Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's single width cloth. Ask your tailor if that's enough.
     
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Didn't catch that. How many meters should I up the order by? Double?

    I'm not a large guy, 40R, 5'10 180 lbs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You will need 4 meters for a regular jacket. Get 4.5 if you are considering patch pockets
     
  5. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    The place I'd like to try is a new operation and has very limited selection of cloth; how do I recognize Fresco by looking at it? I know how it looks like as a jacket, but I'm not sure about a small piece in a book. Is the weight any clue?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  6. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

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    Thank you for your input guys. Looks like it will all boil down to what I prioritize.

    Comfort in heat, durability, drape or a versatile cloth.
     
  7. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Sorry if this sounds obvious but Fresco fabrics would be in a book marked Minnis Fresco.

    If you mean open-weave cloth, then hold it up to the light.
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Thanks for setting me straight, @Despos and @Concordia! Rectified the amount with the seller.
     
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Can we talk sharkskin for a second?

    I had associated the fabric with gangsters, 1960s loungewear, and the like. Shiny stuff made for Las Vegas at night. High silk content.

    [​IMG]

    But I recently realized that are some more refined sharkskin fabrics that really just nicely-textured grey wool (no silk) that can be worn easily during the day. For instance, this one,


    (13 oz Harrison's "Oyster" from Vox)
    [​IMG]

    and this one

    (Holland and Sherry Interbook from NMWA)

    [​IMG]

    My question is how durable are these fabrics? Do they get shiny easily? (https://twitter.com/CGBCooper/status/421389156485718016)

    Also, who else makes a particularly good sharkskin?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Lesser makes a fantastic sharkskin.

    Sharkskin is not an inherently shiny fabric. The English makers tend to make a very traditional, dry sharkskin.

    It's just a particular weave pattern, mixing two colors of yarns. No impact on durability.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In addition to Lessers/Harrisons, look at Smiths (14oz Steadfast, and 13oz Botany).
     
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Thanks mafoo and concordia.

    Here's another question. Would you take a nice mid-grey sharkskin over a mid-grey regular worsted? (Medium weight) A mid grey suit is a gap I need to fill in my wardrobe.

    A good sharkskin seems more visually interesting. NMWA might have chosen to carry a sharkskin as its only mid grey suit for that reason.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I have a medium grey sharkskin suit coming in from Rubinacci. Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale. Awesome stuff.

    To be clear, sharkskin is just form of worsted wool. It's just a different weave pattern, like herringbone or twill. I like it because it adds some color variegation without imposing a distinct pattern.
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Any of that floating around on the net or did you order direct through Rubinacci?



    Right, what I was getting at. Thanks for clarifying what it actually is. Helpful.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    You can order directly from Lesser, but most bespoke tailors should be able to get it for you.
     

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