Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[SartodiNapoli]

Puf this thing is brutal for me. As I am the pinstripe man

I got a lot of pinstripe suits,

Now starting pinstripe checks

.

A client got this, I should have taken it for me, brrr.

Which color do you like most for a next suiting ? i might have too much blues but this grey or blue? It´s blue, but picture made it look grey on the left.

Super 150s Carlo Barbera mohair milled for my Kiton fellas.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Me,

Got a mohair Summer in 130s from Pal Zileri. Awesome fresh stuff, but the fabric looses hairs all the time.

Doesn´t happens on other mills, but that Guabello has something special on it.

 

[dandy1]

Hi any recommendation for a Navy blue serge cloth from one of the English mills? I'm looking for something between 12-13 oz ideally.

Many thanks in advance

 

[lordsuperb]



Just picked up my completed Minnis 301 flannel DB yesterday. Thanks to everyone for their help in narrowing down the fabric.

Very nice, I would get some fuller trousers next time around.

 

[chobochobo]



I am having this grey windowpane cloth being made to a sport coat at the moment not 8 oz but very open weave 100% linen from Solbiati

Really nice, how did you get hold of that please?

Just picked up my completed Minnis 301 flannel DB yesterday. Thanks to everyone for their help in narrowing down the fabric.

That's almost like my RMCH 2012 charity suit, except I got patch pockets. Tiberias used LP sunset, which is superlux.

 

[tchoy]



Really nice, how did you get hold of that please?

Sent you a PM.

 

[Svenn]



On mohair I put strips of lining cut on the bias on both side of the seat seam to reinforce and share the stress on the seam.

You feel the snugness of this cloth as it has no give at all

Very good tip to know, many thanks.

If I may, and I think many of us venturing into the lightweights might want to know this, but do you use heavier or stiffer canvassing on your lighter summer cloths to compensate for their lightness? I got my completed suit back today, my first 8oz-er, and it kind of has a limp, sweater-y appearance; specifically the fronts splay out when not buttoned, creating vertical ripples around the armpit and down the fronts. The PG pic below is a mild example of the problem. I think I remember you saying once something to the effect that a jacket's fronts ought to stand out firm and rigid at almost where they would button, such that buttoning doesn't involve any pulling or tugging. Mine's the opposite. Is heavier canvassing and more pronounced waist darts in the canvassing the solution to this?

 

[Despos]

Don't change weight of hymo we use for making the canvass. Use the same hymo for different cloth weights. I buy the hymo that is the lightest weight with the most "spring" to it.

The problems you see in the photo and your suit are about the workmanship. The jacket in the photo has a short collar and is stressing the front edge. When you put mohair cloth onto the canvass you want to use a different tension of cloth over the canvass. Mohair is very hard and requires different techniques.

Don't think I would say anything like your comment about the front buttoning. The lapel/buttoning point should look natural and roll gracefully. Pliable not firm.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Sent you a PM.

Could you, please, share it with me too? Thanks.

 

[tchoy]



Could you, please, share it with me too? Thanks.

pm sent.

 

[Pliny]

anyone have a view (from experience) about the Fresco II 0546's appropriateness for business? The 511 is a nice mid-grey, but I think the 546 might stray into too lite territory i.e. so lite as to draw a lot of (the wrong kind of) attention to the wearer.



546

511

 

[Slickman]

511 is lighter IRL, great shade of light-mid grey. Quintessential business fabric for summer, I would go for that and/or 513 or some of the superlightweight stuff

 

[thirdman]



anyone have a view (from experience) about the Fresco II 0546's appropriateness for business? The 511 is a nice mid-grey, but I think the 546 might stray into too lite territory  i.e. so lite as to draw a lot of (the wrong kind of) attention to the wearer.

Here's a pair of pants in 546, it's a bad photo but it might give you a sense of how light it is. It's a great fabric but very light grey, especially for a full suit.

 

[Pliny]

511 is lighter IRL, great shade of light-mid grey. Quintessential business fabric for summer, I would go for that and/or 513 or some of the superlightweight stuff

thanks, I have a suit in 511.

I'm looking for something a little lighter in color and same weight - but not super-light gray

Here's a pair of pants in 546, it's a bad photo but it might give you a sense of how light it is. It's a great fabric but very light grey, especially for a full suit.

thank you kindly for the pic. I'm inclined to rely more on your stated judgement that it's too light. pity

 

[Slickman]

Check smiths finmeresco book, much larger range of colors at the 10oz weight