Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014


  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,958
    Likes Received:
    656
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    
    That's single width cloth. Ask your tailor if that's enough.
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    Didn't catch that. How many meters should I up the order by? Double?

    I'm not a large guy, 40R, 5'10 180 lbs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,119
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    You will need 4 meters for a regular jacket. Get 4.5 if you are considering patch pockets
     


  5. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

    Messages:
    772
    Likes Received:
    185
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2012
    The place I'd like to try is a new operation and has very limited selection of cloth; how do I recognize Fresco by looking at it? I know how it looks like as a jacket, but I'm not sure about a small piece in a book. Is the weight any clue?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014


  6. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

    Messages:
    294
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    May 30, 2011
    



    Thank you for your input guys. Looks like it will all boil down to what I prioritize.

    Comfort in heat, durability, drape or a versatile cloth.
     


  7. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Likes Received:
    650
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    

    Sorry if this sounds obvious but Fresco fabrics would be in a book marked Minnis Fresco.

    If you mean open-weave cloth, then hold it up to the light.
     


  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    



    Thanks for setting me straight, @Despos and @Concordia! Rectified the amount with the seller.
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Can we talk sharkskin for a second?

    I had associated the fabric with gangsters, 1960s loungewear, and the like. Shiny stuff made for Las Vegas at night. High silk content.

    [​IMG]

    But I recently realized that are some more refined sharkskin fabrics that really just nicely-textured grey wool (no silk) that can be worn easily during the day. For instance, this one,


    (13 oz Harrison's "Oyster" from Vox)
    [​IMG]

    and this one

    (Holland and Sherry Interbook from NMWA)

    [​IMG]

    My question is how durable are these fabrics? Do they get shiny easily? (https://twitter.com/CGBCooper/status/421389156485718016)

    Also, who else makes a particularly good sharkskin?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Lesser makes a fantastic sharkskin.

    Sharkskin is not an inherently shiny fabric. The English makers tend to make a very traditional, dry sharkskin.

    It's just a particular weave pattern, mixing two colors of yarns. No impact on durability.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014


  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,958
    Likes Received:
    656
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    In addition to Lessers/Harrisons, look at Smiths (14oz Steadfast, and 13oz Botany).
     


  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Thanks mafoo and concordia.

    Here's another question. Would you take a nice mid-grey sharkskin over a mid-grey regular worsted? (Medium weight) A mid grey suit is a gap I need to fill in my wardrobe.

    A good sharkskin seems more visually interesting. NMWA might have chosen to carry a sharkskin as its only mid grey suit for that reason.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    I have a medium grey sharkskin suit coming in from Rubinacci. Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale. Awesome stuff.

    To be clear, sharkskin is just form of worsted wool. It's just a different weave pattern, like herringbone or twill. I like it because it adds some color variegation without imposing a distinct pattern.
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,747
    Likes Received:
    2,332
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    Any of that floating around on the net or did you order direct through Rubinacci?



    Right, what I was getting at. Thanks for clarifying what it actually is. Helpful.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    You can order directly from Lesser, but most bespoke tailors should be able to get it for you.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by