (85% w / 15% cs)

    I think I might take my chances, but anyone have any thoughts?

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  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Possibly how many years are on its shoulders.
     
  16. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I don't really care for the dandy-ness of that design, but beyond that, having a cashmere blend in that light of a weight seems odd to me.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  17. xizenta

    xizenta Senior member

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    Yeah, I mentioned that to him on the phone.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not always. Could be "Made in Huddersfield England" or one of those.
     
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Ercole made one up for me with hand made swelled edges, the look is quite subtle. I really have to look hard to notice it. I was told that if I wanted it to look as typical swelled edges he would make it by machine.
     
  20. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    +1
     

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