1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,780
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    The lighter 3-ply flavor of Finmeresco handles differently from Fresco, and will be worth a look, depending on what colors you need.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  2. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    7,321
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    
    You are the best, Ed Morel. A popover is a great idea. Hmm. Not that you were speaking to me, but fwiw to others, I'll probably do an unlined spread collar w/ two pockets, each w/ a button, as I do for just about all casual shirts. Great for a travel shirt in hot weather, and it allows them to be worn w/ a sport coat if need be. But that'd all be compatible w/ a popover. Maybe I'll try it for that or the hemp stuff I posted earlier.

    Fwiw, I only have pants in the lightest weight fresco and I like them a lot. Mine are only a little over a year old, so I'm not sure they'll hold up well, but before buying them I read posts and/or got pm endorsements from folks like Manton and Will who'd had much more experience w/ them.

    Have you tried linen/wool blends? They wrinkle less than cotton and make great odd jackets. I had one made from a Zegna fabric that I was skittish about, but edmorel held my hand through that one too and I love it.

    Hemp or hemp blends might be an option, such as the one recommended earlier from Delfino. Ime, going back about 15 yrs w/ hemp shorts, it has all the benefits of linen but is noticeably less wrinkly and a little more durable.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Haha, I was kidding, but she turned into a nag, when I brought up getting botox to reduce sweating. "You'll end up with Lou Gehrig's!!!! You're not getting it!"
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I don't understand the hate on here for the light fresco. I love the stuff. I don't find it fragile at all. I've won several Air-Guitar competitions in mine.
     
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,650
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Air-guitar for sure. But aren't you a bit wrinkled after a judo competition in your light fresco?
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Meh, a good steam and press and I'm good again.
     
  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,650
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Joak aside. No hate for it, but given the choice between the three weights and based on my experience, I just wouldn't go for the lightweight again.

    Most underrated summer suiting IMO is light weight tropical wool (what Italian tailor call "Tasmanian"). We made a suit this season in a S130 from a Piccadilly tropical book and anyone who's touched it cannot help notice how soft and supple it is for a super lightweight cloth. Great hand and tailors well.

    Another thing the forum has been conditioned to look down on btw : supers. Nothing wrong with S120-140 cloths, especially for spring/summer weight.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
  8. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,672
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    I think everyone should wear Breamish year round.
     
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,591
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Have an overcoat's length of wheat-colored Donegal tweed from Molloy & Sons, and am half considering using it for a sport coat instead. Anyone have thoughts on the versatility of a SC in this light of a color? I think @Slewfoot turned his LL length into a SC (am stealing the photo below from him).

    My sense is that a wheat colored overcoat would be easier to wear, but I do wear SC more often. Just not sure how wearable a wheat SC would be.

    Any opinions would be appreciated.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
  10. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

    Messages:
    2,535
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2007
    Holland Sherry City of London Bunch (420 - 450 gms!)
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

    Messages:
    196
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2014
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    I am suspicious, but could be converted. Any recommendations?

    The only Minnis stuff in colors I like is in the 9-10 oz range. I'm going to order some swatches and see how I feel about it. I'm surprised to hear a plug for tropical wool, though. I have some for odd trousers, S110s from I can't recall where. They're light and hang well, but they're so tightly woven! I imagine S130s would be the same, if considerably more supple.
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    @dieworkwear

    The wheat-colored overcoat seems like an odd choice to me. Lighter colors on overcoats are precarious as it's a garment that attracts dirt. If you're going to have one, why not just have a camel hair polo? The wheat seems like a coat for someone who already has so many goddamn clothes that anything practical would just duplicate something he already has, but he wants to order something new anyway (I realize that this describes me and possibly many of you as well).

    A wheat sport coat doesn't seem quite so affected. I wouldn't see a guy wearing it and, just for the fact of him having a sport coat in the fabric think, "that guy must be buying lots of clothes so that he doesn't have to ever post the same outfit in WAYWRN twice." I don't think it's that hard to wear either, especially casually, as I imagine would be how you'd deploy it. I think it would look nice with moleskin or cotton trousers in a dull grayish-brown - a little browner than the ones in your last picture, at least given how they appear on my screen.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,334
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Stencil, I have some Scabal Tropical in 8oz. Fantastic, crisp, fabric, but it is also a very tight plain weave. Doesn't wear all that cool.
     
  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    Cacciopoli
    Zegna
    Drapers
    Schofield & Smith
     
    2 people like this.
  15. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    7,321
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    ^ + Loro Piana and maybe Ariston. Does Holland and Sherry make any?

    DWW, I really like the wheat tweed as a sportcoat. Would go great w/ grey flannels, blue jeans or grey jeans imo.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,547
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    That is some next level stuff right there, emptym

    #Upholstery

    :slayer:
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    See, I've always felt that tropical wool wears very warm because it doesn't breathe. I'm wearing a pair of pents today in a tropical wool (don't know the specific fabric, Howard Yount so probably some sort of VBC if I had to guess) and they wear much warmer than their weight would indicate. They look pretty good and drape decently, but theyre just a bit stifling, especially when it's humid.

    Could just be that I've never worn the good stuff. Still, the breathability of fresco or fresco-like fabrics is hard to beat.
     
  18. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Inclined to agree.

    But more importantly, holy smokes, that's some good looking fabric.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  19. Stencil

    Stencil Senior member

    Messages:
    196
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2014
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    +1 It's nice as an overcoat, but I'd sooner have it as a SC.
     
  20. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,672
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    Got some vintage Zegna wool/cash ready to rock for an overcoat, really nice cafe au lait color.

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by