Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^re; the 10 oz fox flannel: there are at least two decent reviews in this thread. There is some wisdom on this board that 10 oz flannel is always a bad choice. I think that there are likely many, many variables that go into that and I'm more than happy to figure it out for myself. I love the heavier fox flannels but they don't make the birdseye in a heavier weight and I have a 14 ounce fox flannel suit and in NYC, it can only be worn during the coldest months.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014


  2. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Do you know how to get hands on H&S without paying a small fortune?
     


  3. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    not sure what prices you are thinking but I have an account and use them more than any other mill (although I only have accounts with 2-3 other mills), so I could get you what you want.
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    its hard to make a rule set in stone, although some people will but for the most part, the difference between a suiting cloth and a odd jacket comes down to texture and scale. Smaller scale, worsted or flannel fabrics are almost exclusively suitings. Tweeds, large scale patterns are almost exclusively odd jackets. Like everything else, there are exceptions. Solids such as fresco's, linens can be used as sprtcoats. Worsted faux tweeds are used as odd jackets. Tweeds are used in suits and so on. its one of those things that you learn with experience.
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Scabal, Noble Tweed book and Holland & Sherry has at least 5 or 6 books of tweed jacketing
     


  6. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    I'd love to hear how things go with it. I'm a fan of the Fox navy windowpane but the rumoured fragility of the 10oz flannels scares me.

    Would be happy to hear otherwise.
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's not a matter of what it looks like to your eyes. Broadly speaking, suit and jacket fabrics are two different things. The finer and less contrasting the pattern, the more appropriate it is for suiting, as opposed to jacketing. Also, the finer and smoother the cloth, the more appropriate for suiting.

    The glen plaids you've selected are as fine and small scale as glen plaids get. Hence, suiting. Flannel is also generally a suiting material. Hence, again, suiting.

    In fact, glen plaids are generally for suits, not jackets. Only the loudest and largest versions (and in tweed, not flannel) will make do for a jacket.


    See above. Fineness of the pattern and cloth.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014


  8. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    I'm also interested in something like this from a mill with a bit of character.

    Also, @Matthew, do you get much wear out of that donegal tweed jacket you (iirc) had made up a few years ago? I love donegal in theory, but I never see it made up and am a little wary of the stuff.

    Thanks.
     


  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, I get a ton of wear out of it. Why wary?
     


  10. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    Oh, it's just quite a rare cloth which might draw unwanted attention. I see a donegal jacket in the wild perhaps as little as 3 times to the year.

    It's not that I'm particularly self-concious, it's just that I think it might limit how often I wear it.

    But I'm glad to hear your wear it often, because it's probably going to be my next commission.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014


  11. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    I have had this English wool silk for some time. Got a suit made.


    Have another suit and a trench coat in similar fabric which has orange windowpanes.

    The shirt is a indigo on blue micrograph check.

    [​IMG]


    -
     


  12. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    I've worn my ~new ISAIA cashmere Donergal sportcoat once and have never gotten so many complements. So I don't think Donegal is in general poorly received. It is a subtle Donegal though. If you prefer to avoid attention altogether, there is always the navy blazer.
     


  13. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    Lol if it's not a matter of what looks good to my eye, then what should I wear? Clothes that look bad to mine and good to yours? And how do other peoples opinions count, if the majority agrees with me or you, who is correct?

    A lot of the rules you follow were made by people who at the time were probably breaking the rules.

    I don't think cloth choice or design on it's own mean anything. I can take most cloths (bar pins) and make it a 3 roll 2, with 2 patch and one welt, and it can be most of time worn as odd jacket.

    Here's 3 I've worn over weekend, with jeans or chinos and all received compliments. 2 are flannels (poss fox, don't remember). I have trousers for all but rarely wear them as a full suit as I find them quite loud, perfect for jackets :)

    I will post POW designs I find much more suitable for suits tomorrow

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  14. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    And this is my new double sided odd jacket, unlined - and it's a flannel. I love it but :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  15. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^tcbrgs - that looks great. who is the tailor?
     


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