Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dopey]



We aren't talking specifically about those cloths, we are talking about flannels in general with Despos. I've used tailors just as acclaimed as Despos, who have made me flannel sports coats, now what do you say, sir? Only on style forum, would you read the above paragraph, advocating less use of reason and logic when making decisions I'll repeat what I said many pages ago: if you like the look of it there is nothing inherently wrong with flannels, or those POW check, but this is my opinion of course, YMMV I don't wear loud suits, these are much more appropriate POW designs for suitings, in my opinion of course, you are free to wear what you desire: And this is my final fit of my new horrible flannel odd jacket (although everyone who's seen it off styleforum absolutely loves it ) , it needs buttons and pressing, and I wore a jumper underneath so is a little tight I spoke with my friend just after he finished the beautiful lapel buttonhole, and passed the message that he is wrong to be working on a flannel odd coat, his and mine response: a good laugh. I know how much you love your logical fallacies (I suggest you read up on them, to improve your debating skills), but he also has been making coats around same time as Despos. I'll repeat my sentiment, if it looks good, and feels good, wear it, that is the purpose of well made clothing.

That sport coat really does look like suiting, but if it makes you happy to wear it that way, then you have found happiness. I don't much care for the styling, particularly the lapel shape and over-high notch but there are other elements of the cut that I do like. The tailoring itself looks very good (no-collar).

 

[tcbrgs]

In all seriousness though, here's why those patterns look bad as odd jackets:

1. They look like they could be orphaned suit jackets. This is one of the most egregious mistakes in all of men's clothing.
2. Odd jackets are casual by definition. They should look casual, they should be hard-wearing, they should be heavier in weight, coarser, more rustic, and bolder in pattern than suiting. The special exception is the navy blazer.
3. Grey flannel trousers are the quintessential trouser to wear with an odd jacket. Therefore all of your odd jackets should contrast greatly with grey flannel.

Ok great

1) It would really depend on what you wear as suits, I don't see many loud POW suits in the city. And by definition we arguing about the loudness and size of pattern, on an already loud, large pattern. Perhaps my cut off on what I personally like is different from yours, who will be different than the next person? It's a lot down to personal taste, once you know what you're doing it's fine

2) Why should they be more rustic and coarser? And why is navy the exception? What should I do with all my 100% cashmere jackets? Or my vicuna ones? I assure you these are not coarse, and they are relatively lighter

3) This makes sense, don't pair your grey trousers with your similar but different jackets. What about the times I don't wear grey flannels, and wear jeans, different coloured trousers and chinos?

The point I'm making, perhaps contrary to what others are arguing, is that style can be more personal then the absolutes some people are pushing.

 

[dopey]

If your personal style is to wear suitings as sport coats, run with it. You have a nice headstart.

 

[tcbrgs]

That sport coat really does look like suiting, but if it makes you happy to wear it that way, then you have found happiness. I don't much care for the styling, particularly the lapel shape and over-high notch but there are other elements of the cut that I do like. The tailoring itself looks very good (no-collar).

Of course, and this is my point. I can assure you this cloth isn't intended to be used for trousers, it's double faced - too heavy (I've never seen a double faced cloth like this used in trousers before).

 

[tcbrgs]

If your personal style is to wear suitings as sport coats, run with it. You have a nice headstart.

Be sure to give me credit of the style in 40 years

 

[patrickBOOTH]

People are so weird...

 

[dopey]



Of course, and this is my point. I can assure you this cloth isn't intended to be used for trousers, it's double faced - too heavy (I've never seen a double faced cloth like this used in trousers before).

You are right, a double faced cloth is not intended for use as a suit - it is either sport coat or overcoat. And while I think the pattern is a bad choice for a sport coat, the manufacturer had people like you, and there are many, in mind. Manufacturers make stuff because they think people will buy them - tastes differ. In fact, trends are on your side and there is a kind of timidity creeping into sport coats. So you have that in your favor.

At this point, people have made their positions clear. I won't argue with you. But I will note that if you spend some time looking at examples of well-dressed men during the heyday of tailored clothes, you will see the clear distinction between suitings and coatings. It is not accidental. Whether you care or not is your business.

Be sure to give me credit of the style in 40 years

As I noted above, the trend is on your side. Eventually, that will function as black-tie.

