Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Frank might have some left in his Brooklyn location. I have a lighter than navy herringbone he had a roll of there.
     


  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    Tailoring Question

    Is it possible to lower the gorge on an existing sportcoat? Assuming you have more of the same fabric, I'm thinking a tailor could re-cut the back of the collar and then move the lapel down a bit where the bottom half of the gorge is located.

    Is this possible? Despos? Anyone?
     


  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I'm sure there is a post somewhere on here maybe about 4 years ago of people asking if it is possible to raise the gorge on their jackets.
     


  4. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    I seem to recall that. Although I would think lowering a gorge would be a lot easier than raising a gorge. I could be totally wrong on that though.
     


  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    I'm afraid to ask this on the LL, so 'll ask here. Does anyone know where the LL mistral and brisa cloths stack up against h lesser golden bale? And what is so special about golden bale?
     


  6. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,590
    Likes Received:
    1,927
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    I am not aware of a Golden Bale hop sack weave in any weight so there is no sense comparing them.
     


  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    
    Well how does GB flannel compare to the LL flannel? Where does the LL fabric compare to other brands? H Lesser GB 31180 looks like hopsack, I'm holding a sample in my hands right now, can anyone give some insight?
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2014


  8. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,590
    Likes Received:
    1,927
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    I have one LL flannel, made by Fox. It is comparable in quality to other Fox flannels of similar weight - I have several that were part of a private run ordered from Fox similar to what the LL does. In general, the quality of the LL cloth is excellent, but the real draw, most of the time, is the patterns, which benefit from Alden's excellent taste. On the other hand, the Brisa hopsack I have is a nice color, but what is especially nice about it is the feel, and, as far as I am aware, there are no comparable versions in the standard distributor's books. I am not saying no one else makes a comparable hopsack. Someone might, but I don't know who it is.
    I understand some of the other runs, such as the cashmeres, are also of a quality not otherwise readily available, but I haven't tried those.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2014


  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    Thanks for the clarification on the LL fabric. Can anyone let me know what is so special about the Golden Bale?
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,114
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    You can. Requires a new collar that is longer. That is what the fold of cloth is for on the underside at both ends of the collar. The under collar has to be remade. Cannot use the existing collar.

    If the lapel buttonhole is cut thru you cannot change the location of the buttonhole. It will be closer to the top edge of the lapel than before.
     


  11. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Likes Received:
    89
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2009
    

    GB uses very fine soft threads, beautiful cloth, patterns are so precise and distinct. I prefer the regular stuff, GB is very expensive
     


  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    Thank you, so I take it this a suit fabric for special occasions and not hard wearing.
     


  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,365
    Likes Received:
    4,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    So you would need more of the original fabric? Or no? I don't understand the point about the buttonhole...why is it moving relative to the lapel?
     


  14. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,478
    Likes Received:
    1,722
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    

    The fleece for Golden Bale suppose to be hand selected from the best quality bales.

    I have 2 suits from the 11oz bunch Golden Bale that are more than 8 years and both have worn very well but I don't wear those suits everyday.
     


  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,590
    Likes Received:
    1,927
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    No. Just a very high quality. All else being equal, more durable than a similar weight and weave since the wool is in theory longer fibered. But durability is not the reason to choose it. All of mine are solids or near solids so I can't comment on the sharpness of patterns. GB has a very nice hand. Usually, that is not what I am looking for. But sometimes it is.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by