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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    FWIW, I've avoided plastic garment bags because certain plastics degrades over time and can give off a gas that can damage cloth. If you're really, really worried about it, just put them in a breathable cloth garment bag, fold it up, and store it away. Just like you would with a suit. Personally, I just fold my cloth up and put it on top of a shelf in my closet. It's no more valuable than any of my other clothes.
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2014
  2. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    The light grey olive green thing has now been turned into a jacket by cove & co.. Felt really good when I tried it on.

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  3. burghler

    burghler Senior member

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    Any recommendations for a grey Donegal tweed in overcoat weight (22oz+)? I like this one https://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyandsons/6792094297/ but would prefer it a little heavier. Thoughts on wool lining for additional warmth if there aren't any heavier options available? Thanks.
     
  4. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Does anyone know how cool a14 oz linen suit will wear in 85+ degree summer?
     
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    When it's 90+ and humid, I find my 11 oz linen suit gets uncomfortable. It's okay at up to 85 degrees and moderate humidity. I imagine 14 oz would be a bit worse. Do you have experience with linen suits / jackets of lighter weight to gauge your heat / humidity tolerance?
     
  6. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    Sitting in the shade, fine; walking in the sun, not so nice. Dew point and wind speed will factor in as well.
     
  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I've worn linen shirts and have still been relatively hot. I have never owned a linen suit/jacket and don't wear suits in the summer. I was looking to change it up and purchase a bolt of fabric. I live in the DC area where the summer humidity is no fun. What exactly is linen good for and is any fabric for weather over 85 degrees worth wearing?
     
  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Well, everyone has their own tolerance for wearing jackets in hot weather. At some point, however, you are going to be hot and uncomfortable wearing a jacket when the heat and humidity are particularly bad. It just can't be helped.

    A linen jacket is going to wear cooler than a worsted wool jacket in a comparable weight. I much prefer my 11 oz linen suit to any 10 oz worsted I own. The linen gets uncomfortable for me in 90 degree plus weather with humidity, while the worsted probably gets uncomfortable at around 80 degree weather that is humid, so there's a range where linen is still reasonably comfortable when worsted isn't. I happen to think 10-11 oz is a good range for linen (much lighter and the wrinkling is even worse, much heavier kind of defeats the purpose of linen).

    If a suit is necessary in warm weather, I like Fresco (or another open weave wool) in 9-10 oz, linen in 10-11 oz and wool / linen blends in 9-10 oz. I had a sport coat in tropical weight wool (around 8oz) and find that the increased breathability of the Fresco, linen and wool / linen makes them cooler wearing than slightly lighter weight fabrics without the open weave.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you're going from one office building to another, with the occasional cab, it's not too bad. Not that anything is good, but linen will be better than anything else, especially when humidity is taken into account. I've survived a few day trips to the furnace of NY in that rig-- with a linen shirt underneath, of course. Fine cotton would just get soaked. Hitchcock's soft tailoring and more or less unlined body also helped.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  10. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Not cool at all, you're better off with the lightest weight fresco, but at 85+ theres no difference what cloth you are wearing, you will be hot, and if its humid forget about it
     
  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Oh, there is still a difference. There are many degrees of discomfort. But I hear what you are saying and agree I think (at some point, wearing a jacket is going to suck regardless of the fabric).
     
  12. gng1962

    gng1962 Member

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    I was shopping for a 3 season suit fabric and came across Kirgyz White a beautiful ultra smooth fabric. Will probably do a navy and a light grey suit. Any views? Has anyone made a suit with it? Thank you!
     
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The thing is you can't get away from the humidity. You can be completely naked in the shade, but if it is humid you will be uncomfortable. My experience tells me that when the Dew Point gets over about 63, life sucks.
     
  14. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Senior member

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    Does anyone have any recommendations on good books for "faux tweeds"? Looking for some tweed-like texture but in a lighter (10-12 oz) weight. Ideally in the hunt for a large scale herringbone or PoW for a spring/summer/fall odd jacket.
     
  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The two go-to faux tweed books are H&S Glorious Twelfth and Hardy Worsted Alsport. You may find what you want there
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    I guess you mean Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I have one of the gun clubs from the worsted alsport, the pattern and finish are nice, but the cloth is definitely nothing close to the heavier real tweeds out there. All in all it is a great fall/spring sport jacket.
     
  18. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    That herringbone at the top's a Moonbeam- it's a reasonably large scale hb. considered to be pretty tweedy . They've also got a blue-white one.

    then there's the Minnis Lambswool in about 12 oz. I haven't tried it, but pics look nice



    [​IMG]
     
  19. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Senior member

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    I like that hb a lot. Good coloring. This marks my "third sport coat" so-to-speak, so I'm looking for something with a bit of texture and visual interest that is also a bit of a chameleon -- can easily be paired with chinos, denim, mid-grey worsteds, etc. Herringbone seems like the most natural choice to fit that mold, though I'm still not sure whether a black/white, green or brown hb would be most versatile. At any rate, thanks for the suggestion.
    I'm not really in it for the feel of true tweed. Living in the south, any of the true tweeds see limited use at best (especially for someone like me who "runs hot"). As I said above, I'm more after something that has just a bit more visual interest and texture. TBH I'd love to find something in a cash/silk/wool/linen (or some combination therein) mix. However, for now, I'm trying to keep it simple while I decide on what weave/design/color is the most versatile.
     
  20. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are some nice herringbones in the Harrisons Mirage collection. Not on Harrisons' website, but pix are available at Merino Brothers of Hong Kong's site.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
    1 person likes this.

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