1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. delhite

    delhite Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2015
    Guys:

    How is Linen ( or cotton) from Minnis Vs W Bill

    I can get a decent price on Minnis and will go for it If it is comparable to Bill


    Any experts advice on Minnis Cotton for Pants/suit for warm weather
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,649
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Thanks Brendon

    Minnis QZ is great. I've been recommending to all who like Minnis Classic but look for a softer hand. From what I've seen, it makes up really nicely. Really good value too.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  3. phphl

    phphl Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
    Any views regarding Lesser's stuff (excluding the LGBs which are apparently in another league)?
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Several people have mentioned how well the QZ 150's tailors but I haven't tried it yet.

    Agree about the Supertronic. When it was discontinued I bought up 140 yards in 4 colors, down to less than 50 yards. Amazing cloth for the body to weight ratio and the hand. Perfect summer trouser

    The superior cloth from that era was the Bahama cloth from Wain Shiell. Similar to Rangoon but much better IMO

    Didn't like Amadeus even when it was 2 X 2

    Crown Classic was very good but I believe that is also discontinued.

    Would add two to your list from Holland & Sherry. Mille Miglia , 10 ounce Super 80's and Victory Flannel 150's.

    Both were fantastic to tailor and to wear

    I miss the mohairs that were made in the 70's. Much different then from what you get today. Better colors and patterns. Mostly all solid patterns now.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Phphl
    No haven't used the Lesser. I know it's good though if I am to believe the many in London I have talked to who all support it. All seemed to be owned by very large companies now. It is hard enough to keep the mills I deal with happy with the orders I give them. Being a one and a half man/ woman tailoring unit does mean if you carry too many ranges you do service to none. Some shops/tailors just seem to collect the things. Probably easier here in Auckland 30 in summer 10 in winter so quite temperate so a lot of clients talk about year round cloths.

    Hi Despos
    Yes if I am brutally honest the Amadeus just made it on. Still have a couple of lengths with the Super 100's Made in England running down the side. Not there now.


    Lucky man with the Supertronic. Both the 300g and the 360 were great.
    I am not old enough to have gone through the 3 ply mohair the first time around. I did make a suit out of an old piece of super 70's and mohair given to me by an old tailor and loved it. Dirt Brown with a check. Probably 9-10oz.


    As a tailor I do think we are lucky to have such variety of cloth despite some of the challenges.
    I am cutting out an 18 oz 3 piece for a man this week. Have not had to work with that weight very often. Thank goodness our summer is over and I don't have to wear that blanket over my lap for the next few weeks.

    I had a young lady tailor form Italy ( NZ born) who visited me recently and was talking about few year old cloth being sought after in Italy as it had time to dry from the process of being made.
    Anyone heard about this?


    There may be something in it but sounds like a good way to sell old stock for more than $5- a metre.
    Wool being hydro-scopic can suck up to 30% of its weight in water so surely it is always changing.
    Still if this is the case I have plenty of old stock waiting for the right person to pay well over the odds

    Someone was looking on Style forum for Hemp cloth.
    Marzotto Group ( huge Co) have a range of Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino " Blue " Carnet. Some pure Canapa ( Hemp I hope) and Canapa e Lana in there. Looks nice. Dont know the price as I have not used the bunch yet . I found it at the last PV show in Paris

    have a good day all
    Brendon
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,649
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    We got a series of sport coats made with the Delfino hemp/wool mix from the "Blue" book. Turned out really nicely.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  7. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Depsos
    Yes Minnis QZ very forgiving. Must be some compromise somewhere as the price is good. Did not go up with HFW new price list and thought it may a little.
    The other cloth which has been my go to has been the YTC super 100's pick and picks all cloth 2 by 2 and designed by a guy named Steven Willis. He knows his stuff. Press off well. Not expensive and as they are a small company probably no US rep. Cloth I think is made by Taylor and Lodge who are a premium mill in Huddersfield. One of the better ones.
    Brendon
     
  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    Maybe they are talking about Carlo Barbera?

    http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/business/global/01italy.html?_r=0

     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  9. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Poorsod
    thanks for that I will have a read tonight at home. Looks interesting and a big and successful Mill. She was definitely referring to old stock ie Cloth sitting on the shelf. My question is that if the wool is changing weight with the weather as we all are. Hence the importance of resting the suits and shoes etc. Then why would the age (other than risking moths and silverfish and just dust) have much to do with it.I have no idea but I do not weave cloth for a living. I hope there is something to it. It would be great if my old cloth appreciated like a strad violin or old masters painting. It sounds like just a very clever piece of commerce.....jealous.
    I am going to buzz a few technical cloth friends in the next few days and see if they can add to this but also look forward to any further thought from the community and certainly appreciate the article link
    Go well
    Brendon
     
  10. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    GDL 203
    Nice presentation. Looks good. Lovely looking cloth and I love a good patch pocket to keep the tennis balls in before I step onto court for a serve. I have a first ed of Thorntons sectional cutting from the 1890's ish and there is a superb plate of men in the summer tennis outfits. Patch pockets for the ageing Mac Enroes' .

    When I visit Italy each year, the Italian men always have that lovely blue jacket and their blue shirts have that dash of purpleish blue that suits the olive skin. After seeing this not catered for by the various mills Uk who supply me I went looking for this and found the Blue bunch at PV.
    Being hemp I have a few decent irons so no excuses for not looking sharp in summer. Can't wait to buy a length for my most important customer who has several unfinished suit jacket projects on the go....me. Hopefully in time for the start of our next Summer in about 8 months time
    Brendon
     
  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,774
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    
    That's a very nice blue for the summer. One of the standard books, or did you do a special order?
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,774
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    
    Has anyone had a chance to compare this with some of the other luxury 11oz things-- Grand Cru, Golden Bale 11oz, etc?
     
  13. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Concordia
    I have never used Golden Bale and not familiar with Grand Cru but will look it up.
    QZ may well be made by Taylor and Lodge? they make for a lot of cloth sellers and they are capable at the luxury end.
    Can you buy Golden Bale cut length wholesale?. If dealing direct with T & L 30 m to 60 m minimum and only on some cloth I think. ie approx 10- 20 suits. Could be 2 pieces on other 120m or 4 suits.
    QZ cut length for sure fro HFW but cannot truly answer your question but hope that is of some use.
    Brendon
     
  14. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

    Messages:
    1,731
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    

    Hi Kolecho,
    The price for rerun is really good! Of course it is not as good as their closed out sale, but still a steal!
    The shipping is from UK, Italy or HK? If I can pick it up at HK without shipping, I will be in!
     
  15. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

    Messages:
    1,731
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    

    What is your opinion on QX?
     
  16. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

    Messages:
    3,166
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2004
    

    HK based guys can pick up in person. PM me what you'd like. Coffee is on you!
     
  17. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

    Messages:
    1,731
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    

    Good! When will in ready?
    Coffee after Easter, OK? :nodding:
     
  18. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Fishball I don't carry QX . So no experience making it. I know it is very lightweight, quite a lot of cloth competition in this area. Felt the samples last year, similar price I believe. Presumed,,,but should be a 2 by 2 which is good. Sorry I don't know more.
    Brendon
     
  19. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,649
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    
    Standard book ("Blue" Tallia di Delfino)
     
  20. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    @gdl203 Is the fabric available to be purchased directly through them or a reseller? Been looking for a nice Hemp fabric for a while.
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2015

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by