Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Don't have any of those, sorry.
     


  2. DocBrendon

    DocBrendon New Member

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    Hi

    I'm looking for a fabric for a summer sports coat in a light colour. I've had success with Minnis Fresco in the past, but this time I was thinking of predominantly linen, but with a bit of either wool or silk woven in to hopefully limit creasing slightly. Alternatively, I've noticed with OTR trousers that linen in a twill weave seems a bit more crease resistant than the usual plain weave linen. I know that creasing is part of the charm of linen, but I am nonetheless keen to experiment with a blend.

    I tend to buy from Huddersfield Fine Worsted (Minnis, Hardy) and then sent the fabric to my tailor, but they don't seem to have any linen-based blends, or pure linen in a twill weave. I couldn't see anything from Harrison either. Can anyone suggest a source or book with such a fabric, ideally one that sells to the general public?

    Many thanks

    Brendon
     


  3. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Harrisons has a new book-- Mirage. Wool/silk/linen, with a lot of different patterns. Not on their website yet, but if you Google around you might see some things on Facebook or elsewhere.
     


  4. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Has anyone used Fox's navy serge cloth and been happy with the results? It has a nice plump hand on the swatch, but I thought I would ask before going ahead... It seems serge does not get talked about much here, with most posters preferring hopsack and lighter navies when it comes to blazers.
     


  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I was looking at that one last night. Isn't it midnight blue rather than a navy?

    http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/301/jacketing/fox-midnight-serge-jacketing
     


  6. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    You are absolutely right. Sorry, in my heart of hearts, midnight blue is the only blue.
     


  7. borbor

    borbor Senior member

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    On dream bespoke's facebook page, there are jacket pics on there with that cloth
     


  8. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    I have the whole swatch book. Let me know if you want pictures of of any designs in particular.

    Have a look at Cacciopolli; their wool/silk/linen combo's are made by Loro Piana. Some lovely designs too. Again, let me know if you want to see it. They also have Solaro Cotton. Im getting some Airo cotton for pants:

    [​IMG]


    The new Harrisons Mystique book has come out. What do you guys think of this:

    [​IMG]


    Barbera also has a nice jacketing book.
     


  9. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    that Mystique looks a lot like a suit pattern.
     


  10. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A sideline on CMT for shirts---for whatever reason, Ascot Chang's shirts can get very expensive at the high end. For example, a DJ Anderson cotton/linen (really nice, BTW, and exclusive to them) runs close to $400. Loro Piana goes even higher without too much effort. I don't know if that is a distributor thing, a HK tax thing, or just their way of having their best customers pay the bills.

    Anyway I just sent a few things to them from Acorn and Bonfanti-- neither of which AC carries-- ordered off their respective websites. The Acorn would run generally from $40 to $90 at the very high end per shirt, allowing for about 2.5m/shirt (or 3.5m of the 90cm stuff). Bonfanti starts at around $80 and goes up to around $140 for the same amounts.

    Ascot Chang's CMT rate is $110 flat.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2014


  11. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I assume that's the HK CMT price?
     


  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    $USD. But yes, I deal with a HK branch.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2014


  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014


  14. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Is this for MTM shirts? What is the best way to get measured short of going to HK?
     


  15. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I'm guessing you need to go to HK - the NYC / LA Ascot Chang stores charge $210 for CMT.
     


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