Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Finally got around to take a fit pic.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Superb! Worth a full quote.
     
  3. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very nicely cut. Cheers!
     
  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I am sure they carry linen made by other mills as well, but Caccioppoli is the official distributor of Solbiati for Naples.
     
  5. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, that is lovely.:slayer:
     
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Good stuff, tchoy! Your tailor has your pattern down pretty well at this point.
     
  7. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    As expected, BNT does not disappoint; really nice jacket Tchoy!
     
  8. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I've had a few samples from W. Bill and was not very impressed. As you said, their linens were stiffer (not to my liking), I liked Irish Linen I've seen from Scabal and liked it a lot, it was soft and spongy. No idea where I can get it though, will most likely end up getting some W. Bill.
    How can I get samples of Naples linen?
     
  9. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    Why get your linen from W.Bill/Scabal unless its a custom pattern for their books? Why not go direct to source? John England will be the softer linen, and Ulster Weavers will be the firmer linen you speak off.
     
  10. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Thank you, I will try both of them. Do they sell direct to customers, any idea?
     
  11. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    I'd have to disagree. Although there is nothing wrong with the jacket, there can certainly be improvements on the pattern, specifically around the chest/shoulder area. Seems he has a drop unaccounted for on the right, and something going on at top of left chest (possibly fwd shoulders), leaving a not very clean chest. The cloth looks heavy which is just helping to hide the issues
     
  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I think you're looking into too much minutia from a split second photograph. Any of those things would be barely - if at all - discernible in real life. It's hard enough to notice even in the photograph. I do see what you are referring to, but I just view that as added drape for added comfort.
     
  13. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    As far as I know, call/email and I'm sure they'll help
     
  14. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I have a jacket made from scabal's "pure linen" book, its a great cloth, but at half width it is extremely expensive, and an italian tailor will be able to source it at a lower price.


    WBill and Cacciopolli exist for a reason, I would not try to circumvent them when you won't be able to tell whether the stuff sold direct is made to the same specifications. Wbill and cacciopollis offerings are good the way they are, and are priced modestly, especially through tailors that have relationships. It all just comes down to which you prefer, irish or italian linen
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I think tchoy could use a wider lapel with a little more belly. They look a bit skimpy for the fullness of the coat.
     

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