Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jrd617]

Just ordered 3 meters of this Harris Tweed for a jacket. (Callum Maclean)

Won't be able to wear it until next fall probably

http://www.buttoflewistextiles.co.uk/products.html

 

[Concordia]



Just ordered 3 meters of this Harris Tweed for a jacket. (Callum Maclean)

Won't be able to wear it until next fall probably

http://www.buttoflewistextiles.co.uk/products.html

That's single width cloth. Ask your tailor if that's enough.

 

[jrd617]



That's single width cloth. Ask your tailor if that's enough.

Didn't catch that. How many meters should I up the order by? Double?

I'm not a large guy, 40R, 5'10 180 lbs.

 

[Despos]

You will need 4 meters for a regular jacket. Get 4.5 if you are considering patch pockets

 

[Stugotes]

The place I'd like to try is a new operation and has very limited selection of cloth; how do I recognize Fresco by looking at it? I know how it looks like as a jacket, but I'm not sure about a small piece in a book. Is the weight any clue?

 

[Verniza]



The light-weight 3-ply Finmeresco is very good-- drapes a bit better than most of the Fresco options even if it might not breathe quite so well.

Both are better than the others in extreme heat/humidity.

I live in South East Asia so my vote will go to Minnis, then Finmeresco for durability. But for an all around cloth, I prefer Lesser

Thank you for your input guys. Looks like it will all boil down to what I prioritize.

Comfort in heat, durability, drape or a versatile cloth.

 

[TRINI]



The place I'd like to try is a new operation and has very limited selection of cloth; how do I recognize Fresco by looking at it? I know how it looks like as a jacket, but I'm not sure about a small piece in a book. Is the weight any clue?

Sorry if this sounds obvious but Fresco fabrics would be in a book marked Minnis Fresco.

If you mean open-weave cloth, then hold it up to the light.

 

[jrd617]



You will need 4 meters for a regular jacket. Get 4.5 if you are considering patch pockets

That's single width cloth. Ask your tailor if that's enough.

Thanks for setting me straight, @Despos and @Concordia! Rectified the amount with the seller.

 

[jrd617]

Can we talk sharkskin for a second?

I had associated the fabric with gangsters, 1960s loungewear, and the like. Shiny stuff made for Las Vegas at night. High silk content.

But I recently realized that are some more refined sharkskin fabrics that really just nicely-textured grey wool (no silk) that can be worn easily during the day. For instance, this one,


(13 oz Harrison's "Oyster" from Vox)

and this one

(Holland and Sherry Interbook from NMWA)

My question is how durable are these fabrics? Do they get shiny easily? (https://twitter.com/CGBCooper/status/421389156485718016)

Also, who else makes a particularly good sharkskin?

 

[TheFoo]

Lesser makes a fantastic sharkskin.

Sharkskin is not an inherently shiny fabric. The English makers tend to make a very traditional, dry sharkskin.

It's just a particular weave pattern, mixing two colors of yarns. No impact on durability.

 

[Concordia]

In addition to Lessers/Harrisons, look at Smiths (14oz Steadfast, and 13oz Botany).

 

[jrd617]

Thanks mafoo and concordia.

Here's another question. Would you take a nice mid-grey sharkskin over a mid-grey regular worsted? (Medium weight) A mid grey suit is a gap I need to fill in my wardrobe.

A good sharkskin seems more visually interesting. NMWA might have chosen to carry a sharkskin as its only mid grey suit for that reason.

 

[TheFoo]

I have a medium grey sharkskin suit coming in from Rubinacci. Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale. Awesome stuff.

To be clear, sharkskin is just form of worsted wool. It's just a different weave pattern, like herringbone or twill. I like it because it adds some color variegation without imposing a distinct pattern.

 

[jrd617]



I have a medium grey sharkskin suit coming in from Rubinacci. Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale. Awesome stuff.

Any of that floating around on the net or did you order direct through Rubinacci?

To be clear, sharkskin is just form of worsted wool. It's just a different weave pattern, like herringbone or twill. I like it because it adds some color variegation without imposing a distinct pattern.

Right, what I was getting at. Thanks for clarifying what it actually is. Helpful.

 

[TheFoo]



Any of that floating around on the net or did you order direct through Rubinacci?

You can order directly from Lesser, but most bespoke tailors should be able to get it for you.