Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[blueandwhite]

Is there no chance of getting Grandi fabrics directly? Any recommendations for good linen? I know all about W Bill and have also heard of Solbiati and Spence Bryson. Wondering if there's any other names I might have missed out. Thanks!

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



You would think so. Then you have a day when you don't think you know anything and have lots to learn.
Actually, just spent a few days in Milan and saw so many beautiful suits. Very inspirational. Milanese tailoring is not represented much if at all here. Really great styling and craftsmanship.

Who were the tailors you liked?

 

[Despos]

I remember you telling me about this awesome Milanese jacket you saw some guy wearing that was super shapely, but it had absolutely no darts. I'd love to see some patterns of such a jacket.

He was from Rome. Still remember the silhouette of his jacket. No front dart but there was an under arm dart from the pocket up to the armhole, no side body

You would think so. Then you have a day when you don't think you know anything and have lots to learn.
Actually, just spent a few days in Milan and saw so many beautiful suits. Very inspirational. Milanese tailoring is not represented much if at all here. Really great styling and craftsmanship.

Who were the tailors you liked?

For personal reasons going thru the workrooms at A. Caraceni was sort of special. Very elegant and classy shop. The trousers they make may be the best, most impressive work I've ever seen. Everything about the workmanship was spectacular.

Met with Musella Dembech who posts here. They are very legit. The father was at A Caraceni years ago and their work is very clean. The cut and finish are excellent. They understand tailoring in a modern and good way.

Met Tindaro De Luca by chance in a restaurant during aperitivo. Didn't see his workrooms but the cut of his suit was fantastic. He had a hard time believing I was a tailor. Became sort of humorous.

Spent a day in Biella visiting the Vitale Barberis Canonico Mill and then spent the afternoon with the tailor in this J. Crew video.
At 83 years old he was a very innovative tailor and I picked up a few things I'll put into my work.

First trip to a mill and learn how raw wool is spun into yarns, dyed, woven and finished. It was all done in house. One of the oldest mills in that area and most modern.

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

J. Crew has some very good videos you can find on you tube, worth checking them out

Here's another covering the making of shirtings

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[poorsod]

Did you see this documentary of VBC by Gianluca?

http://vimeo.com/m/64921308

Find any good places for apertivo?

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

^ Thanks, Chris. Sounds like a great trip and it's good to hear more aboyut the Milanese.

I'm guessing they're probably next in line for a SF-breakthrough. Neapolitan tailoring is now getting old on SF

 

[archetypal_yuppie]

I remember when Oxxford was supposed to be cool.

 

[jedwards]

I have some VBC royal blue hop sack cloth for available for sale if anyone wants it (2.5m).

I bought it in a bespoke mania, but I have too much stuff in production at the moment.

Pm if interested, cheers.

 

[jebarne]

He was from Rome. Still remember the silhouette of his jacket. No front dart but there was an under arm dart from the pocket up to the armhole, no side body
For personal reasons going thru the workrooms at A. Caraceni was sort of special. Very elegant and classy shop. The trousers they make may be the best, most impressive work I've ever seen. Everything about the workmanship was spectacular.

Met with Musella Dembech who posts here. They are very legit. The father was at A Caraceni years ago and their work is very clean. The cut and finish are excellent. They understand tailoring in a modern and good way.

Met Tindaro De Luca by chance in a restaurant during aperitivo. Didn't see his workrooms but the cut of his suit was fantastic. He had a hard time believing I was a tailor. Became sort of humorous.

Spent a day in Biella visiting the Vitale Barberis Canonico Mill and then spent the afternoon with the tailor in this J. Crew video.
At 83 years old he was a very innovative tailor and I picked up a few things I'll put into my work.

First trip to a mill and learn how raw wool is spun into yarns, dyed, woven and finished. It was all done in house. One of the oldest mills in that area and most modern.

J. Crew has some very good videos you can find on you tube, worth checking them out

Here's another covering the making of shirtings

Thanks for this great post.

 

[Pliny]

 

[tchoy]

First fitting London Lounge Etna double sided cashmere jacket by BnTailor.

http://lindenway.tumblr.com/post/89405125498/subskin-sports-jacket-fitting-for-tchoy-cloth

 

[Concordia]

Good tailor, good cloth!

 

[Slickman]

Tchoy, how soft is that cloth?

 

[Claghorn]

Very soft, if I recall. I handled it when I stopped by B&Tailor. I think the fabric had just come in.

Oh, yeah, tchoy, they let me touch your stuff. You've been warned

 

[Concordia]

It is pretty soft.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Hi guys,

for those who wanted the Tonik fabric, sorry I don't have the patience to answer all 30 of you again with the link

Here's where you can get it

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TONIK-WOO...89886?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric&hash=item43cae6279e