Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Nice wiki search - not sure why you're keen to start a pissing match here.

    FWIW, Moxon also has a (great) rebadged Loro Piana book that many UK tailors have. Priced similarly to cloth from Lesser etc. That is the one I was referring too.

    Dopey - Butt of Lewis' quality is excellent (I have two of their Harris tweeds made up) - I think JRD was referring to the scale of the operation.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Im not trying to start a pissing match here.

    I made the list for my own CMT fabric searches, and intentially dropped Moxon because they don't have stuff that I'm interested in. I literally pasted the existing list I had.

    As you said, I'm focusing on the big, trustworthy mills here
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014


  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Why you guys think Burley is a untrustworthy brand? I have a few of their flannels and semi milled worsted and is quiet happy with it.....

    Is there any range you will put a warning flag? I am considering to get their tonik mohair at some point...or should I just stick to the more expensive Dormeuil?
     


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Can anyone recommend a "bombproof" birdseye fabric like the one JefferyD talked about in this post?

    Probably a lot of them out there, just curious

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Super 150s

     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014


  5. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Lesser 16oz, 13oz, and smiths steadfast are all solid "bombproof" cloth that offer very nice birdseyes that have a very "neat" pattern, the lumbs gb is very nice and has soft hand, but not as tough as the lesser 16 or 13
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014


  6. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Most of the companies mentioned above are merchants not mills, e.g.Harrison's of Edinburgh, Harrison's (Burley), although some like Scabal own mills that are used for some of their production. Notwithstanding your Wiki quote, Moxon, which operates a mill that also weaves Hield's fabrics, produces some of the best fabric I have ever used. It's just hard to get and very expensive. For those who are interested, however, there are several lengths of 6 ply 120's and cashmere in a silver/ Gray pattern for sale at a reasonable price on eBay uk. It's a fantastic cloth. It is very heavy at over 500 grams per meter and has real guts but has a soft hand.
     


  7. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Are you sure that Moxon is selling Lori Piana fabrics under its own name? My understanding is that Moxon produces all of its own fabric.
     




  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Here's my Italian list. What can I add?

    (Again, I don't distinguish between mills/merchants)



    • Cacciopoli
    • Carlo Barbera / Kiton
    • Carnet
    • Drapers
    • Kemp and Hewitt (UK distributor)
    ○ Ariston
    ○ Zegna
    ○ Escorial​
    • Loro Piana
    • Marzotto
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014


  9. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    If you are interested in mohair, you should consider Halstead, which produces mohair fabrics for many of the big names.
     


  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I notice you can't see their inventory online. Too bad.

    What merchants do they make for?
     


  11. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Among others, Scabal, Gorina and Lesser, when Lesser was selling mohair fabrics
     


  12. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Sounds strange to me also because Moxon try to compete with Loro Piana at auctions where the highest micron merino wool is sold
     


  13. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    In terms of merchant/mill offering, both Arsiton and Drapers offer some of Carlo Barbera fabrics in their bunches.

    Caccioppoli offers Guabello fabrics (Marzotto group) as well as VBC, Loro Piana, Solbiati etc
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014


  14. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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