Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    Sounds like one way to help ensure success would be to commission your first from Despos!
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I know this is going to be thrown out by many members here.

    Basically, I am in need for a good black suit for formal and evening wear. Can anyone recommend a good choice?

    I am looking for something around 11-12oz all wool, minimum crease and durable, and it has to be proper dark black.
     


  3. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    RTW or a tailor or cloth?

    Anyway, my first tailor did a fine job and I ended up getting another 4 from him in the next month. First suit was a DB navy linen suit that I'd been searching for OTR for ages but never found.
     


  4. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    My first commission was great. I'd factor in some things, though: I guess I'm easy to fit and only have one physical "quirk" that prompted me to go bespoke: big chest and shoulders and an otherwise slim frame. OTR usually has the armholes and sleeves too big and the collar too generous. I also wanted a three piece, but that's more of a design issue...

    Your posts in the various picture threads usually look good (to me), so I'd contemplate how much better a bespoke suit would fit you.
     


  5. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    Starting to build my summer wardrobe, looking to have around 8-10 odd jackets made (maybe few full suits), just looking at summer fabrics, what are peoples opinion of these 3 fabrics, they're combination of linen/cotton/wool/silk/cashmere

    Thinking top blue, odd jakcet, really not sure on middle, not usually my bag but my experiment, and bottom blue maybe a jacket. What you guys think?

    [​IMG]
     


  6. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    I don't like any of them, but the bottom one is the only passable one. Have you already got several solid linen suits/jackets? I would first make solid linen suits in french navy, brown, tan, and cream.
     


  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    The top one is quite dark. I'd sooner see that motif as a more dressy odd jacket for mid-season weather. The middle one is just too busy for me. I like PoW checks, but I like them in crisp, relatively simple varieties. This is just too much of a riot. The bottom one is very light. Good fun if you live in Italy, but perhaps somewhat limiting the versatility.

    If you want to build up your summer odd jacket wardrobe, I'd suggest:
    - A lighter-than-navy blue fresco jacket, for dressier occasions
    - A tan or tobacco brown linen suit, where you can wear the coat separately
    - A jacket from something like the Harrison Mirage bunch, for when you want a bit more pizzazz.
     


  8. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    I have around 30-40 summer jackets, I think I have most of the plains covered. Thinking the top blue one for night time, bars etc. The reason I am showing these fabrics especially is because I was offered them for virtually nothing
     


  9. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    30-40 summer jackets is not what I'd understand by starting to build a summer wardrobe. Also, generally, when I see fabrics being sold at very low, there's a good reason for it.
     


  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Starting to build my summer wardrobe, looking to have around 8-10 odd jackets made (maybe few full suits), just looking at summer fabrics, what are peoples opinion of these 3 fabrics, they're combination of linen/cotton/wool/silk/cashmere Thinking top blue, odd jakcet, really not sure on middle, not usually my bag but my experiment, and bottom blue maybe a jacket. What you guys think? [​IMG] If your lifestyle supports the bottom one, it is awesome for a summer jacket.
     


  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Smith has great black Barthea in their formal wear collection in a variety of weights. In general, look in the formal wear books. Just about everyone has them. I know Lesser and H&S also do.
     


  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Barathea is the go-to for dinner jackets, but might add911 be looking for a lounge suit? Not sure where to go in that case. Lessers and Smith both have 11oz books, which should each have a variety of blacks.

    Although it's not totally bulletproof, I have a herringbone Oxford grey from the Lesser 120s/cashmere book. It makes a good dressy but not Formal DB suit. There may be a pure black herringbone as part of that collection, which would add a little spice to an otherwise boring color.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2014


  13. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    Sorry, I meant my 2014 wardrobe, I update yearly.

    Ill get the bottom one, my lifestyle supports it, I must have around 3-4 colours around that, but I like the blotchy linen effect on this one.

    Does no one think the top one would look good at night with cream chinos?
     


  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You have the correct order, I think. The navy is safe, if a bit unremarkable. The light blue is less useful, but could be a great summer jacket in the right situation. For tan checks, there are other, more tasteful options. Just above was a post on Hunt & Winterbotham Twister. There are also Solway and Glorious 12th, for starters. If you choose well, you'll get more than a year's use out of all of these.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2014


  15. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    If that situation called for white or dove grey pants.
     


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