Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[archetypal_yuppie]



Your ability to disagree with people is admirable.

Thanks

 

[Slewfoot]



I suspect this is just great marketing for those susceptible to romantic notions about clothes. I mean, yes, it is not made in the same way anymore. But I'm suspicious of any intrinsic/objective superiority.

Have you felt great old vintage cloth in your hands against similar modern cloths to do a comparison? Or is the above comment just based on conjecture? If the latter that reminds me of people without kids who feel the need to pass judgment on others and their parenting.

 

[unbelragazzo]



2. What ever happened to the project to try to get a run of (IIRC sand / light tan) flannel for odd trousers?

I'm still very interested in doing this. I think the best way to go is to have @gdl203 help us going through Fox because I know he is already in contact with them.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



I'm still very interested in doing this. I think the best way to go is to have @gdl203 help us going through Fox because I know he is already in contact with them.

I would be v. interested as well (provided we choose a 15oz.+ weight for the flannel trousering).

 

[unbelragazzo]



I would be v. interested as well (provided we choose a 15oz.+ weight for the flannel trousering).

I agree. I would be looking for something in the 15-17oz range. Heavier than what they stock, but not quite so heavy as the LL stuff, although if they made it to LL specs in the color that I'm looking for I guess that would be fine. I'm assuming heavier weights mean it would be more expensive too.

Here's my original post on it for those interested (after I posted this a few people made suggestions of cloths to look at but none of them were exactly what I wanted):

Since all these other projects seem to be going well, I guess I'll tilt at a windmill too. As I mentioned before, I've been having a hard time finding a nice flannel for trousers in a kind of light sand or tan color as in the picture below from Vox's blog:

http://www.voxsartoria.com/image/55814655923

Ideally I'd like a little less yellow and a little more brown.

These come close to the color I'm looking for:

http://www.howardyount.com/collections/wool-pants/products/super-120s-fall-flannel-tan

This color also, although this is a twill, and a little darker than I'd want:

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/beige-wool-twill-trousers-2216.html

but I'd like to do something heavier, maybe 15oz or so. I prefer woolen flannel to worsted, so that would be my first choice. Seems like Fox would be the right choice for the job. I'm open to suggestions though. Just trying to gauge interest generally before investing a ton of time in it.

I think flannel in such a color would work well as a suit too, which I may consider myself. But the principle use would probably be as odd trousers. So, who's interested?

Edit: Since a few projects are going on at once, when expressing interest, either quote this post (and spoiler because of its length) or say, "in for a trouser length/whatever of unbel's flannel" - I will favorite posts that I think refer to my project to acknowledge that I saw them.

List of interested parties:

1) Me
2) @Grammaton Cleric
3) @archibaldleach
4) @dieworkwear
5) @Odd I/O
6) @bertie
7) @fassbinder
8) @zbromer
9) @DavidLane

 

[mktitsworth]



Have you felt great old vintage cloth in your hands against similar modern cloths to do a comparison? Or is the above comment just based on conjecture? If the former that reminds me of people without kids who feel the need to pass judgment on others and their parenting.

I agree. I would be looking for something in the 15-17oz range. Heavier than what they stock, but not quite so heavy as the LL stuff, although if they made it to LL specs in the color that I'm looking for I guess that would be fine. I'm assuming heavier weights mean it would be more expensive too.

Here's my original post on it for those interested (after I posted this a few people made suggestions of cloths to look at but none of them were exactly what I wanted):

More people wanting to do runs of ungodly heavy cloths...

 

[unbelragazzo]



More people wanting to do runs of ungodly heavy cloths...

Flannel is so much better as a heavier cloth IMHO. I have a suit in a lighter weight flannel and while it's tailored beautifully, it doesn't drape or hold its shape nearly as well as heavier flannel. 13 oz is about the absolute minimum I'd want to go to on flannel.

Especially for something that's intended to be for trousers. Will of ASW told me once that trousers should be heavier than jackets, and while I wouldn't take it as an unbreakable rule, it's a good thing to keep in mind. At least for me, I don't get as hot in heavy trousers as I do in a heavy jacket, and the extra weight helps the cloth keep a crease, fall in a straight line while standing, and not flap around too much while walking.

 

[aportnoy]



Flannel is so much better as a heavier cloth IMHO. I have a suit in a lighter weight flannel and while it's tailored beautifully, it doesn't drape or hold its shape nearly as well as heavier flannel. 13 oz is about the absolute minimum I'd want to go to on flannel.

Totally agree here. My favorite is the Fox 17oz which is ideal for NYC late fall and winter. Have one lighter weight Golden Bale which in retrospect I would pass on now even thought he cloth is amazing, it just doesn't hold its shape.

 

[dieworkwear]

I'd be in for a couple of meters on the sand/ tan flannel. Would be good to keep a stash on hand just for future orders, frankly, as getting just the right shade has been so difficult.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I'd be in for a couple of meters on the sand/ tan flannel. Would be good to keep a stash on hand just for future orders, frankly, as getting just the right shade has been so difficult.

I agree. FWIW, I will probably make a suit out of it, with at least two pairs of trousers, although I recognize this color as a suit would not be for everyone.

 

[mktitsworth]



Flannel is so much better as a heavier cloth IMHO. I have a suit in a lighter weight flannel and while it's tailored beautifully, it doesn't drape or hold its shape nearly as well as heavier flannel. 13 oz is about the absolute minimum I'd want to go to on flannel.

I'm not disagreeing, just continuing to lament what a difference ~8 degrees of latitude makes. 15+ ounces would make for great pants that come out of my closet when I travel north during F/W and a few more times if I'm lucky. If you did it at 13, I would throw down, but that's really not what it sounds like you are interested in and I think you should pursue that because it sounds cool.

 

[Slewfoot]

Flannel is definitely best around 15oz+. The LL flannel scares me a bit due to the fact that there is no porosity to it (most LL cloths you an actually see through the threads when held against a light, but not the flannel). I have some lightweight stuff and it's a bit flimsy. You can tell the heavier stuff will last a lifetime if taking care of it.

 

[gdl203]

We carry Fox and will be happy to work with them for a special run. I'll get the specifics from @unbelragazzo and take it from there.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



Flannel is definitely best around 15oz+.

+1.

Like others, I've bought some beautiful 10-12oz. Italian flannels in the past, but they certainly don't hold their shape like the heavier stuff. For trousers, a lightweight flannel would be awful.

 

[dieworkwear]



I'm not disagreeing, just continuing to lament what a difference ~8 degrees of latitude makes. 15+ ounces would make for great pants that come out of my closet when I travel north during F/W and a few more times if I'm lucky. If you did it at 13, I would throw down, but that's really not what it sounds like you are interested in and I think you should pursue that because it sounds cool.

Maybe you can compensate by going commando? The fabric on your underwear has to be at least 2oz, I imagine.