 

[forex]



Ok great

1) It would really depend on what you wear as suits, I don't see many loud POW suits in the city. And by definition we arguing about the loudness and size of pattern, on an already loud, large pattern. Perhaps my cut off on what I personally like is different from yours, who will be different than the next person? It's a lot down to personal taste, once you know what you're doing it's fine

2) Why should they be more rustic and coarser? And why is navy the exception? What should I do with all my 100% cashmere jackets? Or my vicuna ones? I assure you these are not coarse, and they are relatively lighter

3) This makes sense, don't pair your grey trousers with your similar but different jackets. What about the times I don't wear grey flannels, and wear jeans, different coloured trousers and chinos?

The point I'm making, perhaps contrary to what others are arguing, is that style can be more personal then the absolutes some people are pushing.

You are most likely missing the main concept here, just because it is to your liking and your personal style doesn't make it look good. I think that a lot of people have commented that the fabrics you have chosen do not look good as sport coats. Does it mean you should not wear them? Of course not, as I said, it is your money and clothing so you can wear whatever you want. What people are arguing here is that those fabrics are usually reserved as suitings and you should use bolder patterns and fabrics that are woven as sport coatings. Again, this doesn't mean that someone can't wear his suit coat as an add coat, it just doesn't look good.
Also, on point #3 above, you can certainly wear sport coats with odd pants other than flannel but the point was that if your sport coat doesn't look good with gray flannel pants (the most neutral color), chances are your choice of fabric wasn't right/great.

 

[fassbinder]



@fassbinder how so?

in both photos you posted of jackets you are wearing, your collar looks loose and it appears to be gaping on at least one of the sides. it would probably appear worse if your shirts were buttoned and without a sweater. i would talk to your tailor about it.

 

[aportnoy]

Am I misremembering or didn't people go ga-ga over a similar cloth from London Lounge that was used for odd jackets? Be kind if I am wrong, I just turned 50 and might be suffering the attending symptoms of my advanced years.

 

[add911_11]



We aren't talking specifically about those cloths, we are talking about flannels in general with Despos. I've used tailors just as acclaimed as Despos, who have made me flannel sports coats, now what do you say, sir? Only on style forum, would you read the above paragraph, advocating less use of reason and logic when making decisions I'll repeat what I said many pages ago: if you like the look of it there is nothing inherently wrong with flannels, or those POW check, but this is my opinion of course, YMMV I don't wear loud suits, these are much more appropriate POW designs for suitings, in my opinion of course, you are free to wear what you desire: And this is my final fit of my new horrible flannel odd jacket (although everyone who's seen it off styleforum absolutely loves it ) , it needs buttons and pressing, and I wore a jumper underneath so is a little tight I spoke with my friend just after he finished the beautiful lapel buttonhole, and passed the message that he is wrong to be working on a flannel odd coat, his and mine response: a good laugh. I know how much you love your logical fallacies (I suggest you read up on them, to improve your debating skills), but he also has been making coats around same time as Despos. I'll repeat my sentiment, if it looks good, and feels good, wear it, that is the purpose of well made clothing.

I have a very different view here. I do find the fabric and the design to be an odd jacket material. It does looks quiet chunky and tweedy. Fit wise, except the slightly strange patch pocket and loose collar, I find it generally looks good. The high notch position looks alright and certainly not bad taste per se. If pair with a pair of dad jeans or olive/donkey/dark brown twill trousers, it will be a good look. I thought a dark glencheck is a well know jacketing fabric, no?

 

[tcbrgs]

I'll post a final picture of the jacket when finished within the week. To perhaps change conversation, here is my next jacketing, should get it in around 2 weeks, will upload pictures. It may offend some, as it's 100% cashmere, it isn't coarse, or heavy, so perhaps not to everyone's taste.

I actually purchased it after seeing so many tobacco coloured garments on this forum, not usually my taste :
)

 

[Concordia]



I'll post a final picture of the jacket when finished within the week. To perhaps change conversation, here is my next jacketing, should get it in around 2 weeks, will upload pictures. It may offend some, as it's 100% cashmere, it isn't coarse, or heavy, so perhaps not to everyone's taste. I actually purchased it after seeing so many tobacco coloured garments on this forum, not usually my taste : )

Definitely looks like half of a business suit. You should be ashamed.

 

[forex]



I'll post a final picture of the jacket when finished within the week. To perhaps change conversation, here is my next jacketing, should get it in around 2 weeks, will upload pictures. It may offend some, as it's 100% cashmere, it isn't coarse, or heavy, so perhaps not to everyone's taste. I actually purchased it after seeing so many tobacco coloured garments on this forum, not usually my taste : )

This looks fine, did you look at Harrison's Moonbeam bunch? I have a couple of those and like them, feel is cashmere like and even though it is a faux tweed, there are some interesting patterns.

 

[tcbrgs]

Yes I am a fan of both moonbeam and millionaire, great cloth