Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[archibaldleach]



You can get a 2-piece canvassed suit on a CMT basis for E800/E1,000 in Ireland.  I buy my cloth in 5m lengths to allow for mistakes, extra trousers, pattern-matching etc. so the savings on a length are obvious.  E40m vs £120/m [both VAT incl.] is a saving of E100 per metre or E500.

At those prices I can understand where you're coming from. I've noticed that when I buy things from MyTailor, a suit made with fabric from Lesser is generally around 1.5x the price of a suit made with fabric from say VBC. It is a noticeable difference and can impact decision-making when one either does not have or does not care to spend more than a certain amount on clothes.

On the other hand, someone buying a suit from Saville Row who is dropping perhaps 3,000 British Pounds may not notice an upcharge in fabric from 40 Pounds per meter to 120 Pounds per meter (ends up being an additional 400 Pounds on top of 3,000 Pounds so only a slight increase). When you consider that some tailors do promotions where they give you a lower price if you bring them LL cloth, it makes the decision easier.

 

[RogerC]

Lesser is around £60/m for the regular fabrics, and I'd imagine that MyTailor would order individual lengths as orders come in, rather than stock it, so shipping costs may apply as well. I don't know for how much VBC goes, but given that this is "standard" fabric, I'd imagine they'd have large quantities in stock. That's a couple of hundreds of dollars on top of a suit easily, even before markup.

 

[archibaldleach]



Lesser is around £60/m for the regular fabrics, and I'd imagine that MyTailor would order individual lengths as orders come in, rather than stock it, so shipping costs may apply as well. I don't know for how much VBC goes, but given that this is "standard" fabric, I'd imagine they'd have large quantities in stock. That's a couple of hundreds of dollars on top of a suit easily, even before markup.

No disagreements here. Just offering an example about how cloth pricing can end up being a very large component of the cost of a suit when labor is relatively inexpensive.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

So, I just went to see Frank to look at some Lesser 16 and he said he hasn't had that book in a long time. He called the merchant who said they stopped producing it, but can send a book marked with what they have left which is minimal. Anybody know what's up with that? Has it officially died? Does anybody have any left over navy fabric they'd be willing to sell?

 

[marcodalondra]



So, I just went to see Frank to look at some Lesser 16 and he said he hasn't had that book in a long time. He called the merchant who said they stopped producing it, but can send a book marked with what they have left which is minimal. Anybody know what's up with that? Has it officially died? Does anybody have any left over navy fabric they'd be willing to sell?

they still have the bunch 302 16oz on the website, although with only 25 fabris example

 

[poorsod]

Mine is the 29608 which I think is still available.

 

[Manton]

I tried to get a particular piece a while back and was told that it ran out. Nothing was being re-made. It's just being allowed to run out and when it's gone, it's gone.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Frank is getting some sample swatches of what is left, apparently a few basics.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Mine is the 29608 which I think is still available.

I think you recommended this to me a while back.

Was considering Harrisons 15oz that I saw in a book today if I can't find the Lesser, but I am holding out. It was pretty fuzzy and somewhat plain weave. It looked like flannel, but was a worsted, not a worsted flannel either. Frank called it "donkey cloth" which I think he made up, but it was very matte. Slickman recommended Smith's over Harrisons, but I actually didn't look at any Smiths while I was there.

 

[mactire]

I tried to get a particular piece a while back and was told that it ran out. Nothing was being re-made. It's just being allowed to run out and when it's gone, it's gone.

According to the Harrisons site the H. Lesser collections were being re-woven incl. the Golden Bale http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/news/2011/07/28/lumbs-golden-bale-rolls-in-.html

 

[marcodalondra]

From their forum, responding to a question regarding solid 16oz in April 2012:

"Regarding Lessers 16 oz we only at present carry the charcoal.29612 . This range will be looked at soon regarding re issue.Beautiful cloth for genuine cloth lovers"

Source: http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.pro...action=display&board=cloth&thread=6&page=1#10

 

[bertie]

I got a full sample set of what I presume is the new 16 oz Lesser earlier this year and ordered a grey POW and navy hopsack (i think anyway). As far as I know the fabric shown on the web site is all available.

 

[lordsuperb]

Hey guys whats a good fabric for Washington, DC summers? Would a 14 oz linen be too heavy, and what would be a good weight for a fresco to choose?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

8/9oz Minnis Fresco is perfect. I also like the Holland & Sherry Crispaire in the lighter weights.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I have some 8oz Scabal tropical plain weave that I love very much too. Very crisp, doesn't wrinkle easily. Kind of reminds me of the feel of Mohair. Cool wearing, but nothing like fresco.