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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Eh, I don't necessarily agree, I know people here fetishize 20+oz fabrics but I've never had an issue with any fabric in the 10-12oz range. Yes, if you need to be perfectly creased every second of the day, a 11/12 oz flannel is not going to do that for you but I don't dress for perfection, I dress for comfort (and I run hot) and I don't like my clothes to look like I am wearing my "sunday best".
     


  2. naviC

    naviC Active Member

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    i agree with you about dressing for comfort..... in those weights of 10-12oz, how does do your creases tend to fall out? do they require frequent pressing or with sufficient rest they just disappear?
     


  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Distinguished Member

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    I'm with the heavy flannels camp here - I have 3 suits from 11oz flannels (2 Fox, 1 Drapers), and I wish I had gone heavier - they pill easily, don't hold a crease for very long, and need to be ironed quite frequently.
     


  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Distinguished Member

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    FWIW, the guys at Andersons contend that the quality of Breanish tweed has dropped markedly since they became much more commercial.
     


  5. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    I think the issue some people have with a lighterweight flannel is that it does not hold creases, it wears a bit like a sweatsuit. To me, that is not a fault but rather a charming characteristic. Wrinkles don't bother me, if you look at people like the Duke, Luciano Barbera etc, when they wear flannel, it looks like stuff that they've really worn, I don't know what weight their stuff is but I wear flannel like I wear linen, the wrinkles, bagging etc are part of the charm of the fabric, not something I actively try to avoid.
     


  6. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Pilling does not have to do with the weight.
     


  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Distinguished Member

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    ^ John Kent and Malcolm Plews would both disagree with you on that.
     


  8. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I.e., since A&S lost their exclusive. :crackup:
     


  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Distinguished Member

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    Maybe so, but I'm not entirely inclined to believe that's the reason. For one, Andersons never had an exclusive (I bought a Breanish from W&J back in 2007/08). Furthermore, in the same breath, they mentioned how much they liked Cacciopoli, but were unable to get their fabrics for the shop.
     


  10. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Distinguished Member

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    I remember that Raph never liked Breanish either - he said it was like a jersey fabric, and unsuitable for custom clothing. Ditto Despos.

    Maybe Breanish is just one of those famous-on-the-interwebs thingys.
     


  11. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Distinguished Member

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    Btw, anyone know what's up with the Butt of Lewis shop? They've been closed for quite a few months now.
     


  12. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    +1. I was told that it is a nightmare to tailor since it stretches so easily. Was also told the same thing about some of the spongier LL cloths (the brown houndstooth being a good example).
     


  13. TRINI

    TRINI Distinguished Member

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    The S-G of tweeds?
     


  14. dopey

    dopey Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    One English tailor I used refused to work with Breanish and sent back the two lengths I gave him. I had them made by another tailor and was told it was very difficult to work with - spongy and stretchy and hard to shape (and get to hold shape). That said, I love the two Breanish sport coats I have. They are the only tweed that do well in warmer weather and are super comfy. That said, it is not a crisp look.
    I would love to get another, as in that big glen check, for example. I am concerned if people are reporting a drop in quality - the lengths I had were bought about five years ago and from old stock (the burgundy/brown, for example, is supposedly no longer makable because the EU banned the dye http://www.styleforum.net/t/53633/working-with-breanish-tweed/0_50#post_830667). I suppose I should find someone who carries the current runs to see if the quality seems the same.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2013


  15. mactire

    mactire Senior Member

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    Jesus, what the hell is in the dye that they banned it? If you have a clipping a dyehouse should be able to match it.

    New liability from Marling & Evans:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013


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